sercho

iTrader: (5)

so my fc is at my parents house because i needed a garage to do the turbo swap. mom cleans up, puts battery in the engine bay, backwards. being the stupid **** i am, didnt even check and hooked it up, blowing the main fuse -_-

anyway, how can i check what else i managed to destroy?

and other questions, this is my first time with a turbo motor, i dont know where these two go:

this guy comes from under the UIP, connects to oil lines around the fuel pump. looks like one of those squid robots from the matrix.

this is this second one i cant find where it goes. next to the TB

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

When accidentally switching the battery terminals, did you turn the key at all? If not, and you only blew the 80A main fuse, everything else should be okay.

The first pic... That hose is for metered air. It is a common misconception that it is connected to a vacuum source. It goes to the biggest nipple on the backside of the UIM. (If I remember correctly, it is the bottom nipple.) From that nipple, that hose goes to the "squid robot" (as you called it.) - Most people refer to it as the "spider."... The other hoses that come off of the spider go to the oil injector nozzles.

The second pic... Not sure. That is some crappy crimped terminal. The wire looks brown. Does it have a black or white stripe down the center of the wire?

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

Honestly, that single wire with the female spade attached could go to one of two places. It could either be the oil pressure wire (which is just below the filter and takes a similar connector) OR its possibly for the bullet type connector thats to the left of the oil pressure sending unit (which IIRC its an oil temp probe for the ecu, i forget at the moment).

sercho

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the quick responses fellas, @dwb i did not turn the key so much relieved on that one! i'll check this weekend if the wire has any color down the middle.

@firstrotary, i'll check those out. if the oil pressure unit youre talking about is under the heater core, i already got that plugged in with a factory wire from the harness, i'll check the other suggestion this weekend.

Thanks again!

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Considering the wire is brown... I believe that both of your suggestions would be incorrect. The wires you're referring to are yellow. Unless this wire was spliced in, it is not for the water temperature gauge (YW) or oil pressure gauge (YR).

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

In the picture that wire looks yellow to me, and fairly dirty. Ive had several FC's where the wires at the oil pressure sensor were 'brown'ish yellow from age and oil discoloration.

sercho

iTrader: (5)

it is yellow i believe. but wont see it in person again til friday night

sercho

iTrader: (5)

yep it was yellow, plugged it in to the oil pressure sending unit and got that spider hooked up to the nipple (the middle nipple for future reference).

But now more woes. Replaced main fuse, ignition clicks but wont turn over. I tried to push start it and it gave me a few gurgles, sounded like it wanted to start, but wouldnt. just pushed it down my street with my brother.

first guesses?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Ah, looked completely brown in the picture. Mine have been dirty brown, but not that dirty I guess... FirstRotaryExp, my apologies.

As for the spider hose, it looks like the bottom nipple in the vacuum diagram in the FSM. It is the bottom nipple on my S4 TII... But it is a JDM UIM.

What series is your car anyway?

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you need to get a good battery hooked up to the car and deflood the engine.

If the battery is known good (as in will fire up any other car), then give the starter a few whacks with a blunt object, chances are good the starter solenoid is on its way out (cheap fix if you take the starter off and to a starter/alternator/generator repair shop instead of just buying a 'new' remanned unit from parts store A).

Also check to make sure the neutral safety switch isnt being a douchecanoe by being either broken or unable to close the circuit due to a broken rubber pad on the clutch pedal arm. A bad switch will also make the car just 'click' and not turn over.

Also, ive had a case of a FC (nonturbo) being flooded enough that a simple push start wouldnt suffice. We had to 'pull' start it with another car (mostly because the surrounding area was uphill with the area the car was parked being a low spot.

HAILERS2

Clicks but won't turn over could also be something as simple as the neg or pos terminal at the battery isn't on good enough to carry current. Like good enough to keep the idiot lights on but not good enough to turn the starter over.

Actually just last week I replaced the battery in one of my cars and had the starter solenoid just click and all the problem was, was the pos terminal not connected up good enough.

sercho

iTrader: (5)

Its a series 5 motor with series 4 omp and series 4 harness, etc.

So i hooked up the battery from my toyota and still just clicking, no turning over. Whacked the starter too lol, nothing. My mate's bringing a voltometer later, we'll test some stuff.

