TeamFervor'sSavannah

So the other night I was stranded about 40 miles from home with a blown main fuse cause i hooked up my battery wrong.

Needless to say, I fixed everything, got the fuse fixed, replaced my fuel pump wires, everything was good.

The other night I was driving, and my illumination fuse broke, so my instruments went dark around midnight, but I still had my headlights, got to a quiktrip, and replaced the fuse.

Last night was different. I was at a complete stop at a stop light and drove for about 15 seconds before my engine started sputtering, Died, cranked over for about 2 seconds, died, and stayed dead.

Checked all my fuses, and my ENGINE fuse was blown. Took the 15A from my wiper slot and put it in there... Nothing.

I push my fading lady 6 blocks to the SAME quiktrip.

I'm double checking all my fuses, checking wires and connections, the rest of my team shows up, we're checking everything, I even pull out the back carpet and get the fuel tank cover pulled off, before I come to a realization like Dr. House.

"Flooded"

Pull the EGI, crank for 20 seconds, starts right up upon fuse replacement.

We go to walmart, which is about a 5 minute drive, and the car is already kind of warm, so it is at a decent operating temperature. We get fuses, come out, I replace what is needed, go to start the car... flooded again. EGI, Crank, Replace, Start.

Ok, I guess that can slide.

We leave walmart, drive 3 minutes or so to my girlfriend's apartment, and I'm sitting in the car, with it running, for 12 minutes. We drive the next 15 or so minutes back to my house, so I know FULL WELL that it is at operating temperature. I go to start the car this morning because she has to go to work...

Flooded.

But like it matters anyway, cause my windshield wipers arent connected to the rod, and its raining.

Brainstorm time. Why is it flooding after 25-30 minutes of driving/idling, and why would my fuses keep blowing?

Voltage Reg? It happened when I was accelerating, and when I was downshifting. Could also just be a friggin wire shorting out somewhere...

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Well if you hooked up the battery backwards and left it as such for awhile you can be sure you fried some grounds. I would bust out the wiring diagrams and start checking grounds.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

^what he said...also have you ever had your injectors cleaned?

TeamFervor'sSavannah

Not legitimately, I've put a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank though. Not the bottle itself, but the contents >.<

If that counts.

When I get my job rolling I plan on getting new injectors, unless i can find some new OEM ones.

TeamFervor'sSavannah

What is the logical Oil PSI?

Mine spikes up to the top while driving...

This, to me, is bad:

http://s213.photobucket.com/albums/c...200_145100.flv

Otaku

iTrader: (1)

I'm shocked to see your battery voltage at 12 on the dot. (could be the angle) You could also just have the hot start issue, I had the hot start issue and my car started up cold like its nothing. So, does your car fire up cold fine....and flood when the engine is warmed up?

TeamFervor'sSavannah

Nope, sits right at 12.

And as for flooding, It does start up cold nice, and i flooded it this afternoon, and i had barely tapped the gas.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

how many miles on the car?

Otaku

iTrader: (1)

Last I seen my car having 12v on the dot, my battery kept draining, and having low power gave me crappy sparks which flooded my motor non-stop. Alternator went bad, got a new one, and now I'm doing fine until I re-adjusted to install a new belt. My idiot self decided to forget about the power wire from the alternator and it ended up grounding on the engine which blew my 80A Main fuse. So, because of that my battery went to hell. Got a new battery...(warranty was still good...thank god) and now my car starts up great. (Only cold though) After I drive it for 15 or some odd minutes, I try to start it up again and it just constantly floods.

Then I came across this thread and now I never have any hot start issues. (I didn't keep the wire snipped off, I hooked it up to a switch so I can switch between hot/cold starts)

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/looking-car-has-hot-start-problems-499744/

I just hope this is your problem.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

12 volts is not fully charged. 12.6 volts is fully charged, 12.0 is like 75%. 9.6 Volts is the minimum needed to start a vehicle, some may not start with that at all, some will start with less.

Otaku

iTrader: (1)

12 volts while the car is running doesn't make any sense at all. Something is wrong.

RXnos1200

iTrader: (24)

^^^^^^^^agreed voltage output should be above 13V's on the alt.........

calpatriot

Flooded starts in hot but not cold conditions suggests a problem with the water thermo sensor. High resistance in that circuit is interpreted by the ECU as a cold start, and it lengthens the injector pulses to give a rich mixture for the cold start. if the resistance stays high in hot conditions, as opposed to what it should do, which is go down to 30 ohms or so, then the ECU will be feeding the engine a rich mixture thinking it is a cold start, and in so doing create too rich a mixture for the hot start.

Pull up the FSM ch 4 and check the resistance of the thermosensor at the given temperature per the numbers in the FSM. Check also the voltage at the appropriate pin on the ECU, i.e. make sure the signal is getting to the ECU.

TeamFervor'sSavannah

About 103,600

New update!

