hen3ry

iTrader: (1)

I just recharged my a/c with freeze-12 (works great btw) and noticed that i'll get bouncing idles when the a/c is on. It immediately settles down when i turn the a/c off. I tried to do some searches and the only thing i came across was a thing called BCS(?) which evens out the idle when under load (like a/c). What's a bcs? I didn't see it in the faq. If anyone could provide some info that would be great.

Syncro

iTrader: (1)

Odd... I have the exact opposite problem :P

Idle is bouncy without A\C

spot_skater

Original poster... Check your BAC valve.

Synco... check for vacuum leaks and make sure your TPS is in spec.

MIGHTYMAX

hen3ry I have the same problem. Instead of recharging my a/c i hooked it up (the previous owner had the belt and pulley's off..too hott in vegas!!). If you find out what is wrong Id appreciate it if you could fill me in!! Thanks

TexanSeven

I've got a similar problem - when I first turn on the A/C it works well and idles fine, but then about 5-10 seconds later it wants to run very rough and stall. It doesn't really bounce, it runs just like it has a huge vac leak - but only when the A/C is on. I have no emissions or BAC on it currently - I tried hooking up the BAC but with it connected the idle is even worse (bouncy and inconsistant) and also it has the dreaded 3k accelerated warmup crap. Question to rtek ECU owners - Can you use the rtek ECU in conjunction with the BAC and does it still remove the 3k AWS? I'd like to run the BAC to help with idle control for A/C and P/S, but I can't deal with the crazy idle or the 3k AWS.

There are no vac leaks and the TPS is adjusted properly (as good as it can be - see below).
The car has a solid idle (no bounces) without the A/C on, but occasionally when I let the revs drop themselves the idle will "settle" at different places. It usually idles right around 850 steady but sometimes it will "settle" at 1000 or 1100. Also when I go to calibrate the TPS using the digital multimeter method, I'll set it at 1 Volt, right on the money, then manipulate the linkage to WOT and let it snap back it will "settle" at .97 or 1.03. Shouldn't return to the 1Volt setting, or is it supposed to vary that much? Does this mean my TB's springs are bad?

On a completly seperate note, my ECU does not throw a code if the O2 Sensor is disconnected. Could this be tied to my other problems? Maybe bad ECU?

Could a tired motor cause any or all of these symptoms?

Sorry for the longwinded post, but I wanted to cover all the bases. Any helpful info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

88 TII - 150k - no emissions - A/C - P/S - n333 ECU