BOV on stock TII? SEARCHED
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 0
From: Statesboro, GA
I've been using the HKS bov's for quite some time now. i like them. although, when i had the older model, i noticed the guts of the thing was plastic. it ended up falling to pieces because oil from the compressor side of my worn out turbo deteriorated the plastic. oh, i can't forget to mention that the 20psi i was pushing was super heated. so i bought another HKS. looks great, works great, sounds great. using stock insert, but i've thought several times of ordering the lower tone insert.
don't waste your money on the full kit either. just buy the universal bov kit and then go buy the aluminum flange. find someone with a TIG welder. cut a hole where the stock bypass valve hooked into and weld on the flange. install BOV, plug hole in TID.
oh, and my car has never backfired due to an atmospheric BOV.
reason being, above about 1.2 psi or so, the ecu switches from using the AFM to using the MAP. so anything above 1.2 psi, the ecu is pulling from fuel tables and doesn't really know what the AFM is reading. so when you let off the gas for a shift, it shouldn't make a difference wether the BOV is a re-circ or not.
don't waste your money on the full kit either. just buy the universal bov kit and then go buy the aluminum flange. find someone with a TIG welder. cut a hole where the stock bypass valve hooked into and weld on the flange. install BOV, plug hole in TID.
oh, and my car has never backfired due to an atmospheric BOV.
reason being, above about 1.2 psi or so, the ecu switches from using the AFM to using the MAP. so anything above 1.2 psi, the ecu is pulling from fuel tables and doesn't really know what the AFM is reading. so when you let off the gas for a shift, it shouldn't make a difference wether the BOV is a re-circ or not.
Last edited by fstrnyou; Sep 28, 2006 at 08:44 PM.
Thread Starter
pfft.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, Florida
Okay. Necro-ing this thread. I got an ARC Blow off valve from Australia. It's set up to work with a stock setup of a TII. Airbox and all. I put it in, and it's just not making any sound at all. Sounds just like the stock release valve did. I literally unplugged the stock release valve, and plugged in this one.
One side of the flanges on the BOV is blocked off, just so we all know. Any ideas?
One side of the flanges on the BOV is blocked off, just so we all know. Any ideas?
Full Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: San Jose, CA
Originally Posted by TURBODUECE88
u can put any bov on a stock TII, however itl back fire every time u shift until u get a standalone because the computer is delivering fuel to the engine thinking that the air now being realesed into the atmost phere is being resurculated into the intake like it is stock.
Thread Starter
pfft.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, Florida
Okay, I got it to make a little bit of a sound by adjusting the bolt on top a little. It just doesn't make much noise whatsoever. But it does backfire like ******* CRAZY when i let off at a high rpm. I don't mind that so much. Anyone have any ideas now?
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Middletown, RI
what the hell are you guys talking about... backfiring EVERY time you shift.
My stock 10AE has an apex'i bov, on the Stock ECU with FCD, pushing approx 7.2 PSI. And yes, i do shoot flames, but not every time i shift. When i put it to the floor and let off, while it revs down in the same gear it will backfire.
Not everytime i shift.
(Sorry for threadjacking)
My stock 10AE has an apex'i bov, on the Stock ECU with FCD, pushing approx 7.2 PSI. And yes, i do shoot flames, but not every time i shift. When i put it to the floor and let off, while it revs down in the same gear it will backfire.
Not everytime i shift.
(Sorry for threadjacking)
Originally Posted by arkady151
You can adapt any aftermarket bov to work with a stock TII without having any adapters or welding any flanges. Just takes some afro-engineering.
Heres what I did:
The stock bov sits on a peice of vac cable that goes from the metal intercooler hard line into the stock bov and then it plugs right into the TID. So that it recirculates.
Take the stock vac line off and go to any auto parts store. They wont have vacuum line thats bigger than the stock peice. Or atleast the ones around me didnt so ask them to see all the universal coolant hoses. Buy one thats fits snug over the vac line.
Also purchase two screw type hose clamps.