Would u suggest i try to push start again with another battery? And how did u hook up ur 7 to get a 'push' start?

sercho

iTrader: (5)

aight so my friend came and left and we jumpered the starter and it would spin but other that that it wouldnt. so i'll look around on the forums and craigslist and see if i can pick one up.

also, when we tried push starting it again, the tach would be a bit jumpy when attempting to start. ideas?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

did you check to see if the IGN fuse was blown in the Drivers side Under the dash???
and OK.you got the tach jumpin..That means something is right..lol!
START UP:do this for ***** and giggles.:..Take Spark plugs out.Clean them OR replace them..Take out EGI FUSE..roll engine over for about 10 seconds with the Plugs OUT..Squirt in a shot of Oil.in each hole.Roll engine over about 3 seconds..(wipe oil off from around plug holes)..put Spark plugs back IN.plugs wires back on..EGI fuse back IN,Try to start car.Do not put your foot on the gas pedal.

sercho

iTrader: (5)

Sorry been away on some unexpected bullshit. Anywho, to the post above, the car does not spin over so we needa solve that first. Getting my starter rebuilt as we speak and gonna get the battery load tested. I do have another random question tho. Theres quite a bit of shady **** goin on with the engine wiring and i noticed that the alt may or may not be plugged into the right spot on the harness. First time workin with a t2 so idk.

Heres the plug im talking about


And its plugged into the left plug where the two white wires lead. Theres also two white females on the right where my index and middle finger point. Which one is right?


Thanks an ill keep u updated on the starter

Fupasaurous

I experienced a problem quite similar to this in months passed. So after you've checked all your fuses (engine bay and room), before attempting to even install your battery and crank, go through every single ground in the engine bay (sounds tedious but it does happen to make a huge difference) clean up the copper and it doesn't hurt to make sure they aren't bolted down to a painted surface, if there is paint just scrape it off so its just bare metal. If you did happen to flood the engine prior a few days of sitting would evaporate any remains (theoretically). Install your battery and you should be ready to go given the starter isn't shot.

sercho

iTrader: (5)

thanks fupasaurus, will check it out. still need an answer on my above question though thanks!

HAILERS2

A series FOUR EM harness carries the two wires for the alternator. One is WHITE/BLACK and the other is BLACK/WHITE.

If you have a series FIVE alternator on the car the plug that carries those two wires will not fit on a series FIVE alaternator.

I can't think of anything that would cause the series FOUR cars starter to not spin over just because a series FIVE engine was put in the car using all series FOUR wiring. The EM harness has nothing to do with the starter spinning over.

Look under your TRAIL COIL assy area for a pure BLUE elect jumper plug connected to the harness. If you find it write back. If you have factory THEFT ..............don't look for the BLUE jumper plug 'cause it won't exist. This is related to STARTING or the starter turning over when key is put to start.

The two white plugs you asked about...............you have to tell us the color of the wires in those two plugs for us to figure out what is not connected up. NOT related to the starter not spinning.

Turn key to ON only. Then turn the turn signals on and or the wipers. IF either of those two items work, then we KNOW the ignition switch is getting power from the engine bay. Ignition switch feeds 3/4 of the interior fuse box's fuses when key is put to ON or better.

IF that plug your holding in the jpg is a short pigtail harness attached to the series FIVE alternator.............then the stk series FOUR alt wires need to be spliced to that pigtail harness (the white/black and black/white wires mentioed above earlier).

The ENGINE fuse in the interior is responsible for pwer going to coils and ECU ....in a round about way. IF the tach did make small bouncing moves earlier............then the ENGINE fuse is more than likely good.

HAILERS2

No other harness changed in the car? Right? ALL series FOUR harnesses, right? ALL as in ALL.

sercho

iTrader: (5)

Yessir all series 4 harness. Ill get back to u

sercho

iTrader: (5)

Is this the blue jumper u were referencing? And my turn signals do work!

HAILERS2

Yes, that is the BLUE jumper plug that is used in lieu of a Starter Cut Relay which is used on cars that have factory theft devices.

That plug connects two wires in the other half of that plug together for completing the start circuit. Those two wires in the other half of the plug are.......a LARGE green/black and a LARGE BLACK/WHITE.

If that Blue jumper was removed and you got a long piece of wire bare at each end, and put one end of said wire to the positive termianl of the battery and the other end of said wire to the BLACK/WHTIE wire in the electrical connector............the starte will spin over if the connections are made to the starter solenoid.

When you HOLD the key to START, the green/black wire in that connector should show batt power IF the clutch pedal is depressed. You should look for that to figure out your starting problems.

HAILERS2

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+SWITCH&page=2

Page two of the link above and the post by ROTARYROCKT88 shows the location of the clutch interlock switch.

Not all early 86-87 cars had a clutch interlock switch. I own at least one of those.

sercho

iTrader: (5)

It actually turns over now...sorta! Switched the starter solenoid with one from a miata and it turns over but really slowly. We got it to backfire with some brake cleaner but it was really sporadic. Timing's just fine. Thanks