bought my first rx-7 for 850 it is a 1990 gxl need help
08-15-05, 06:00 PM
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bought my first rx-7 for 850 it is a 1990 gxl need help
ok i bought a 1990 rx-7 with 109000 miles on it and i love to drive...can someone plz fill me in on rotary powered what i can expect...(i know that rebuild engine every 100k miles or so) but can someone help me. i know piston engines but i dont know these monsters
but it is a 13b non turbo.....another question is how easy are they to rebuild.....ty
but it is a 13b non turbo.....another question is how easy are they to rebuild.....ty
08-15-05, 06:03 PM
#2
With a Turbo engine you need a rebuild anywhere from 125k to 160kish on an N/a you need a rebuild every 150-200k miles depending on how good it behaves. A lot of this is up to maintenance and driver/mechanic behavior.
Read the faq threads.
Easy to rebuild? That depends on your skill. I'd personally say that if you have done most of the work on your car for a couple of years prior then you can handle it with a buddy to help out.
Read the faq threads.
Easy to rebuild? That depends on your skill. I'd personally say that if you have done most of the work on your car for a couple of years prior then you can handle it with a buddy to help out.
08-15-05, 06:24 PM
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ok well as i have stated all my exp is on piston engines and them i have worked on since aorund 7 years old...did i get a good price on it..it is in pretty good shape....usually dont take it over 4000 rpm before i shift should i shift lower to up engine life??
08-15-05, 06:40 PM
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Shift higher! Once you are comfortable with the car, that is.
The nonturbo has an extra pair of ports that open up around 3800. It is a good idea to take it up to 6 or 7k at least once everytime you drive it. The fifth and sixth ports can get gummed up from not being opened often enough. If the start sticking, you lose power above 4k. In this case, babying is a bad thing.
Do a search on auxiliary ports sticking.
Other things to look for and do searches on:
-oil metering pump output (make sure it's pumping oil to the rotors, this is not the same as the engine oil pump). It can be a pain to check flow and the rod freeplay at the pump (your car, a series 5, may not have the rod, I can't remember) but if it isn't working right, engine life will be shortened to say the least.
-check and replace (if there is any question at all) all the fuel lines and coolant lines (the harder they are to replace, the more critical they are).
The nonturbo has an extra pair of ports that open up around 3800. It is a good idea to take it up to 6 or 7k at least once everytime you drive it. The fifth and sixth ports can get gummed up from not being opened often enough. If the start sticking, you lose power above 4k. In this case, babying is a bad thing.
Do a search on auxiliary ports sticking.
Other things to look for and do searches on:
-oil metering pump output (make sure it's pumping oil to the rotors, this is not the same as the engine oil pump). It can be a pain to check flow and the rod freeplay at the pump (your car, a series 5, may not have the rod, I can't remember) but if it isn't working right, engine life will be shortened to say the least.
-check and replace (if there is any question at all) all the fuel lines and coolant lines (the harder they are to replace, the more critical they are).
08-16-05, 12:25 AM
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his omp is electric so he won't have the rod. I have an s4 so someone else chime in on how to check the elctric pumps. You should also make sure you don't have broken omp lines. Upon disassembly of my block I discovered one of my lines had broken and was just spilling oil onto the housing. Oh, look in the faq of this section most importantly, lots of info there. Links to FSM included.
08-16-05, 12:37 AM
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Engine life is variable on how you treat it. My friend has a TII with 180k+ still running, driving, and starting properly though its compression is getting low. The sensors/components are crapping out before the engine is...
Non-turbo, on average, lasts longer than turbo. And like I said, it's variable on how it's treated, so treat your car well and properly.
Non-turbo, on average, lasts longer than turbo. And like I said, it's variable on how it's treated, so treat your car well and properly.
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08-16-05, 12:40 AM
#8
Well you got a good price, just depends is there any problems with the car already? But you know what everyone says 8k a day keeps the carbon at bay. So don't be to scared. But it depends on what you do with the car for the rebuild. Basicly the only thing that would ruin the car would be too much overheating or somehow "somehow" your apex seals break. But yeah, keep your baby nice. Remember bring it up to around 7-8k once in a while. Good luck with your baby.
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