blew my first motor
#26
Rotary Freak
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also wondering how to use a 5 gallon bucket instead of purchasing a engine mount for the stand. Do u just drop the nose in and start unstacking? should i expect things exploding or pooping out when I open it?
#28
rotorhead
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should i expect things exploding or pooping out when I open it?
a set of feeler gauges, a dial indicator with stand (there is a video on that site about using it for endplay measurement), and a digital dial caliper. most of that you can get from Harbor Freight or other inexpensive tool place. They don't have to be super precise. You may need some micrometers but probably not because you are most likely reusing the housings anyway. You aren't setting bearing clearances on a 10,000rpm piston engine. Technically you don't even need the dial indicator. You could just use some feeler gauges to set endplay (see the video) and a dial caliper to measure dimensions seals. Total cost would be maybe $40 max--which means more money to spend on a proper engine stand setup.
Also you should get a set of picks for cleaning, and at the very least some kind of container that you can use a wash basin for your housings. It takes a while to clean everything, even if your motor is still relatively fresh.
#29
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Arghx youre right. Im gonna just take my time and do it correct.
Im planning on basically replacing everything with RA over haul kit gonna upgrade apex seals and springs too. Also planning on doing thermal pellet mod, and modifing the oil pressure regulators
I am gonna by the stand adaptor. Itll make my life easier.
It also looks like ill be purchasing a flywheel stopper cause this front balancer bolt wont come out. Ive tried 2 1/2" guns and 2 3/4' guns. This thing wont budge ive been at it since 11 o clock. Im getting upset any advice?
As for the tools I have every thing availible to me so that wont cost me anything. Just need to know what to grab
Im planning on basically replacing everything with RA over haul kit gonna upgrade apex seals and springs too. Also planning on doing thermal pellet mod, and modifing the oil pressure regulators
I am gonna by the stand adaptor. Itll make my life easier.
It also looks like ill be purchasing a flywheel stopper cause this front balancer bolt wont come out. Ive tried 2 1/2" guns and 2 3/4' guns. This thing wont budge ive been at it since 11 o clock. Im getting upset any advice?
As for the tools I have every thing availible to me so that wont cost me anything. Just need to know what to grab
#30
Trunk Ornament
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It's on there with thread lock. You could get a flywheel stopper, or get one of these.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1619
Have a friend hold the flywheel still, hit it with the 3/4 gun. If that doesn't work, I used a torch to heat it up. I turned a snap-on impact socket into a pretty metal flower before I heated it up.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1619
Have a friend hold the flywheel still, hit it with the 3/4 gun. If that doesn't work, I used a torch to heat it up. I turned a snap-on impact socket into a pretty metal flower before I heated it up.
#31
Rotary Freak
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just ordered from mazdatrix.
Line Quantity Part Number Part Name Price Total
1) 1 49-220TB TOOL FLYWHEEL STOP $22.89
2) 1 MZTX-ENG-STAND TOOL ENGINE STAND $90.00
Total: $112.89
Line Quantity Part Number Part Name Price Total
1) 1 49-220TB TOOL FLYWHEEL STOP $22.89
2) 1 MZTX-ENG-STAND TOOL ENGINE STAND $90.00
Total: $112.89
#32
Turbo vert
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Atkins engine stand adapter is $65 if im remebering correctly.look at your options closely. Theres no need to be in a rush the car wont walk away. just take your time with this whole process and everything should go smoothly. Theres many people here to help you with anything.
#33
Rotary Freak
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Im in no rush but I do have a two months of down time Id like to take advantage of. I did look at my options its the same as the pineapple racing which is 55 but this on goes thru the stand not just bolted to the arms I feel it will be much more secure.
