Brake proportioning valve install?
10-16-03, 02:39 PM
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Brake proportioning valve install?
How do I do it properly?
I want to replace the stock valve with a Wilwood adjustable model.
Summit racing #: WIL-260-2220
The problem is that the Wilwood only has one inlet and one outlet. The stock valve has two.
What's the best way to handle this?
Are the left and right rear brakes hydraulically seperated? If so, I would be removing a certain amount of safety by bridging them together, which I'd rather not to.
Should I get two valves? This seems like it could cause more problems than it might solve.
I want to replace the stock valve with a Wilwood adjustable model.
Summit racing #: WIL-260-2220
The problem is that the Wilwood only has one inlet and one outlet. The stock valve has two.
What's the best way to handle this?
Are the left and right rear brakes hydraulically seperated? If so, I would be removing a certain amount of safety by bridging them together, which I'd rather not to.
Should I get two valves? This seems like it could cause more problems than it might solve.
10-16-03, 03:30 PM
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The rear brakes are on a common line, and seperate just infront of the rear subframe. I can't picture the valve in my head, so I can't tell you how to connect the new one....Anyone have a picture?
10-16-03, 03:35 PM
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
The rear brakes are on a common line, and seperate just infront of the rear subframe. I can't picture the valve in my head, so I can't tell you how to connect the new one....Anyone have a picture?
The rear brakes are on a common line, and seperate just infront of the rear subframe. I can't picture the valve in my head, so I can't tell you how to connect the new one....Anyone have a picture?
I'll take another look under the hood and follow the lines to see for sure.
10-16-03, 03:46 PM
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You're right. My ghetto u-bolt fix for a supposedly leaking reservoir had obscured the big "F" and "R" next to the lines on the stock valve.
Duh..
Thanks.
Duh..
Thanks.
10-20-03, 03:39 PM
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Install done.
I modified the stock prop. valve bracket to hold the Wilwood unit by bending down the metal "finger" that keeps the stock unit from rotating and cutting it shorter.
I replaced the stock line from the R on the master cylinder with a custom 3/16" line with a metric double flare on one end and an american double flare on the other.
I replaced the front portion of the stock valve with a metric union.
I made a another line which connects to the R output of the stock valve, loops around and goes into the Wilwood valve. It was metric on one end and american on the other side. A metric union was used to join this line to the stock line, which goes to the back of the car.
Now I need somewhere slippery to adjust it.....
I modified the stock prop. valve bracket to hold the Wilwood unit by bending down the metal "finger" that keeps the stock unit from rotating and cutting it shorter.
I replaced the stock line from the R on the master cylinder with a custom 3/16" line with a metric double flare on one end and an american double flare on the other.
I replaced the front portion of the stock valve with a metric union.
I made a another line which connects to the R output of the stock valve, loops around and goes into the Wilwood valve. It was metric on one end and american on the other side. A metric union was used to join this line to the stock line, which goes to the back of the car.
Now I need somewhere slippery to adjust it.....
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