so im trying to buy this turbo 2 motor and the owner is telling me that it has bad coolant seals so exhaust is getting into the coolant system. now hes saying that it can probably be fixed with this stuff called block weld. does anybody know anything about that stuff?

 

your gunna need a bit more than that. its in need of a rebuild!!!!!!!!!~!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I tried that and it didn't work, alumaseal didnt either. The only thing that did a decent job was irontite, but soon after I blew an apex seal. I can't say how long it will last but irontite is way better than block weld. As thejallenator says it is best to do a rebuild though. I would only do the irontite if you plan on babying the motor the entire time and not pushing it.

 

and come on its a turbo motor, we all here know thats not gunna happen

 

He should of just told you to buy some snake oil while you are at it... Do it right or don't do it at all...

This reminds me of my buddy, whom I have good respect for, that "fixed" a head gasket using stop leak (he should of known better). Come winter, he complains he has no heater...

 

Exactly,

I bought an 86 N/a auto engine with fading coolant seals, threw a turbo on it, did the irontite thing, then boosted it up 10lbs (knowing the coolant seals were jacked) on the stock ecu lol.... "no such thing as babying a turbo motor"

 

theres a temp trick that some have got to work. search for it. i forget what keywords, but there is a product that everyone had suggested that done it. Not anything you can buy locally at your auto parts store, but something you order online. Do a coolant flush, remove all traces of antifreeze, then fill it up with destilled water and this stuff.. Suppose to flash weld where the leak is.. drive it with this solution for a bit, then drain and fill up.

 

that is the irontite stuff im talking about. Just google irontite by kwik way. Its the one in the red can.

This is what I followed from the teamfc3s forums

"Irontight -, or irontite. <--- for searching.

I would use the red stuff from irontite. The blue stuff won't work on the rotaries. Maybe for the diesels. Shake that bottle up before you put it in the cooling system. But before all of this....

Flush the radiator. Also pull the plug from the engine block on the drivers side. It's down low in the center iron near the motor mount. Get every last ounce of coolant out.

Fill the cooling system up with 100% water and the two bottles of irontite. drive her around and put about 150 miles on the engine. I went 400 mile over a week of driving. After that, my engine stopped eating coolant. I had a broken coolant o-ring land on the iron that caused my leak.

You might have to fill her up several times with water, depending how bad yoru coolant leak was. I couldn't go 30 miles before I had to fill up. After the irontite, I fillerd up once a week, every 800 miles.

After you run 150-400 miles with the irontite, flush all the coolant and irontite out. Fill back up with water and drive again. Do another flush when you get around it. If your block doesn't eat coolant anymore, you just temporarily fixed your engine. You can beat the **** out of your engine when doing this.

I got another 20,000 miles out of my beater with two bottles of the irontite red stuff. 180K-200K. After that, the engine just flat out fails!

Also consider this. I drive 15 minutes of canyons each way, to and from work. I am sure the engine load is much greater in my case VS the daily city driver. I swear by irontite as it is good **** for dog leggin motors with coolant leaks.

Also #2... When you rebuild this engine, the cooland passages don't get messed up too bad. The flash point on the combustion is what makes the irontite fuse to the metal.

GOOD LUCK!"

 

Buy it as a core (cheap) or find a different motor. I wouldn't buy that without planning to tear it down right away though, and even then you may find out some things aren't going to be usable.