Hey guys I understand that the stock turbo uses an internakl wastegate with a 7.5lb spring to limit boost. Now what exactly would I need to run higher. I see these cheap manual boost controllers on ebay, would I need anything more than one of thoise?

 

You have a lot of posts, so I assume you know that you need fuel and an FCD. After that, I think a manual boost controller would work. I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong.

 

I have a tuned ECU that lets boost go up to 14.8psi, removes fuel cut, and a few other cool features. I can try and find the number of the company if you want.

 

In your title you mention turbo timers. If you want one then you would be wasting money. You dont need a turbo timer on an fc because the turbo is water cooled.

 

yea sorry i had to cut the post short cause my boss wlaked in. I was pretty sure they wer eonly necesary on oil cooled turbos but I wanted to be positive. With the manual boost controllers, does anyone know of a write-up describign installation.

Also I doint need a fcd cause I have a n/a and am going standalone.

 

Follow the instructions that come with it.

 

Has anyone here used a cheap manual boost controller like these or know of any feedback good or bad?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PTI-M...04432515QQrdZ1

 

That's not necessarily true, it's still good to have a turbo timer on the car for longevity's sake.

In fact, if you pull out your owners manual Mazda recommends letting the car run for at least 30 seconds after it's been driven hard/freeway driving etc. before turning it off. If you're running higher than stock boost levels= greater turbo temps, you would probably want longer than that.

While it may not be as big a deal on our cars, a turbo timer still helps if you do any drag/autox/road course racing.

 

First, finalize your exhaust system, cause you will be surprised how high the boost goes on a free-flowing exhaust...

Then worry about if you need to up the boost more after that.

I wouldn't be surprised it you're running 10 - 12psi of boost with just the exhaust.
Do you need to go higher?


-Ted

 

Cue the obvious, port teh wastegate to get rid of the creep, then worry about boost controllers.

The downside to manual controls is that they bleed air, which means that there's constant pressure on the wastegate so it lags spool up slightly, where-as most electronic units are solenoid controlled, so it's closed completely until desired boost is met.

 

Pop for a greddy boost controller. Its only three hundred bucks, which is cheap for an EBC. Dont bother with a manual.

 

I'll second that motion.

I got my Greddy Profec B Spec 2 for 200 bucks new, just keep your eyes open.

 

But see, then he has to think about it because he can get a manual boost controller for exactly 30-40 dollars. If you do not intend to run alot of power and just do basic mods, get the manual, if you plan to do more, go ahead and save your money for the electric controller. It all depends on what you want to do with the car.

 

That's true, but the EBC has sooo many nice features to it.

For instance, you can set how fast the wastegate openst so that the turbo will spool faster, and you can set a boost limit so if the car hits that it will cut off and drop the boost.

Nice features, just depends on budget.

 

Quit talking about it......your making me want to spend cash that I dont have on a car that isnt mine(my sisters new 87TII) :-P

 

It seems funny to put a turbo timer on a 15-20yo car in order to make the turbo last longer, but that's what people do. The fact that plenty of stock turbo can last this long proves you don't need one. Most turbos die due to the wear associated with a couple of decades of normal use or a shorter period of abuse. A turbo timer won't help in either situation.

Let’s be honest about this. Turbo timers are not there to help the car; they are there to help lazy car owners. With a water-cooled turbo it requires only minimum driver effort to avoid any risk of damage to the turbo. You don't need to sit in the car waiting unless you've just been fanging it.

That’s pretty much what it says in every turbo car’s handbook, but what they are referring to is if you stop immediately after hard driving. It only takes a mile or two of normal driving to bring turbo core temps down to safe levels where extended idling is not required. This is more effective at cooling the turbo anyway due to increased water flow through the turbo and airflow though the cooling system.

It doesn't help any more than it does in street driving. In my track and drag experience I never felt any need for one. On the track you have a cool-down lap and then usually an inspection to make sure nothing fell off. Just leave the engine running until you're done. Drag racing's pretty much the same and I imagine autocross is too. I don't remember ever having to run away from the car as soon as I got out of it so I don't see why I'd need to spend money for a device to turn the engine off for me when I'm standing right next to it.

Motorsport aside, unless you can't help yourself from boosting down your road and then down your driveway, a turbo timer offers little if any additional protection for your turbo. I've never heard a turbo expert say they do, only turbo timer sellers.

You're mixing your facts up a bit. There's more pressure on the wastegate actuator when the air is not being bled. EBC's vent all pressure in the line to keep the wastegate closed and then pulse the solenoid closed to open the wastegate when required. Bleeder-type MBC's are always venting a bit, so they will also spool the turbo quicker than no boost controller at all, just not as much as an EBC.

 

I was only ever comparing the two, not saying that it lags spool-up over none, but rather lags spool-up over an electronic gismo.

 

I know what you're getting at, but the way you're saying it is a bit, um, funny...

Adding a MBC reduces wastegate creep, so it reduces spool time a bit.

Adding an EBC eliminates wastegate creep, so it reduces spool time a lot.

 

I am using this cheap MBC.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...QQcmdZViewItem

It has a pressure regulator AND a bleed valve.
That combination gives more control.

Then I hooked it up with a solenoid bypass so I run in low boost with manifold pressure directly to the waste gate actuator for daily driving.
Then I can switch off the bypass to invoke the MBC for sporty driving.
(Street racing is unsafe & illegal )

 

Ok so even if I dont need to raise the boost, gettign a MBC will hep my turbo spool up quicker?

Also can does anyone know of a writeup about porting the s4 wastegate? I searched and only found the s5? Even some before/after pics would help.

 

i like the CB u got its awwsome does it get police band and fast and the furious band? lol just kidding...thats sounds like a nice setup....how much did that specific setup run you?

dood check out RETeds place....FC3spro.com...hes got TB mod...wastegate porting u name it....this site has ALOT OF **** and u can see why hes soo arrogant...lol(just kidding REted..please dont flame me!)

 

I only saw the s5 wastegate porting writeup on his site, ill look again.

What r u talkign about on top?

 

The MBC was about $42 shipped.
The switch was about $10.
The solenoid was salvaged from the emissions removal - free.



The results:

 

what do you mean what do i mean? if u mean TB i mean throttle body if u mean CB i mean his radio hes got...in the pics....

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=343788

I reposted the pics at the end.