DerangedHermit

I'm currently working on reliability "mods" for my car. My brake/hydraulic system probably needs an overhaul considering it's 19 years old. If I do it, I plan on doing my braking system and doing it right. My question is, what will I need to replace/fix?

Master cylinder?
Rotors?
Brake lines?
etc...

I'm also wondering how difficult of a job this is and what tools will be needed (beyond the standard tools). Some other threads have said it's a moderately hard job, but I couldn't find a thread of someone wanting to do EVERYTHING like I am. Keep in mind that I'm not the greatest mechanic. The hardest thing I've done is replace a transmission (took a while too).

Additional info: Currently my Parking Brake warning light is staying on all the time, even though my parking brake seems to be released. Also, my brakes feel spongy and sort of weak. I also have the 4 piston calipers if that makes a difference.

TiGeRC|aw

my parking light would turn on during corners and such, even though it was down. all i did was put more brake fluid to the max line and no more light.

JamesBong

If you are mechanically inclined, and can bleed a brake system, you can do this. It makes a big difference too. Here's what you want to get:
Master cylinder rebuild kit, or new master cylinder
New stainless steel braded brake lines
front and rear calliper rebuild kits.

This will make a huge improvement, if your brakes are feeling spongey. If you're into appearance as well, clean and paint your callipers while you have them off.

DerangedHermit

What's the likelihood that the caliper's will need replacing? What should I be looking for as far as signs that a new unit will be needed?

scheistermeister

also check out the condition of the hard brake lines. when i did a 5 lug swap i saw the condition of the metal lines and freaked out. they were so corroded that when i tried to unscrew them they pretty much disentegrated. its a pain in the ***, but (if needed) i would suggest replacing the hard lines with new stainless steel too. you can also buy rebuild kits for all the calipers if you just want a piece of mind that they are working and will continue to do so for a long time. and since you already have it all apart check the vacuum on the brake booster, also check and adjust the rod that come out of it. you could also rebuild the master cylander too. you might also want to check the proptioning valve since its all apart as well.

DerangedHermit

What kind of time frame am I looking at for this? I'm including the brake line replacement / cylinder rebuilds... etc. Basically everything.

Keep in mind I've never done this and am working alone. As for mechanically inclined... does effort count?


Recap:
Master Cylinder Rebuild
New Brake Lines
Caliper Rebuild Kits

Is that the same as what JamesBong mentioned?

AcidShock

iTrader: (49)

The braided lines he is referring to are replacements for the rubber, stock lines that go from the fender well to the caliper. These typically are in poor condition after 19 years or so and should be replaced with new ones or upgraded to the aforementioned stainless braided ones.

When I did the front brakes on my car I just bought rebuilt calipers instead of messing with rebuilding the old ones. Seemed easier to me but your mileage and money will vary. You will also want to inspect your rotors and make sure there is not major grooving, pitting, warping. In any case if you want peace of mind, take them to a brake shop and get them "turned."

Doing the brake system on our cars is not a big deal and does not require any kind of special tools that I recall. An impact gun is a boon though if you have frozen/stuck bolts. Any other questions feel free to IM me on AIM or post here.

DerangedHermit

Here's the parts I'm going to order:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=43-400D-FB02 - Master Cylinder
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=14526-DOT - SS Brake Lines
Decided not to do anything with the calipers/rotors until I inspect them. Unfortunately, I'm not with my car right now.

I have an 86 SE and I just wanted to double check if those are the right ones. So... I don't have AAS/ABS, but I do have the 4 piston front calipers?

Also, any other recommended stores (pm me if it's not allowed to "advertise" or something)? So far Mazdatrix has treated me good, but I don't have a lot of money to spend... ($136.06 + 84.00 = BOOOO!)

On a seperate note... I'm getting a clicking noise everytime the clutch pedal gets to a certain position. That being.. depressed about 1-2 inches. It happens on the way down and up. I hav't check it out yet though.

P.S. Thanks for the help Acid

DerangedHermit

Hate to be impatient, but I'd like to know so I can get the parts. I'm on fall break next week so it's the perfect time to work on my baby .

DerangedHermit

Well I ordered those 2. Hopefully they were the right ones. $220... ouch.

piscorpio

Brake stuff is not terribly difficult, but it can be really dirty and bolts can sometimes be incredibly stubborn, like Acid said. Replacing the rubber brake lines with stainless steel ones is shouldn't be too complicated at all. It might be a good idea to get a flare nut wrench, make sure you don't strip those little nuts on the brake lines. I bought a set for doing brake work on my cars, just because I like to be on the safe side. You wouldn't want to strip one of those nuts on the hard brake lines, I can't imagine it would be fun to fix or replace.

I've never had to replace the MC, so I can't comment on that. Just have plenty of PBlaster for those stubborn bolts, and a good supply of brake fluid on hand, and don't forget to bleed the lines well. Get some rubber gloves (like a surgeon), that brake fluid is nasty stuff.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

I wont reitterate everythign that has been said above, but I will issue you a word of warning. If those front rotors have been on there for a while...chances are that they are corroded and seized onto the hub. If that is the case, then it will be very, very, very difficult to get them off of the hub.
Just a heads-up.
-a

DerangedHermit

Well, I'm assuming they've been on for 19 years now. What would you suggest to help me take them off? Jigumbus wrench.. or what?

piscorpio

The usual weapons, lots of PBlaster, Wd-40, etc., a propane torch, and a BFH. After that, it could get ugly. I haven't even tried to really get my rotors off yet, I'm not looking forward to it.

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

if they are seized you may want to wait until you can get a set of new or resurfaced rotors, if it does get ugly you may end up destroying the rotors with a hammer to get them off

DerangedHermit

Do I need to take the rotors off in order to replace the lines?

piscorpio

No, you should be able to change the lines with the rotors still on. Only thing it would affect, is the amount of space you have to work with.

jl1rx7

iTrader: (1)

and with brake fluid, dont get any on your paint ot it will eat thru it FAST, if you have access to an impact wrench that will help with the bolts, since they are on real tight, and had 19 years of heat soaking, so they will be real hard to get off, also if you can get a large braker bar that helps if you dont have air tools good luck
\

Mason Rx7

I wouldn't worry about rebuilding the calipers. I don't know how hard it is to do a rebuild or how much it costs but if you bring in your old calipers as cores you can get calipers for $31 a piece at Napa.

piscorpio

Seriously? That is dirt cheap, is that for the four piston?

DerangedHermit

I do have a big breaker bar, so hopefully that will work. Apparently I don't need to take them off to do the job, so I won't unless I think I have to.