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Brake Cleaning 101

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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 09:40 PM
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Brake Cleaning 101

I just picked up these items from the local junkyard for $140 together and I have a few questions about them


How would I go about in cleaning to rotors? they are rusted to the max...would I be able to put them on the car and just drive and let the brake pads resurface them? Or dipping the whole rotor in break fluid cleaner or something?




What goes between this part and the halfshaft? grease? or some kind of seal or something?

Any advice or tips would be appreciated. TIA

- J.k.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 09:44 PM
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Don't bother cleaning your rotors, bring um to the local shop and get them to cut them for you...it'll resurface the rotors making them like new. Its not too expensive either, and if your rotors are above the minimum thickness they can do it for you.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 09:49 PM
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Mic the rotors and see if they are in spec, if so, you can get them turned on a lathe. Wire brush the rotor hats and vents and paint/powder coat them.

As for the axle stub, there is a rubber seal on the half shaft that fits in the shiny round groove. There is no lube that goes in the hollow space. I don't really know why it's there except to save some weight.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 09:57 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Any other ways of going about with the brakes? without going to a shop.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 10:34 PM
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Yeah - lets go as cheap as possible with brakes. Good idea. The first thing I did with my 5-lug swap was buy all new rotors and new calipers - all four of them.

Don't cheap out and half *** brakes. You're putting other peoples lives at risk as well and I for one would be pissed to know that you were behind me.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 10:44 PM
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the calipers could probably be reused, but cutting junkyard rotors is rediculous. you can get brand new brembo rotors for like $90 each or plain old oem replacements for $30 each.

I wouldn't cheap out with your brakes man, just not worth it.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 10:46 PM
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Buying used brakes is like buying used underware.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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Yeah. Take them to Autozone or something and have them turned for a few bucks. Buy NEW pads ($20-30). Buy NEW crush washers for the soft lines ($3). Bleed them properly with a giant bottle of NEW fluid to push all the dirt out and DO NOT reuse the dirty fluid coming out of the bleeder valves...

You will want to inspect the studs for wear as well and to ensure they are not stripped at the hub and will properly and safely bolt the wheels to your car.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 11:29 PM
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Hmmm...Going to get new rotors and pads. And ill see what happens from there. Thanks for all the info guys.

- J.k.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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Theres nothing wrong with cutting rotors...but yeah for the price of rotors these days its just as cheap to buy new ones. In my case I'll probably have to cut them because Rx7 parts are so ******* scarce around here.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 07:52 AM
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You obviously have an internet connection. Unless you are out of the reach of UPSuck, Fedup, or USPS parts are not anymore scarce for you than then are me
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 11:45 AM
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Well I'm impatient but hell, I guess waiting for parts is one of the joys of owning an RX7.

I was under the impression that to do a 5 lug conversion you need calipers, rotors, hubs and booster//master cylinder...do you actually need the rear end too? Because I'm going to do this as soon as I get mine running.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 11:55 AM
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well technically you dont HAVE to do the back. but they you will have mis matched braking and different wheels and probably some other problems
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Electric
Well I'm impatient but hell, I guess waiting for parts is one of the joys of owning an RX7.

I was under the impression that to do a 5 lug conversion you need calipers, rotors, hubs and booster//master cylinder...do you actually need the rear end too? Because I'm going to do this as soon as I get mine running.
He said rear end not rear. No you do not need to do the rear end to do the swap. Most people do the rear becuase they want the LSD. Just remember that the half shafts are differrent between the TII and the N/A. Depending on what your future plans are you may want to go ahead and drop the TII rear in anyway. Or swap the carrier for a Torsen or other LSD
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 01:00 PM
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oops my bad i didnt fully read the post
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 05:02 PM
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If I dont have the brake master cylinder what would happen?
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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Even new rotors need to be turned sometimes, especially cheap ones. I've seen plenty that needed several thousandths turned off to true them up right out of the box. I'd just turn the old ones as long as they haven't been turned before and as long as they don't have any heat cracks in them.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ex-Eg-Driver
If I dont have the brake master cylinder what would happen?
You will be fine using the one you currently have.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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Most sources I see recommend new rotors over turned ones. I don't see any reason to ever turn a rotor unless the brake pads chewed them up (and again, I'd just replace them). I really don't think it helps anything. Just get new rotors and pads, properly break in the pads and it should be as good as can be.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 08:25 PM
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Thanks dudes. New rotors and pads FTW
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