slomo85

iTrader: (8)

Well all is better now, sort of. A friend really helped me out big time with this. While I was on base in illinois last week, he finished it for me. He had to drill the two bolts securing the caliper to the hub out and retap. It took three days to get the tap and new bolts from fastenal. He retapped the bleader screw and used a bigger one. Now all together, and it will hold up to get me to illinois at least.

The passenger inner pistons never went in, and I don't know how well that new bleader will hold up. SO I was thinking of re-building the driver side and a junk yard passenger side. I have heard re-build kits you can get with new pistons for about 35, is this true? And is it worth it? I fear asking the dealer for anything anymore, as they don't really hesitate to charge 10times and + what it's worth.

Now to tackle the rears at the shop over here with proper tools...later

Ps: Has anyone ever maxed out a 20 ton press to get the rotor off of the hub? It sounds like a shotgun when it finalla lets go though, and there was a hell of a thick layer of oxidation on the outer ring where it met the rotor. I ground it down, and put anti-seize between them now though, that should stop it...later

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

I didn't know there was locktite on these bolts, hmm...

And good luck finding one of these cars in a junkyard, I'd probabally have a better chance getting a parts car from california or something...lateR

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

damn, nothing but nightmares with this incredible oxidation. I finally get the car down here to the base and tried to do the rears sunday, I spent another 9 hours on it, and this is what happened:

Both rear calipers came off rather easy, great! Also, the brass bolts came right out with easy outs, unlike the front ones that were a bit of a battle. Now to remove the caliper mount as well ehh?? Wrong. The passenger rear top caliper mount bolts head snapped off. (I had been dousing them w/pb blaster a half hour continuosly as a precaution too) discouraged I tried the drivers side rear, and it came right out after some breaker bar encouragement;D. Then the bottom bolt snapped off as well. The mount would spin, so the threads were not stuck, the bolt was just seized in the hole!! JUST LIKE WHAT HAPPENED IN THE FRONTS! So I grinded a notch in the rotor to get it off.

I drilled the bolt out, and got the mount off, but have still to drill the rest out of the hub's mounting hole. This is what takes me so much time. Does anybody know of a drill bit that can get this do this faster for me? It usually takes me about 3-4 hours a bolt using conventional bits.

Does any body know the size of the rear caliper mount bolts? They are not on the size chart in the archives. I tried a few places around here, but there is not a selection from stores here as there was in green bay. I can have a friend get me some and have them shipped here from there if I can tell him the size.

Does anyone know?

So I had to put it back together quick before they closed, and drive it home, missing a bolt in the mount, ohh well, it's only 1.5 miles, but I still didn't go over 20mph.

By the way, I am using new hawk hps pads, and they won't fit with out taking one of the metal clips out, any one know what the deal is? Who is using, or has used them? What did you do?

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

sorry, double post...

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

Nobody knows the size of the bolts for the rear caliper mounts? That's all I need to figure out as of right now, and if anyone knows of a special hardened drill bit that can be had to drill these out with, because I think I will have to do both on the passenger side bolts...later

Gene

iTrader: (1)

When you're drilling tough metal, use the most expensive crazy bit they have at the store. Also, use cutting oil. (not just any old oil, special oil for metal drilling and cutting) Your drilling will go like 10x faster and you won't consume drill bits as fast.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

argh goofy forum

Fitness Stain

i had that same problem ... garfinkle had to use his press, and i wanna say it was more than a 20 ton press .... maybe 40 or 50 ?

it took him about 2 hours to get the rotor off the hub ... and man did it make a horrible noise

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

I found the part number for them, it's: fb01-26121a. That's what the dealer told me anyways. They charge 5.75$ per bolt, hahaha. But I still can't find out what size they are, ahhh, anyone?...later

FredK

It can be a hassle to find the correct metric bolt, even after you know the size. If they have the correct diameter and pitch, they don't have the right length or grade. I just went over my brakes. Couple of stuck calipers and no pads. Got some seals and repacked the bearings. Let the penetrating oil take its sweet time soaking in. Rotors turned. Pistons cleaned up. Should have replaced the flex lines, but things working nice again.

Calipers not opening - got to spin the rear pistons to retract them??
Drill out bolts - are you center drilling them??
- learn how to sharpen your drills??
- don't spin them in the hole without cutting, you work-harden the bolt.
Bolt size - Pay Mazda 5.75, a portion of the proceeds will go to R&D in the rotary program
FK

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

I can find then if I know the correct size, it just takes my fastner store a few days to special order them. I have had no problems w/the calipers themselves yet, just the bolts holding then to the hubs, although I allready ordered re-build kits for all of them, and ordered ss brake lines.

About sharpening the bits. This is a NAVY base automotive skills center. Everyone uses them, they are all mostly all dull. Yes, I am center drilling them. I was using what pb blaster I had left as a lube. But when that ran out, it stopped cutting, and just spun as it will. I think I'll get some actual cutting lube, and a bad *** bit or two. But paying 23$ for 4 bolts is just stupid. It's not about geting $ to r/d, which I would like, but I barely get that much from the navy as it is. I mean, that's almost as a rebuild kit, damn...later

Gene

iTrader: (1)

When the bolts hold the brake system onto your car, paying $23 is a bargain.

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

I suppose you're right, but the new ones I get usually seem heavier/more solid than the stock bolts by far to me, and their cheaper, I just have to wait three days, and pre order it. Mazda bolts are wimpy(well, my comparison between the ones I order, and the ones on my car). My only concern is that they may need to be less beefy because of designed "flex" mazda may have incorporated. But I really doubt it...later

ps, Please, anyone know of the bolt size yet?

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

Bah, I coulden't get that bolt size anywhere, so I just ordered from the dealer. I called some different ones, and it came to 3.08$ per bolt at the cheapest one, down fall is that it will take til monday to get them, and I can't get to the shop except on the weekends. Man, and I wanted to go home that weekend, grr...

Btw, anyone know which bit would be better for the job? I am about to order a set. Which ones would you get?

***An excellent addition to any workshop, this 115-piece drill bit set is constructed of M2 high speed steel. Coated with titanium nitride, each bit lasts twice as long as ordinary drill bits. The precision ground flutes cut quickly and cleanly.

or

***This cobalt coated drill bit set will be a welcome addition to any handyman's tool kit.

Use for drilling in tough, high tensile strength materials. The cobalt coated bits last 12 times longer than standard bits.

I have never really bought "good" bits, and never anything for metal. All my drilling has been in wood so far...later