Ok, yesturday was messing with boost controller and I hit a 15psi boost spike, motor studdered for a second, but still ran. Then, when pulling into drive way, motor died.. now won't start. Getting fuel, but no compression. Motor was a mazda rebuild that had just over 40,000 miles on it. So I'm going to order a J-spec motor tomorrow and have my local shop do the R and R, anything special I should look for in a J spec??

Also, the only way I could get my motor to start when warm was with a fuel cut out switch.. I I personally believe my motor was going, even though it had good power.. now its dead.

Also, my stock ECU will work with a J spec right??
I have no emission requirements so no need for smog stuff.

 

if your going for performance, just rebuild locally with a port instead of buying a new jspec and rebuilding it. (if thats what your doing)

 

I won't be rebuilding the J Spec, just installing the motor and hopeing to get the best out of the car. I've decided I would like my car to run and be relieable.. these are the current mods to the car....

HKS front Mount intercooler
HKS Sequiential blow off valve
Jacobs Ignition on leading coil
Apex S-AFC computer
Apex AVC R boost controller
HKS Intake
Full Raceing Beat Exhaust with FCD

The turbo on the Car was rebuilt with a TO4B compressor wheel and waste gate ported, however, the exhaust manifold has cracks.. as well does the turbo. My plan is to use the turbo and manifold off the J spec, they should be in good shape.

 

No upgrade fuel pump...*sigh*...



-Ted

 

I'm scared to run mine over 10 (I have a Walboro pump)cause I still have the 550s in it.

 

I forgot to mention, yes fuel pump is upgraded with the one from RX7.com in Texas

 

Where do you guys get your J spec engines from?? So far the best price i found was nipponracing. But Id love to hear of some more places.

 

www.fc3s.org

www.corksport.com

 

Been to both of them, wasnt too Impressed with the prices. I wish i could find this place again that i found selling motor and tranny for 850!! But i lost the email and searching for it never came up with anything..

 

Http://www.nippon-motors.com

 

In my mind FCD = blown motor

Just another casualty to throw on the heap...

 

"R and R" is removal and reinstallation, meaning he would get a shop to swap motors, not rebuild the motor.
Sean

 

Dude I wouldnt deal with anyone but dave and joe at www.fc3s.org They are the best at customer service!


Hell corksport still hasnt sent me a picture of the motor I was about to spend 1800 bucks for...Not to mention they were about a bunch of rude people on the phone...

www.revolutionrotary.com had a used motor and tranny, but I think they are ebay material now

 

Another blown motor...sigh.
Those who haven't re-wired your fuel pump, I'd suggest you do it soon before boosting too high. Can you say "10V" ? One night a long time ago, I happen to just floor it and see how the car runs. At about 9 psi, I heard a detonation so I immediately let off. It made me think because during the day I know I could hit 13 psi . I had a Walbro 255lph pump, 720 secondaties, upgraded ECU and S-AFC. So that night I wanted to see what sort of voltage I was getting to the pump. With the headlamps, and driving lights on , I was getting 10V and fluctuates to 9V to the pump.
Scary huh? I read somewhere about the Kenne Belle Boost a Pump and thought I gave it a try since the guy who runs the dyno says a lot of the Mustang guys are using it. It clamps onto the stock wiring and it's adjustable to 16V as long as the unit is able to see at least 6V. No matter what you install, it will always stay at whatever voltage you dial it at. It's proven on the dyno and it works. Now I have it set at 13V and it does not fluctuate.
Another way is to re-wire the pump straight to the battery.