Rukuss0167

Just bought a 1987 RX-7, non turbo, it's got a motor with 20k km on it. Got many problems to sort out.

When I gas up and let off, the car drops to below 300rpm, than slowly climbs back up to 700-800rpm and holds, feels like it's going to stall when it drops down to the 300 range. How do I adjust??? wheres the screw?

My turn signals dont work, I have a replacement cluster, will replacing it help?

When I get out of the car, it smells like oil burning, no smoke, oil level holding, no visable leaks. Oil pressure at 4 and holds when driving on highway at 3000rpm

My clutch feels very lose, but it's suposed to only have 20k on it, it goes down about 1inch before I feel any resistance, the car has no trouble starting up or driving, no problems shifting.

Should my car take 3-4 seconds to start when I turn the key? battery is about 70% good.

I have buttons by the gears, something for the suspension, it says, Normal, and Sport, cant tell the difference when i press either one, whats it do? Does it work?

I like my breaks hard and responsive, the break feels loose to me, what can i do?

( Despite all these little things that need to be resolved, I love my RX-7, i love it, i love it, i love it!, gona take it, and do my best to take atleast 10 years of it's wear, lots of body work, but it'll be worth it

Anyone know a good place to buy parts, need a right front balljoint, dealer wants 70$cdn )

flamin-roids

Try bleeding your brake and clutch to tighten them up. Also make sure you don't have a leak. RX's smell so as long as there isn't any smoke then you are ok. I beleive the flashers were pretty problematic so you might need to replace that. My car drops really low and then climbs back up to idle also and I think you might want to have the TPS looked at. I know mines bad. That might also be your engine starting problem because mine does that too unless you start it just right.

Icemark

could be a half dozen things there, but probably a bad BAC, or mis-adjusted TPS or vac leak.

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My turn signals dont work, I have a replacement cluster, will replacing it help?

Probably need a solder job on the flasher board in the CPU. I sell rebuilt ones on my website if you don;t want to do it yourself

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When I get out of the car, it smells like oil burning, no smoke, oil level holding, no visable leaks. Oil pressure at 4 and holds when driving on highway at 3000rpm

you need to locate where oil is leaking or has been spilled. It is also possible that the engine was detailed/cleaned with something that has not burn off yet.

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My clutch feels very lose, but it's suposed to only have 20k on it, it goes down about 1inch before I feel any resistance, the car has no trouble starting up or driving, no problems shifting.

Probably air in the line or a old flexible line between the master and slave.

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Should my car take 3-4 seconds to start when I turn the key? battery is about 70% good.

normal for a rotary to take a second or two to start... is it really 4 seconds or 2 that seem like 4 seconds?

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I have buttons by the gears, something for the suspension, it says, Normal, and Sport, cant tell the difference when i press either one, whats it do? Does it work?

The stock adjustable suspension didn;t change much when new unless you were cornering. After this much time, I would not be surprised that the stock cockpit adjustable shocks have been replaced with no adjust ones though.

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I like my breaks hard and responsive, the break feels loose to me, what can i do?

Again probably either air in the lines (bleed the lines) or worn/flexible brake lines, or a leaking brake booster.

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( Despite all these little things that need to be resolved, I love my RX-7, i love it, i love it, i love it!, gona take it, and do my best to take atleast 10 years of it's wear, lots of body work, but it'll be worth it

Anyone know a good place to buy parts, need a right front balljoint, dealer wants 70$cdn )

Mazdaformance.com or Mazdatrix.com are your best bets, but you might be able to find something like that in the local auto parts store too if you are not too far from a major city.

Rukuss0167

I dont know whether to replace the avctual switch or the cluster, I have a spare cluster, but it's turning into alot of work in order to replace it, by the way, my high beams work fine on that same switch, but when i try the turn signal nothing happens for left or right? so what you guys think? the switch, or cluster????

NA2TurboProject

fuse maybe?

Rukuss0167

this is weird but... i looked everywhere for the fuse box, and I have no idea where it could be, lol.

It's not posible for the car to burn coolant and have absolutly no smoke coming from the engine right????

My coolant level has droped to near empty over the last 5 days, the engione is not overheating, oil level is clean and stable, no smoke from inside the engine, and I found a small puddle of what seems like (maybe) coolant under the radiator.

WAYNE88N/A

Look on the driver's side "foot-well" for the fuse box, about 1' in front of the door cutout. May or may not have a black plastic cover over it.

Didn't you do another thread on this coolant thing? If so, I answered on that one...Water pump leaks can be hard to spot, because the heat of the block evaporates most of it away. I had one that leaked about a quart a day, just kept refilling the system every day until I got her changed....Took me a while to figure out where it was coming from...

Rukuss0167

I'm praying and hoping it's not a water pump, how much do you think this will cost me? considering i cant find anyone but the dealer to supply parts for me.

So now I got 3 main problems.

Fixing coolant leak/burn.
Fixing turn signal switch
Fixing Handbrake line.

I'm starting to think im best of taking it to the mechanic, i'm no expert at this stuff. I'll probably just stick to fixing the small stuff.

Icemark

Neither:

Probably need a solder job on the flasher board in the CPU. I sell rebuilt ones on my website if you don;t want to do it yourself

Icemark

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

About the ball joint question. I found a pair on ebay by a seller "Zapparts" that were oem, for (I think), 105 or something a pair, but head aftermarket ones, that only cost me ~50 dollars for both, I think 60 after shipping.. here's a link to his site, VERY fast service, I ordered the expensive ones about 3:00 PM on a thursday (paid then), got the email asking me if i wanted the cheaper ones about 7:00PM that night, i agreed and by Saturday I had the difference in price and my balljoints in hand.. They seemed to be pretty good.

link to their store: http://stores.ebay.com/ZAPPARTS-by-B-QUEST

MidnightOwl

This may be kind of a dumb suggestion, but maybe the bulbs are burnt out in your flashers. I'd also recommend checking the fuses, its really easy to do with a multimeter. Plus you can find out if you have some more burnt out fuses in there.

Rukuss0167

well right now i'm planning on taking it down to a mechanic to check out my coolant disapearing act, because it's driving me nuts.

Found balljoints for 70$cdn, but until further inspection, im pretty sure theyres nothing wrong with the one i have now, the guy could have been wrong about it.

I'm planning on taking the turn signal switch to someone who can fix it, or use one of the links you guys provided to get that. (thanks) (225$ for a used, jesus!)

Than I realized my handbreak line aint lose, it's completly torn apart, 36$ to replace it, but I figured out how to fix it, unfortunetly that little peice of metal that holds the 3 lines together is so rusted it's probably gona need to be replaced. I'll probably just make something out of stainless steel because i hate rust

All together with new tires i'm looking to get it up and running for 500$, i hope..., i just want it on the road!!!!!! !!!!!!! is that so much to ask!!!! damn mazda dealer makes it so hard and expensive to get the damn parts, and if you ask them anything, oh bring it in, we'll only charge you 80$/hour!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ahhhh!