uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I just put new calipers on the rear, and I'm having probs gettint the system bled. I've checked that all the connections are good, and have bled from both bleeders using a plastic tube going into a glass filled with brake fluid and the wife pumping, then holding the brakes while I crack open the bleeder.

I've done this until no more bubbles come out the tube, and the resevoir has always been kept higher then the half-way mark.

The system is still spongy, and I don't know WTH is going wrong. I've done alot of other brake jobs w/o problem, but I'm starting to think my FC is cursed or something. Any advice? Right now I just left the resevoir cap off in hopes that maybe some air will escape that way, although i think it's stupid.... <sigh>

7th Heaven

bleed the front brakes, you never know.

Wanked_FC

iTrader: (1)

i had to bleed mine like 5 times, and they are still spongy.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Bleed with the top bleeder only on the rears. rr, lr, rf, lf in that order.

I use a plastic peanut butter jar and drill a hole in the cap to firmly hold the rubber vacuum line.

Look ma, no spills.

casio

i was trying to remember how it went; apparently its furthest from the reservoir to closest as trochoid said.
dont leave the cap off. if i remember correctly and am not lying to you, thats bad for brake fluid (open to the air). i wish i could remember why so i dont feel like i'm filling you with rubbish, but i'm pretty sure about that.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I've tried all the bleeding tricks I know, including doing them in the right order and those ******* are still sloppy. Will a shop normally do this kinda thing for a bro while he waits, and how much do you think they'll charge?

I'm done trying on my own until the morning, I'm outta fluid. ******* brakes.

WAYNE88N/A

If you changed the calipers, you must bleed using the bottom bleeder first, then using the top bleeder. Don't ask me why, but that's what the book says, lol...

I never use a hose and fluid-filled glass, I just put my finger over the bleeder after cracking it, and keep it there through 10 to 20 brake/clutch/whatever cycles. Been bleeding my cars this way for over 20 years, and never had a problem after bleeding...It's too difficult not to let any air back in when you have to open & close the bleeder during every pedal application, at exactly the right times in sync with the pedal movements...

Just clean up any fluid that might have squirted on the rotors...

casio

some places, so i've heard, do pressure bleeding. it constantly pushes out fluid while constantly refilling it with new fluid. i've never seen this, but you may wanna try a place taht does that. or just make an agreement with a place that you want your brakes firm. they may even tell you something thats wrong. isnt that what they always do? tell ya something needs replaced so they make more money?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

They can go ahead and try. My lines are good, and my pads and calipers are all in tip-top shape. I'm goign to call around tomarrow and see what can be done. Has anyone ever tried one of those Mityvac things? I've ehard they work good for this kinda thing, but I think they're $60 or so.

Syonyk

Yea, bleed all 4 in the proper order (farthest from master cylinder to closest is the normal, no clue about antilocks).

-=Russ=-

Syonyk

Erm, another thought, the calipers should have top and bottom bleed screws. Did you bleed the caliper itsself?

-=Russ=-

HeffBoost

I have and it didn't work very well.
I would like to try the pressure bleeding deal. I've heard that works really well.

aznpoopy

if brake lines are old and worn they can lead to dead travel and spongy feel. have you changed your lines?

i put new OEM lines on my s14 and it made a huge difference.

nopistons

I've used a Mityvac and didn't have much luck with it either. After replacing the RR caliper with a new one. I just used the regular system of having someone pump-n-hold the pedal, and after just 6 or 8 cycles, it was fine. I used only the top bleeder.

totallimmortal

Yeah it can be a pain, i couldn't get my car to have any pedal feel at all after i changedm 4 lug single piston to 5 lug 4 piston along with changeing the brake booster, i went though two bottles of fluid and felt no difference, I ended up driving it to a shop usign the e-brake and they got it done but told me it took em 4 bottles of fluid. I'll have to try doin mine in that order that was suggested i guess

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Ouch, how much did it cost you to have them do it, and how long did it take them? I have an appointment at 2p today, and I'd rather not miss it.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Holy crap, I finally got them fully bled last night. I went to Fleet Farm looking for quick bleeders (a buddy told me they had them), but instead walked out with a $3 "one-man bleeding kit". It's just a nice fat rubber nipple with a check valve and some tubing on the other end.

You just loosen the valve, cram the nipple on, and pump the brakes ~4 times or until there's no air in the tube (including little bubbles). I did my front calipers too, and some nice black soot came out, but it's running clear now.

Brakes work AWESOME. I can't believe I've gone this long with stuck rears. I now have an e-brake, and the car feels much peppier now that it's not dragging it's ***, and stops even better.