Brake pedal travel?
03-21-18, 08:50 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Brake pedal travel?
I replaced by brake master cylinder and my pedal travel changed.
I replaced the master for two reasons, age and pedal feel, I have been slowly going through and replacing parts etc.
1. Before changing the master cylinder I had good brakes but inconsistent pedal, while driving and braking most of the time the pedal travel would be about 2.5 - 3 inches and hold nice. About every 5th stop the pedal would either bleed down to about a 4 inch travel but still have good solid feel, or the pedal would just travel the longer distance and have good pedal/
brake feel on initial apply. To be clear the actual braking of the car was always fine just the pedal travel was different. I could panic stop and the brakes would lock up.
2. After replacing the master cylinder and flushing the brake fluid, I bench bleed the master and the bleed all 4 corners. Now the pedal travel is about 4 inches then I have good brake and pedal feel. It has been consistent since replacement. No actual brake fade or pedal loss and again I can panic stop and lock up all 4 wheels.
SHOULD I BE CONCERNED OR CHECK ANYTHING ELSE?
SHOULD I TRY TO ADJUST THE ROD FOR MASTER THE TO BRING THE PEDAL FEEL BACK UP?
OR IS THIS THE NORMAL FEEL AND I JUST GOT USE TO THE PEDAL FEEL BEING SO HIGH UP IN THE PEDAL THAT NOW I AM OVER THINKING IT?
side note I am replacing both front calipers and lines this weekend because when I first purchased the car about two years ago the driver front caliper was sticking but after exercising the caliper and putting new pads and rotors all the way around it has been fine.
ANY HELP OR ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT, THANK YOU.
I replaced the master for two reasons, age and pedal feel, I have been slowly going through and replacing parts etc.
1. Before changing the master cylinder I had good brakes but inconsistent pedal, while driving and braking most of the time the pedal travel would be about 2.5 - 3 inches and hold nice. About every 5th stop the pedal would either bleed down to about a 4 inch travel but still have good solid feel, or the pedal would just travel the longer distance and have good pedal/
brake feel on initial apply. To be clear the actual braking of the car was always fine just the pedal travel was different. I could panic stop and the brakes would lock up.
2. After replacing the master cylinder and flushing the brake fluid, I bench bleed the master and the bleed all 4 corners. Now the pedal travel is about 4 inches then I have good brake and pedal feel. It has been consistent since replacement. No actual brake fade or pedal loss and again I can panic stop and lock up all 4 wheels.
SHOULD I BE CONCERNED OR CHECK ANYTHING ELSE?
SHOULD I TRY TO ADJUST THE ROD FOR MASTER THE TO BRING THE PEDAL FEEL BACK UP?
OR IS THIS THE NORMAL FEEL AND I JUST GOT USE TO THE PEDAL FEEL BEING SO HIGH UP IN THE PEDAL THAT NOW I AM OVER THINKING IT?
side note I am replacing both front calipers and lines this weekend because when I first purchased the car about two years ago the driver front caliper was sticking but after exercising the caliper and putting new pads and rotors all the way around it has been fine.
ANY HELP OR ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT, THANK YOU.
03-21-18, 09:29 AM
#2
I would wait to adjust the pedal throw until you've changed the calipers you intend on changing and service the others. Ones everything is cleaned, lubed, and bled, adjust the pedal throw if the travel is abnormal. You may find it does not need adjustment.
03-21-18, 10:09 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I am leaning toward the not needing to be adjusted either. I will get the new calipers on the front and bled. I just replaced all pads and rotors, and lubed all parts about 3 months ago so the rears are fine as far as that goes. Its just weird that the pedal travel changed yet I still have good pedal feel.
03-21-18, 11:27 AM
#4
To adjust the pedal travel, drive the car and get the brakes up to operating temp...this is important to avoid drag later.
Then adjust so there is just a bit of freeplay before you feel the master cylinder start to move.
BTW, don't forget to adjust the brake light switch after you make these changes.
As for the amount of travel your pedal has...
Mazda seems to prefer a fairly long throw in this era, maybe their testers liked a "softer" feel than we're used to nowadays.
A larger booster and master cylinder can easily change this and is not hard to source and swap.
Then adjust so there is just a bit of freeplay before you feel the master cylinder start to move.
BTW, don't forget to adjust the brake light switch after you make these changes.
As for the amount of travel your pedal has...
Mazda seems to prefer a fairly long throw in this era, maybe their testers liked a "softer" feel than we're used to nowadays.
A larger booster and master cylinder can easily change this and is not hard to source and swap.
03-24-18, 04:06 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
New calipers amd lines installed on front. Brake pedal travel slightly better but not a huge difference. The feel is still consistent and have excellent breaking but it's nice to have the Peace of Mind of new hardware and components on the front.
03-24-18, 11:22 PM
#6
I had everything with my brakes replaced and I still had the long push. Level Zero Motorsports sells a firewall brace for 60 or 70 bucks. Bolts to the shock tower with existing bolt holes in 5 minutes. My pedal feel is short and firm. Worked like a champ. My best upgrade so far except the wheels and taillights of course.
03-25-18, 11:42 AM
#7
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if you're still playing around with this, you should try two things.
1. this one is really easy, so you should at least eyeball it, check the pedal to booster clearance, there should be a little play here, 0.030" maybe. if there is like an inch, you should do something, less than an inch, maybe leave it.
2. the booster to master cylinder clearance. the stock spec is 0 +/- about 0.010" its not the easiest thing to measure but i found my car was at about 0.060"! made a huge difference. i think this is likely why some FC's have nice pedals and some don't
1. this one is really easy, so you should at least eyeball it, check the pedal to booster clearance, there should be a little play here, 0.030" maybe. if there is like an inch, you should do something, less than an inch, maybe leave it.
2. the booster to master cylinder clearance. the stock spec is 0 +/- about 0.010" its not the easiest thing to measure but i found my car was at about 0.060"! made a huge difference. i think this is likely why some FC's have nice pedals and some don't
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03-26-18, 07:37 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
if you're still playing around with this, you should try two things.
1. this one is really easy, so you should at least eyeball it, check the pedal to booster clearance, there should be a little play here, 0.030" maybe. if there is like an inch, you should do something, less than an inch, maybe leave it.
2. the booster to master cylinder clearance. the stock spec is 0 +/- about 0.010" its not the easiest thing to measure but i found my car was at about 0.060"! made a huge difference. i think this is likely why some FC's have nice pedals and some don't
1. this one is really easy, so you should at least eyeball it, check the pedal to booster clearance, there should be a little play here, 0.030" maybe. if there is like an inch, you should do something, less than an inch, maybe leave it.
2. the booster to master cylinder clearance. the stock spec is 0 +/- about 0.010" its not the easiest thing to measure but i found my car was at about 0.060"! made a huge difference. i think this is likely why some FC's have nice pedals and some don't
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