Plugs the stock vac line back into the intercooler hard line. Still using the stock clamp that was on it. Attach the weld on fitting to the new bov . Take the coolant line, cut it to a few inches. Put it on the flange to the bov. Put the screw type clamp on it and tighten it good. Attach the other end to the stock vac line coming off the intercooler , put the clamp over it. Disconnect the stock vac line on top of the stock bov and attach it to the new one.
Leave the stock bov in the TID. This way theres no hole left to plug and if you ever have problems with your aftermarket bov you can just rip it off and clamp the stock vac line back into the stock bov. And its as easy as 5 seconds.
I see it as 10 bucks well spent with no need to weld anything or take **** off and easy reversability if needed.
Thats how I attached my RFL and it seems to be working great. Plus back fires and flames are cool in my book.
Hope that helps. If anything I can take a pic of how its set up. But once you look at it , its damn simple.
Heres what I did:
The stock bov sits on a peice of vac cable that goes from the metal intercooler hard line into the stock bov and then it plugs right into the TID. So that it recirculates.
Take the stock vac line off and go to any auto parts store. They wont have vacuum line thats bigger than the stock peice. Or atleast the ones around me didnt so ask them to see all the universal coolant hoses. Buy one thats fits snug over the vac line.
Also purchase two screw type hose clamps.
Plugs the stock vac line back into the intercooler hard line. Still using the stock clamp that was on it. Attach the weld on fitting to the new bov . Take the coolant line, cut it to a few inches. Put it on the flange to the bov. Put the screw type clamp on it and tighten it good. Attach the other end to the stock vac line coming off the intercooler , put the clamp over it. Disconnect the stock vac line on top of the stock bov and attach it to the new one.
Leave the stock bov in the TID. This way theres no hole left to plug and if you ever have problems with your aftermarket bov you can just rip it off and clamp the stock vac line back into the stock bov. And its as easy as 5 seconds.
I see it as 10 bucks well spent with no need to weld anything or take **** off and easy reversability if needed.
Thats how I attached my RFL and it seems to be working great. Plus back fires and flames are cool in my book.
Hope that helps. If anything I can take a pic of how its set up. But once you look at it , its damn simple.
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 90
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From: ATL
Originally Posted by gregk
Are you sure you need a standalone to cure this? I was under the impression that the SAFC has a function that takes care of that.
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 90
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From: ATL
Originally Posted by tIIsleeper
I have a greddy type-s kit on my stock 87 tII and it runs fine, doesnt run rich, or backfire. I dont know how your gonna get a bov that looks stock but is loud.
And you can always make a pipe that re routes the bov to the stock intake. not that hard.
And you can always make a pipe that re routes the bov to the stock intake. not that hard.
ur a pretty rare case i guess, ive herd of a few fokes like u but moslty people run a little rich when they ad a bov to stock ecu. and if u re route it back into the air box it will be just like the stock one... resurculating
There's Nothin Like Boost
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario
Hey Guys,
I installed a couple weeks ago the older HKS Sequential BOV made way back on my '90 TII which is all stock and in mint condition, and everything runs great and I dont get any backfire whatsoever so im guessing im not running rich either. But I am having a problem with my boost gauge not functioning properly anymore. it doesnt read accurately anymore and sometimes I can't build full boost. everything is set up right and there are no more leaks (cause there was before) but I still get this problem. I've adjusted the top screw as much as you possibly can and still the same results.
I installed a couple weeks ago the older HKS Sequential BOV made way back on my '90 TII which is all stock and in mint condition, and everything runs great and I dont get any backfire whatsoever so im guessing im not running rich either. But I am having a problem with my boost gauge not functioning properly anymore. it doesnt read accurately anymore and sometimes I can't build full boost. everything is set up right and there are no more leaks (cause there was before) but I still get this problem. I've adjusted the top screw as much as you possibly can and still the same results.
i just got my rfl installed today.... and ya it does run rich now, but as we all know, rich is better than too lean. It spools a little faster now also.... I definetly wouldn't recommend this bov for someone wanting to sound stock... you can scare the crap out of ppl with this bov....lol....its awesome!
Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,218
Likes: 0
From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
Originally Posted by RX7Boy06
Don't get a GReddy Type S if you want it too look stock, but if you want a loud sound i hear there the one to get, btw what are the washers for that come with after-market BOV????
Fixed