My gas reader is messed up. I was on a hill and stalled out and i thought that i had flooded my engine somehow O.o

so i pulled to the side and got it level, turned over, tried going up a hill, dies.

*scratch head*

what in hell, i have a little over 1/4 of a tank of gas...

so i drive on the flat plane of road to another chinese restaurant that is closer...

dead

thought it was a constant flooding problem, turns out i was out of gas.

fix?

also, what oil weight should i use?

I have about 10 quarts of 10W30 in my garage, safe to use?

Edit: It actually was the angle, i was lookin at the video, and seems to be a little over 12v.

Anyway, is that Oil PSI safe? I don't push the car cause i think i'm going to blow a seal or something...

When i'm sitting at a stop light or in my driveway it hovers around 30psi, but when i'm driving its at like... 80-100

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

BTW 12.6 V is optimal for "OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE" (Battery disconnected). While the vehicle is running you want between 14.3-14.7 V. Now I would assume that 7's probably have less than that because the alternators are ******* garbage.

HAILERS

Oil pressure at idle (750 rpm)will be around 30psi and if you rev the engine over 3000 it'll be in the 60-70 psi range. Your oil pressure does not trouble me.

You need to put a meter on your alternator to see if it's putting out or not. Should read 13.5 to 14.2vdc if the rpms are over 1000rpm.

The engine fuse powers just a few things and one of them is shorting out according to YOUR thread. ENGINE fuse powers the coil of the Main Relay..........powers the black/white wire on the two wire connector on your alternator..........powers one of the two coils of the circuit opening relay..........powers the fuel pump.

TeamFervor'sSavannah

Will do. When it stops raining tomorrow i'll get our voltmeter and check the alternator.

I have another problem. The car will start up after sitting for more than three hours, but if i turn it off after driving ANY amount of time (45 minutes, as this afternoon), I can not start the car. Problem? I don't hear my fuel pump.

If i have the aluminum cover off, and turn the key to "On" so my idiot lights come on, and go back to the fuel pump, and tap on the cover, it will turn on. Its just confusing that it doesnt want to turn BACK on after i turn the car off.

Will be replacing wires tomorrow, and got some hex screws, as my bolts are stripped =(

SUKS2BU

Check your fuel pressure regulator i recently had one go bad flooded all the time.

TeamFervor'sSavannah

Ok, so I know it isnt flooding.

However my fuel pump is bad.

I had it out of the tank, and had it connected to my battery charger (lowest of low settings, 2 amps at 6 volts) and it wasnt coming on, so i tapped it against the ground slightly, and it started to pump very slowly, and then i tapped it again, and it started to run at priming speed.

I put it in my car, Stopped working. I turned the key to "on", went back, hit the fuel pump cover, came back on. Getting a replacement tomorrow.

Also, new problem to discuss. Does anyone have a history of their fuel level sender going bad?

Cause I ran out of gas once upon a time, and my gauge showed just a little over 1/4th, and i was on a flat straightaway in the middle of the city. Is the only real way to fix it... to replace it? I just put about 3 gallons when it gets to half to be safe for now, but i'd like my gauges to be accurate O.o

There is no way i'm giving up on this car easily. Out of my three it is giving me the least amount of problems, plus I love her to death.

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

ya on my first FC the level worked for a little while then gave out
i just filled it up every friday(payday lol) and ignored it untill some illegal aliens SMASHED into me
then i didnt have to worry about it lol

i also read u asking about oil, i didnt see a reply
castrol 20w50 ONLY lol but any other 20/50 would work, but castrol hasnt done me wrong
and ABSOLUTELY !NOOOOOOOOOO! synthetic!!!!

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Oil viscosity should be chosen by expected running temps. Also running a synthetic oil is perfectly fine. I run Castrol GTX 10w30 because it rarely gets over 90deg. here.

TeamFervor'sSavannah

I found something on enging fluids that said that 10W30 was the medium, and i had 10 quarts of that in my garage so i changed out the oil and the filter and my oil PSI went back to normal.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Here is a .jpg out of the Factory Service Manual.

Project88Turbo

iTrader: (22)

Two things about the fuel pump:

1) It only runs when the flapper in the air flow meter is open. IE it only works when cranking or the engine is running. You can test this by turning the key on and moving the flapper back and forth. You will hear the fuel going through the rails. The pump does not prime when the key is cycled like many other cars do. There is also a 2 wire connector near the AFM that can be jumpered to make the fuel pump run.

2) 6VDC is NOT enough to make a fuel pump work that is rated for 12VDC. So the battery charger test is not accurate. All that did was make the pump very sad. A better observation would be of the conditions of the fuel pump sock and the interior of the tank. Dirty is bad obviously, and replacing the fuel pump sock at this point would be good. Replacing the fuel filter itself couldn't hurt either.

As far as your injectors go, I recommend witchhunter.com for servicing the injectors. Reasonably pricing and very quick service.

Vince