Sith_Lord

Well it finally happened, blew the apex seals on the front Rotar,
I have been through the archive and looked at the rebuild list.
I'm lost. What do I need to order. I really dont have 1k for a master kit.
I was going to get the RA seals from rotaryaviation. Bust as far as gasket sets
what can I get away with. Will the basic kit work? Anyway if some one who has recently rebuilt theiir engine could give me a run down. I really need to do this for less than 800 if possible. Thanks

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Haven't heard of blowing a front apex seal all that much. Since the seal went out, you will probably have to get another housing and maybe a rotor because of the old seal being mashed between the two and thus scratching up the aluminium pretty badly. You could probably get by with just replacing just the apex, coolant, and other rubber seals.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

lol, you beat me to it.

89tracerman

dude theres a test section
click me

Sith_Lord

dude, I have not been able to post all day was getting server errors. I edited the post once I knew it worked.


Anyway, yea its the front, I pulled the lower plugs and got the whoosh x's 3 or the rear and squat on the front. I have another engine that been on rebuild stand by so I will use that one. it was running when I pulled it from a wreck but that was 3yrs ago. been sitting in the garage for awhile. So I figure it will need to be rebuilt anyway.

I was on my way to work this morning in slow *** construction traffic and all of a sudden the car lurched and I lost power. She died at the red light. I was able to crank it and get it slowly back to the house. SO I know I royally screwed that front housing.

Just not sure what all I should buy as far as rebuild goes.

89tracerman

never mind

Edgemotorsports

you could probablly get away with 3 apex seals, for the front (i would reccomend 6- 3 for the rear rotor too) i don't know what millage is on the motor. if it's low low, like 1000mi you could probablly get away with 3, if not, then replace them all. you'll need the 8 cooling jacket seals, 4 oil control orings ( check the condition for cracks), 4 oil gallery o rings the white plastic o ring and black rubber for the front cover, front cover gasket, oil pan gasket, check the apex springs to see if in spec, check the condition of the corner seal plugs, if there hard replace them, check the main tension bolt washers. if broken replace. Hopefully you can aim around 600 if you do the build yourself.

iceblue

If your broke like you say I would take the project motor and see if you can get a runing one out of the 2 untill you can rebuild and rebuild the one you have siting around then pull motor from car and rebuild it.

Sith_Lord

Broke is an understatment at the moment. will the 800dollar rebuild kit from adkins plus the install kit do the trick, or is that overboard? It not that I cant get the expensive kit, I just dont want to spend more than I have to.

Sith_Lord

I plan to tear into the motor i've had sitting this weekend. Is there a way to tell by looking at the block wether its s4 or s5? I honestly cant remember the yr the car was that I got it out of.

iceblue

Yes there is. See if the TB has a lifter arm for a manule OMP and the UIM I balive looks a little more milled out. an S5 allso has 2 TPS's

Ither way you only need the short block and you can swap the front cover plate from the S4 and use S5 fly wheel and be ok.

jhammons01

Do exactly what dDub did in the "13b rebuild kit" located in the archives. He by far put the kit together cheaper than anybody else did. He spent like $560. I personally put about 10 hours worth of research into that thread. Karack, dDub and others put at least that much research into the topic and the archive thread is the result. don't try to re-invent the wheel its already been done you just need to figure out how to use the wheel sitting in front of you.

The old motor that was running is your best bet. The one in your car probably has a bad rotor housing do to the seal going bye bye. A new rotor housing will cost almost $500 bux. You can pick up used ones on this board for about $100 bux. I have a good source for them if you need one. The rotor may be damaged but if the slot that holds the seal is ok then you can re-use the rotor. The Motor sitting in your garage may not have that damage however it may be trash if you allowed the Irons to rust. They do that if they just sit without any lubrication. If they Irons or ok then you just need to rebuild the soft seal and apex seals using dDubs parts list.

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Guess I got lucky, my rotorhousing was fine after the seal went bye bye, but the rotor was fucked

ddub

I spent less than $500 on my rebuild, you just have to know what to buy and where. There is a thread in the archive started by Karack where we had some good discussion on what is NEEDED for a rebuild, what isn't, and where to buy it.

IF a rotor/housing/iron is scarred, though, you will need to replace them and it will cost more obviously.

ddub

Haha, oops I didn't notice I had already been pointed out

Anyways, I spent about $480 I believe, once I get home from college I can look up the whole parts list/costs.



*EDIT*
Just checked the archived thread and my list, I spent about $440 before hylomar and some sealants and a couple other things, it's really cheap if you just look at what is needed in a rebuild. Lots of rebuild "kits" replace things that aren't always needed. The list I posted is the bare minimum, side seals and corner seals and other items should be checked once the engine is open to make sure they're in spec. All of my parts were, some people's may have a couple pieces that are not, but you definitely don't need to replace all of them.