Bradi cross drilled/slotted rotors
Bradi cross drilled/slotted rotors
I am wondering if anybody has heard anything good or bad about Bradi rotors. I am considering getting some but i would like to find out some more information before i buy them. I just want to know if they rust or if they have a tendency to crack ETC. Any info would be much appreciated....
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 75
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From: WA
Here are your pros and cons:
Plain Rotors:
Pros:
1. Inexpensive
2. Structurally sound and easily machine-able.
3. Good dispersive heat-sinking traits
Cons:
1. They don't look pimpy.
Cross Drilled and Slotted:
Pros:
1. Looks cool.
2. Out-gassing escape paths for older organic pads (this no-longer applies to 99% of today's pad material)
Cons:
1. Drilled holes create structural weak-points; they are much more likely to crack.
2. Removes material needed for heat-sinking (good heat-sinking is less fade).
3. More expensive and difficult to machine.
If anything, just slotted rotors might be a decent compromise (as long as the slots to run to the rotor edge), but they're still not going to improve your braking performance compared to the cost/perf ratio of a plain rotor. Street duty is light enough that drilled rotors would work okay, but they’re not really that great. The biggest improvement you'll get from "stopping power" would be pads and tires. For a reliable increase in stopping consistency and pedal feel I would do stainless lines and new fluid (like Motul RBF 600).
So maybe looking at upgrading your pads, lines and fluid – and keep an eye on your tires, because those are what ultimately stop the car.
Plain Rotors:
Pros:
1. Inexpensive
2. Structurally sound and easily machine-able.
3. Good dispersive heat-sinking traits
Cons:
1. They don't look pimpy.
Cross Drilled and Slotted:
Pros:
1. Looks cool.
2. Out-gassing escape paths for older organic pads (this no-longer applies to 99% of today's pad material)
Cons:
1. Drilled holes create structural weak-points; they are much more likely to crack.
2. Removes material needed for heat-sinking (good heat-sinking is less fade).
3. More expensive and difficult to machine.
If anything, just slotted rotors might be a decent compromise (as long as the slots to run to the rotor edge), but they're still not going to improve your braking performance compared to the cost/perf ratio of a plain rotor. Street duty is light enough that drilled rotors would work okay, but they’re not really that great. The biggest improvement you'll get from "stopping power" would be pads and tires. For a reliable increase in stopping consistency and pedal feel I would do stainless lines and new fluid (like Motul RBF 600).
So maybe looking at upgrading your pads, lines and fluid – and keep an eye on your tires, because those are what ultimately stop the car.
