Spock

iTrader: (2)

I know this has been discussed and I have searched but I have some specific questions. I am changing all 4 rotors and pad and while I was in there was going to repack the bearings. I am planning on using just solid rotors with hawk hps pads. I need to change the fronts to get through safety inspection and don't have the money or the need to put cross drilled or slotted rotors on. Figured someone was going to ask about the rotors. So I am wondering what seals I need to order to do the bearings correctly? Also any suggestions are welcome. thanks.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Well, I would imagine you are not taking the bearings all the way out and replacing, so I don't believe you will run into any seals unless you remove the whole hub. If you do completely remove the front hub there is a seal in the back of the hub. If its bad you can replace the seal with a stock replacement from mazdatrix.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=33-065A-FB01

Spock

iTrader: (2)

Never had to deal with repacking bearings before, should I remove the whole hub? I don't want to cut any corners I want to do it right. Which way is the best on these cars?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

You will not have to really remove the hub, just take out the bearings and clean them. Then repack and reassemble. Do one hub at a time so you put the bearings back in the same side and so you have an assembled unit in case you forget how it goes back together.

ramello

iTrader: (1)

as far as i know you cant really repack the rears? When you take them apart there is a seal that gets all fucked up and you cant buy just that seal....or at least thats what happened when i pressed my rear bearing out....

DT racer

Front brakes there are two bearings per hub, an inner and outer bearings. You have to take off the hub to get to the inside one. That is also where the seal is. I am not sure about the back but would believe there to be inner and outer as well. Usually a good cleaning in degreaser and a re-pac with new grease, a new seal and cotter pin and your good to go! Harder if you have to replace as you probably will want to get a shop to take out the bearing 'race' thats pressed into the hub (that the bearing rollers roll on) and insert the new ones for you.

Reading up on the internet or better yet a manual is a good idea to understand how to do it right including how to adjust the castle nut back on properly. (the nut you will have to pull the cotter pin out of and undo to get the hub off when you start). The work is not hard at all, just much better if you understand it well before you start. Good luck and enjoy the DYI satisfaction.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

If you run your car on the track that stupid front nut is forever coming loose and having to be re-tightened, as the castle nut cover thing allows some movement.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Right, forgot the fronts were two, the rear is a single sealed unit and does not need anything done to it. That seal in the rear you can get from mazdatrix.

Spock

iTrader: (2)

cool thanks for the info. I will look in the haynes manual and the guide in the FAQ section and see what it says. I have a better idea now on what needs to happen. Sounds like there is only one seal and that is the inner one that I need to worry about when I remove the hub.

Spock

iTrader: (2)

I have another question and trying to not open another thread. Does the 87 TII have the 4 piston calipers or the single? I know I could pull the wheel and look but if someone could give me a quick answer it would save me some time and I could order my brake pads today. Thanks. Oh yeah I searched and couldn't come up with the answer.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

All turbo cars had the 4 piston front calipers.

Spock

iTrader: (2)

thanks, thats what I thought but didn't want to order pads without knowing for sure. I hate being a noob

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Have someone push the car forward and look through the gaps in the wheel. The 4-piston aluminum caliper has Mazda on it and you can see the bumps on the casting under which the two outer pistons are hiding. edit: yes, the TII's are usually 4-piston, but like this you see for yourself.

RE: Wheel bearing repack...Take the hub off, then inner races, bearings and cage assemblies. Clean extremely well, then with brake cleaner, and dry out with air for good measure. Inspect the outer races for the inner and outer bearings, which are usually tight in the hubs. Inspect the bearings/cages and the outer races too. If anything is NOT well, replace bearings as an assembly (inner race, bearings/cage, outer race). Getting the outer races out is the tough part, where you have to put a rounded notch behind the outer race in the hub to be able to push the outer race out. edit: not as much work as it sounds...

Oh, and finally, check out my sig. or search for the FSM and stuff below.

Howru

iTrader: (25)

I just finished repacking the front bearings on my TII and noticed that the driver's outer race spins while in the hub. Does this mean it's new hub time or just replace the race?