Brake pad installation:
10-06-04, 04:23 PM
#1
Brake pad installation:
Hey, anyone know how hard it is to install brake pads? Ive done a whole lot of work myself, including drive shaft replacement and oil cooler replacement, but never any brake work. I would assume that its a peice of cake, but I have also learned that assumptions can be deadly. Think it'll be painfree enough for me to do? Thx
Sam
Sam
10-06-04, 04:30 PM
#2
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I think it should be pretty easy
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/changing-my-own-brakes-worth-331067/
It's gonna be my first time too.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/changing-my-own-brakes-worth-331067/
It's gonna be my first time too.
10-06-04, 05:48 PM
#5
Piece of cake. The Haynes manual has some really good suggestions on ways to do things.
Plus, they're disk brakes around. Wheee!
You'll want to get a big C-clamp to retract the front pistons. It works really well, and beats using the goofy spreader device the FSM suggests (and most people don't have).
I'd personally suggest opening the bleeder before you retract the pistons, to avoid sending cruddy fluid back up towards the master cylinder. You're going to be bleeding the system anyway, RIGHT?
The rear calipers have a slider pin that the caliper slides on. It is often really stiff. A hammer will be helpful here, and you'll want to take it out and regrease it so the calipers can slide properly. Also, winding the rear calipers in is a pain. There's a "brake cube" sold at parts stores that will help, but most people have been just fine with a big pair of needle nose pliers.
If you haven't replaced the brakes before, the anti-squeel shims are most likely toast. Mine were rusted through. They're not important. Get some of the spray anti-squeel compound at a parts store, and use it on the back side of the pads (NOT THE FRICTION SIDE). It's really sticky, but works just fine.
Em, that's about it. Follow the Haynes suggestions, and you'll be golden.
-=Russ=-
Plus, they're disk brakes around. Wheee!
You'll want to get a big C-clamp to retract the front pistons. It works really well, and beats using the goofy spreader device the FSM suggests (and most people don't have).
I'd personally suggest opening the bleeder before you retract the pistons, to avoid sending cruddy fluid back up towards the master cylinder. You're going to be bleeding the system anyway, RIGHT?
The rear calipers have a slider pin that the caliper slides on. It is often really stiff. A hammer will be helpful here, and you'll want to take it out and regrease it so the calipers can slide properly. Also, winding the rear calipers in is a pain. There's a "brake cube" sold at parts stores that will help, but most people have been just fine with a big pair of needle nose pliers.
If you haven't replaced the brakes before, the anti-squeel shims are most likely toast. Mine were rusted through. They're not important. Get some of the spray anti-squeel compound at a parts store, and use it on the back side of the pads (NOT THE FRICTION SIDE). It's really sticky, but works just fine.
Em, that's about it. Follow the Haynes suggestions, and you'll be golden.
-=Russ=-
10-06-04, 08:32 PM
#6
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yeah brakes are easy but can get hard, like i changed the brakes on a 1988 Audi 90 quattro. and you have to push the piston in, then turn it, then push, then turn, and so on. but i did it after a hour and i drove the car and it was a moral victory for me.
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