uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I just installed speed bleeders on my GXL and bled the system in the correct order and it's still squishy (squishier then it was before speed bleeder install.) I noticed that the seal in the resevoir cap was really corroded and pretty much fell out of the cap in pieces so I'm wondering if that might impede my bleeding.

I'm not sure it is because I'm pretty sure the seal is there just to keep the fluid from seeping out during hard cornering/braking/etc and to keep dust and crap out since there isn't any hissing that would signal pressure equalizing when opening it.

I'm also positive I don't have any fluid leakage. I've inspected all the lines, connections, bleeders and even pulled up the carpet to see if the MC is bleeding back into the booster or anything silly like that.

NZConvertible

The cap is off during bleeding so how could it? It also has no effect on braking performance. All it does is keep fluid in the reservoir.

Squishy brakes after beeding usually means you've introduced air into the system somehow. Did the reservoir run dry at all during the bleeding?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Negative, the resevoir stayed above half full. I'll be bleeding the heck out of it again tomarrow and see what happens. I'm sure it's possible that the MC could also be tired after 110k miles.

* Although if the MC were the culprit the brakes should still be at least the same firmness as before (which was just ever so slightly squishy enough to bug me.)

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I had another go at bleeding but noticed that no matter what I try the rears always have air in them. The fronts are bleeding great. I ran up and down all the lines and there are no kinks, cracks, leaks or anything of that nature. I then moved up to the MC and had my lovely assistant pump the brake while I listen and looked it over.

I noticed a very slight sucking sound and looked underenath it and there's a plug with some wires coming off and brake fluid trickling down. I'm pretty sure it has to be a sensor for the AAS since the fluid level sensor is in the resevoir. I'm guessing that the rears were not bleeding because the MC is a dual chamber design and the sensor would be located more towards rear chamber. Oh well.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

No surprise, NAPA didn't have the parts anywhere near so they had to be ordered. I also snagged two new front rotors at $20 ea. for the fronts (mine are past the wear limit) and the AAS friendly MC was only $60. To make it even sweeter the set screws on the old rotors came out with a little PBBlaster, a tap with a hammer and a proper screwdriver.

I've replaced a MC once before but it took forever to bleed it and I heard that the easiest way to do this is to bench bleed it. I found a little how-to and it seems that I just need to buy a couple of 10x1mm bolts, thread them into the outlets, then fill the resevoir, pump the actuator with a pliers and the bleed by loosening the bolts, sound right?

Icemark

BY the way, a bad seal on the cap will result in he brake fluid dieing considerably earlier. The seal is not just for dust and slosh, but to keep the moisture level down in the brake fluid as well