Brake Pad Install...am i missing something here?
08-27-02, 01:51 PM
#1
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Brake Pad Install...am i missing something here?
ok...before you ridicule me and say how dumb i am i need to know how to do this.
i have the Haynes manual but the pictures dont seem to match the brakes i have(except for the drawing). i know i have to push the piston back but how do i remove the brake pads? how do i remove the pad pins that hold the pads in place? is it me or is this caliper just one piece...not the typical "undo 2 bolts and remove top of caliper to get to the brake pads".
thanks in advance!
-jet-
i have the Haynes manual but the pictures dont seem to match the brakes i have(except for the drawing). i know i have to push the piston back but how do i remove the brake pads? how do i remove the pad pins that hold the pads in place? is it me or is this caliper just one piece...not the typical "undo 2 bolts and remove top of caliper to get to the brake pads".
thanks in advance!
-jet-
08-27-02, 02:14 PM
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thanks for the replies but...
well that's the thing...there is no top to take off. to be more specific i have a 1988 AE. BTW, 5 lug. i can see the pads and the little springs but i dont know how to take them out. these wereon the front brakes. i didnt even bother w/ the rears yet.
well that's the thing...there is no top to take off. to be more specific i have a 1988 AE. BTW, 5 lug. i can see the pads and the little springs but i dont know how to take them out. these wereon the front brakes. i didnt even bother w/ the rears yet.
08-27-02, 02:27 PM
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on the front brakes there is no need to pull the caliper off (unless you are changing the rotors). pull off those 2 metal springs, then pull out the 2 metal pins. the pads will slide right out the top. (or pry out 
) just remember where the metal springs go. (do one at a time so you can check the other)
if your calipers are good. you should be able to just slide the pistons (all 4) back into the caliper with a screwdriver pressing against the rotor. it it takes a lot of force or is not moving. stop! and you should really replace the calipers.
) just remember where the metal springs go. (do one at a time so you can check the other)if your calipers are good. you should be able to just slide the pistons (all 4) back into the caliper with a screwdriver pressing against the rotor. it it takes a lot of force or is not moving. stop! and you should really replace the calipers.
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08-27-02, 02:33 PM
#8
Originally posted by Scott 89t2
on the front brakes there is no need to pull the caliper off (unless you are changing the rotors). pull off those 2 metal springs, then pull out the 2 metal pins. the pads will slide right out the top. (or pry out ) just remember where the metal springs go. (do one at a time so you can check the other)
if your calipers are good. you should be able to just slide the pistons (all 4) back into the caliper with a screwdriver pressing against the rotor. it it takes a lot of force or is not moving. stop! and you should really replace the calipers.
on the front brakes there is no need to pull the caliper off (unless you are changing the rotors). pull off those 2 metal springs, then pull out the 2 metal pins. the pads will slide right out the top. (or pry out
) just remember where the metal springs go. (do one at a time so you can check the other)if your calipers are good. you should be able to just slide the pistons (all 4) back into the caliper with a screwdriver pressing against the rotor. it it takes a lot of force or is not moving. stop! and you should really replace the calipers.
My $.02
Rat
08-27-02, 02:35 PM
#9
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thanks for the info guys!!!
but i'm still unclear on how to remove the pad pins. you say just pull them out? ok, i'll try!!
but i'm still unclear on how to remove the pad pins. you say just pull them out? ok, i'll try!!
Last edited by jetfire76; 08-27-02 at 02:37 PM.
08-27-02, 03:00 PM
#10
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Originally posted by jetfire76
thanks for the info guys!!!
but i'm still unclear on how to remove the pad pins. you say just pull them out? ok, i'll try!!
thanks for the info guys!!!
but i'm still unclear on how to remove the pad pins. you say just pull them out? ok, i'll try!!
Use a screwdriver against the old pads to push the pistons in, pushing just one tends to make the other one extend out farther.
08-27-02, 03:04 PM
#11
Originally posted by Felix Wankel
Look on the fenderwell side of the caliper. There is a wire clip that holds the pins in. Remove the wire, then pull the pins out.
Use a screwdriver against the old pads to push the pistons in, pushing just one tends to make the other one extend out farther.
Look on the fenderwell side of the caliper. There is a wire clip that holds the pins in. Remove the wire, then pull the pins out.
Use a screwdriver against the old pads to push the pistons in, pushing just one tends to make the other one extend out farther.
08-27-02, 03:34 PM
#13
I figured, since i just did a 4-wheel brake job on mine...Question.. I didnt see any squealers on my pads or the calipers. Did Mazda design the brakes with no brake wear indacators? Seems kinda kooky to me.
There was alot of damage done to my rotors since the only indicator I got was a horrible grinding sound, by that time, the damage was already done.
Rat
There was alot of damage done to my rotors since the only indicator I got was a horrible grinding sound, by that time, the damage was already done.
Rat
08-28-02, 08:33 AM
#14
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what do you mean by "the piston must be turned in" for the rear brakes? i need to replace the rear pads as well.
thanks again in advance for indulging my ignorance!!
-jet-
thanks again in advance for indulging my ignorance!!
-jet-
08-28-02, 08:36 AM
#15
Super Newbie
You have to rotate the piston to retract it. It doesn't push in. Auto parts stores sell a little tool that you put on a 3/8 extension and use a ratchet to do this.
08-28-02, 09:26 AM
#17
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Originally posted by J-Rat
Removing the caliper is an better idea in my opinion, it gives you better access to everything and you can do a better assesment of the condition of the caliper.
My $.02
Rat
Removing the caliper is an better idea in my opinion, it gives you better access to everything and you can do a better assesment of the condition of the caliper.
My $.02
Rat
PaulC
08-28-02, 09:27 AM
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Jetfire,
Yeah, parts stores like Pep Boyz sell a tool that you chuck into a ratchet to turn the piston in. I tried needlenose, but ended up jamming one into my palm and decided that wasn't going to work
PaulC
Yeah, parts stores like Pep Boyz sell a tool that you chuck into a ratchet to turn the piston in. I tried needlenose, but ended up jamming one into my palm and decided that wasn't going to work
PaulC
08-28-02, 03:01 PM
#24
Super Newbie
Originally posted by Silkworm
Compared to 2 pins?!!!!!!!!
There's no reason to remove the caliper! Seriously.
PaulC
Compared to 2 pins?!!!!!!!!
There's no reason to remove the caliper! Seriously.
PaulC
08-28-02, 05:26 PM
#25
Rotary Freak
The rear calipers needs the tool to push the piston back in, or you can try a wrench for twisting the piston.
The clip springs on the front caliper can just be pulled off with pliers. I believe these V shaped springs are for disengaging the pads from the rotor when cruising. They actually dont seem necessary and may not even exist. They are a huge pain in the *** (for me) to put them back in.
The V spring is not the clip which holds the rods in place. Thats completely different.
The clip springs on the front caliper can just be pulled off with pliers. I believe these V shaped springs are for disengaging the pads from the rotor when cruising. They actually dont seem necessary and may not even exist. They are a huge pain in the *** (for me) to put them back in.
The V spring is not the clip which holds the rods in place. Thats completely different.