brake lights broke!
#1
brake lights broke!
my brake lights decided that they didnt want to live anymore. im having a hard time figuring it out. hopefully an electrical guru will show me the light. first thing i checked was the fuse, it was good. next i looked at the brake switch, it was still in its place and clicked like it should. i then pulled the plug on it and stuck my multimeter on it and it read just above 12v. so it at least has power to the switch. i jumped the connector thinking that it would light them up... nothing. i want to check the switch but i dont know what to turn my multi meter to to check, so thats my first question..
what setting do i put the multimeter on to test the brake switch?
as far as i know.. which isnt much when it comes to electrical... is that if it has power to the switch then jumping the switch would make them work if it was the switch... so my second question is..
where else should i look to find my problem?
oh yeah. the fuse i checked was the one labled "stop" located in the drivers kick panel.
any help would be great, thanks.
what setting do i put the multimeter on to test the brake switch?
as far as i know.. which isnt much when it comes to electrical... is that if it has power to the switch then jumping the switch would make them work if it was the switch... so my second question is..
where else should i look to find my problem?
oh yeah. the fuse i checked was the one labled "stop" located in the drivers kick panel.
any help would be great, thanks.
Last edited by stevensimon; 06-27-07 at 08:57 PM.
#2
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With the plug disconnected check the switch with an ohmeter or a buzzer. The switch should be open (no conductivity) when the peddle is in normal up position.
When you press the peddle the switch shorts (zero ohms). As you have 12 volts at the switch, and you connected a jumper across the plug terminals, and the lights did not light, look elsewhere. Like an open wire between the brake lights and the switch. You don't have a short as a short would have blown the fuse. put 12 volts at the stop lights. If they light you have an open wire. If they dont light you probably have a bad socket, or no ground. Have you checked the bulbs?????
When you press the peddle the switch shorts (zero ohms). As you have 12 volts at the switch, and you connected a jumper across the plug terminals, and the lights did not light, look elsewhere. Like an open wire between the brake lights and the switch. You don't have a short as a short would have blown the fuse. put 12 volts at the stop lights. If they light you have an open wire. If they dont light you probably have a bad socket, or no ground. Have you checked the bulbs?????
#4
sorry mark.. s4 86
oh and maven. what do i turn the multi meter to to test? its a radio shack multimeter
options are
DCV 500v-200v-20v-2v
OHM 2m-200k-20k-2k-200
>I- thats what it looks like but i dunno what it is
DCA 200ma-20ma-2ma
ACV 500v-200v
also i looked at the haynes wire diagram. i have no idea what im looking at. i can see the wire to the switch to the computer to the bulbs but i dont know what colors the wires are or what pin on the computer they are or how to test the computer.
thanks and sorry for my ignorance, im trying.
oh and maven. what do i turn the multi meter to to test? its a radio shack multimeter
options are
DCV 500v-200v-20v-2v
OHM 2m-200k-20k-2k-200
>I- thats what it looks like but i dunno what it is
DCA 200ma-20ma-2ma
ACV 500v-200v
also i looked at the haynes wire diagram. i have no idea what im looking at. i can see the wire to the switch to the computer to the bulbs but i dont know what colors the wires are or what pin on the computer they are or how to test the computer.
thanks and sorry for my ignorance, im trying.
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
check to see that both plugs on the BOTTOM of the CPU (body computer) are plugged in.
S4 models have the brake warning light sensor circuit there and since you are not seeing a warning light on the dash, it suggests that either the switch is bad (had it happen myself not too long ago on the vert) or the CPU is unplugged or bad
S4 models have the brake warning light sensor circuit there and since you are not seeing a warning light on the dash, it suggests that either the switch is bad (had it happen myself not too long ago on the vert) or the CPU is unplugged or bad
#6
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For testing with the battery connected, use the DCV setting on 20 Volts.
For testing without the battery connected use the Ohm scale on 200. The 200 Ohm scale is good for testing things like switches. They either read 0 Ohms for a switch that's closed (brake pedal pressed in) or 200 (no deflection of the needle) for a switch that is open. (Brake pedal out)
Other problems require the other settings on your meter but, simple testing of swtches, bulbs or sockets can be easily checked with the above settings.
For testing without the battery connected use the Ohm scale on 200. The 200 Ohm scale is good for testing things like switches. They either read 0 Ohms for a switch that's closed (brake pedal pressed in) or 200 (no deflection of the needle) for a switch that is open. (Brake pedal out)
Other problems require the other settings on your meter but, simple testing of swtches, bulbs or sockets can be easily checked with the above settings.
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