So my car died while turning hard on an overpass this weekend... had it towed to the shop and started poking around and figured i had no power to my ecu(piggy back not booting up...). found my egi fuse(30 amp) blown so i replaced it and had a look around and decided to clean up my grounds and run an extra ecu ground. car ran great for a while but then blew the fuse... it does not blow the fuse right away and if the car cools down for a while it runs for a few mins but when hot about 10 seconds... I tried to check and see what else is connected to the egi fuse but i'm not sure. I removed any extra grounds i ran just in case and it still blows the fuse. I think I have a short to power somewhere but not sure what else is connected to this fuse... Anyone else have the same problem? or know what exactly is hooked up to this fuse? thanks.

 

forgot... also add coolant light is on constant and buzzing now as well as the theft horn......

 

I've had that happen...it's just a short somewhere on the engine harness.
I wouldn't say "just" . It was pain in the *** to find it but I did.
You just have to start poking around the last area you touched before it blew....any plug , wrapped wires shorting...anything.

 

Your engine fuse box has two EGI fuses. Which one is giving you problems? You have the 30 amp EGI COMP fuse or the 40 amp EGI INJ fuse to choose from.

 

Shorted power wire in the engine harness. Check the wires at the air control valve and the emissions solenoid plugs, and each injector plug. Usually there is a thick black wire with a stripe that carries 12v+ current with the key on to each major sensor/solenoid, and if this wire has cracked or missing insulation then there is your short.

 

it is the 30 amp egi comp fuse that is blowing. The air control valve is removed from vehicle and that harness looks ok. i have a diagram and it looks like that 30 amp fuse feeds the main relay, then the main relay feeds pcm, air by pass solenoid and p/s switch. both my air by pass and p/s are removed and harness looks ok. is there anything else that my main relay controls? or can I run a new wire from my main relay to my pcm? I was planning on a standalone but not quite ready yet... just wanted one more season... lol

EDIT: Forgot to mention, emissions are removed as well and have aftermarket injectors with resistors.

 

It also powers the BAC solenoid and the Pressure Regulator Control Valve.

 

by "Pressure Regulator Control Valve" do you mean the air bypass control valve that is on the back of the intake? Because if thats the case both of those are removed as well. So I should just be able to run a dedicated wire from my relay to my pcm and see if it pops the fuse...

 

It's one of the solenoids which has a round colored tape mark on it and it is used to change the fuel pressure when starting a warm car or the initial startup I believe.

 

I have an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator installed so I wonder if that valve is even hooked up...

 

On a stock setup, the control valve dictates whether there is vacuum on the FPR vacuum hose or not. Does your FPR have a vacuum hose to it?

 

yeah it has a vac line on it.

 

You don't necessarily need the control valve as some have no issues w/o it. If you have it, it would be east to find.

 

my vac line for my fpr hooks up to a port on the intake manifold. where is this Pressure Regulator Control Valve located?

 

if it looks like this I don't have it...

 

Then that makes your rewiring job that much easier.

 

sweet, well I will try and re-wire my pcm power and see how it goes... I don't know when I'll be able to do it but i'll update this thread when I have time to fix it.. Thanks!

 

Does anyone know what systems controlled by the pcm kick on after approx 30 mins?

 

Is the fuse still blowing? If so you need to look over the White/Blue wire that runs from the 30 amp fuse to the Main relay for signs of a short or damaged wire.

 

no I havn't run anything yet I was just curious... thinking maybe i have a short on the other end that shorts when something ecu controlled kicks on...

 

None

EGI COMP feeds..............ECU, split air solenoid, port air solenoid, relief solenoid, switching solenoid, FPR solenoid, air bypass valve, air bypass valve relay, both green check connectors in the engine bay, BAC, EGR solenoid

 

Good info

 

So i ran a test wire between my main relay and ecu so far all good.. has been running for about 40 mins and it has never idled so well... tomorrow i'm going to run the wire through the firewall and finalize my connections and take it for a nice road test! with some spare 30 amp fuses of course... lol. Thanks again everyone ad i'll update tomorrow!

 

So i ran my new wire from my pcm behind the dash, through the firewall and soldered my connections. starts and idles fine but now I have no tach... it was working yesterday... removed one of my trailing wires and I have no spark from trailing coil... I made sure my meter fuse is good and I checked power at my trailing coil... also checked my coils resistance, both are at 0.5 ohms. Also I should have ground because my leading coil shares that same ground correct? Any ideas?

 

The coil/igniter grounds through the body fender which it is bolted to such that there are no ground wires for the coils so make sure it is bolted properly or there is no ground. The Black wire from both coils that have bullet connectors are for diagnostic purposes and is not a ground.