#34
Rotary Freak
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my future purchase list
Pineapple Racing
Pilot Bearing & Seal
Item Number: PLTBRG/S $12.50
* whole number $12.50
Rotor Housing Coolant Passage Plug
Item Number: EP20S $6.95
* whole number $6.95
Stainless Steel Crank Angle Sensor Cover - Ninja
Item Number: CASC-SN $14.95
* whole number $14.95
FC Aluminum Oil Pan
Item Number: FCAS $249.00
* whole number $249.00
Shims for front cover pressure regulator
Item Number: PRSSHIMS $2.95
* whole number $2.95
Mazda Seal Case
Item Number: SEALCS $69.00
* whole number $69.00
TOTAL $355.35
Pineapple Racing
Pilot Bearing & Seal
Item Number: PLTBRG/S $12.50
* whole number $12.50
Rotor Housing Coolant Passage Plug
Item Number: EP20S $6.95
* whole number $6.95
Stainless Steel Crank Angle Sensor Cover - Ninja
Item Number: CASC-SN $14.95
* whole number $14.95
FC Aluminum Oil Pan
Item Number: FCAS $249.00
* whole number $249.00
Shims for front cover pressure regulator
Item Number: PRSSHIMS $2.95
* whole number $2.95
Mazda Seal Case
Item Number: SEALCS $69.00
* whole number $69.00
TOTAL $355.35
#35
Rotary Freak
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Rotary Aviation
Description Price Quantity Amount
Thermal Pellet - US
8.50 quantity|
Super Seal UPGRADE - US/Canada
60.00 quantity|
87-88 TURBO Install Gaskets - US/Canada
118.80 quantity|
2 mm RA Racing Spring Set 2 Rotor - US
80.50 quantity|
86-91 BASIC Overhaul Kit-US ONLY
541.00 quantity|
Item total:$808.80
add 98 for OMP adaptor
Description Price Quantity Amount
Thermal Pellet - US
8.50 quantity|
Super Seal UPGRADE - US/Canada
60.00 quantity|
87-88 TURBO Install Gaskets - US/Canada
118.80 quantity|
2 mm RA Racing Spring Set 2 Rotor - US
80.50 quantity|
86-91 BASIC Overhaul Kit-US ONLY
541.00 quantity|
Item total:$808.80
add 98 for OMP adaptor
#37
Rotary Freak
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Awsome adivice keep it coming!!
I do however run an external Aeromotive a1000 pump and it has been rewired.
I am planning on having all my Injectors cleaned and flow tested, I am also thinking of purchasing a new FPR and sumping the tank and moving the pump in there will just have to change my lines around a little.
James
I do however run an external Aeromotive a1000 pump and it has been rewired.
I am planning on having all my Injectors cleaned and flow tested, I am also thinking of purchasing a new FPR and sumping the tank and moving the pump in there will just have to change my lines around a little.
James
#38
Rotary Freak
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So im unsure whether im gonna go with the full kit of basic kit I guess i have to wait till Get every thing out and start measuring. Im gonna buy a seal box from pineapple to keep every thing organized
#40
Rotary Freak
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Just placed my pineapple order
Pilot Bearing & Seal PLTBRG/S 1 $12.50 $12.50
Rotor Housing Coolant Passage Plug EP20S 1 $6.95 $6.95
Stainless Steel Crank Angle Sensor Cover - Ninja CASC-SN 1 $14.95 $14.95
FC Aluminum Oil Pan FCAS 1 $249.00 $249.00
Shims for front cover pressure regulator PRSSHIMS 1 $2.95 $2.95
Mazda Seal Case SEALCS 1 $69.00 $69.00
Subtotal: $355.35
Shipping: $10.95
Handling: $1.00
Tax: $0.00
Order Total: $367.30
Pilot Bearing & Seal PLTBRG/S 1 $12.50 $12.50
Rotor Housing Coolant Passage Plug EP20S 1 $6.95 $6.95
Stainless Steel Crank Angle Sensor Cover - Ninja CASC-SN 1 $14.95 $14.95
FC Aluminum Oil Pan FCAS 1 $249.00 $249.00
Shims for front cover pressure regulator PRSSHIMS 1 $2.95 $2.95
Mazda Seal Case SEALCS 1 $69.00 $69.00
Subtotal: $355.35
Shipping: $10.95
Handling: $1.00
Tax: $0.00
Order Total: $367.30
#42
Engine, Not Motor
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These two videos might help you with the disassembly and cleaning process:
Engine disassembly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4
Engine cleaning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5A5q61bzRI
Engine disassembly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4
Engine cleaning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5A5q61bzRI
#45
Rotary Freak
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This motor was built a few years ago by Smoking Joe Racing in Long Island I bought the motor second hand, not sure what seals are in it. Looking forward to finding out tho.
#46
Rotary Motoring
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Any possibility you just put the trailing plug wires on the wrong plugs?
I did this once when I first got my TII and it ran fine but detonated horribly (sounded like walking on gravel) once I got into boost.
Lucky for me it was one time on stock boost/power levels and it didn't break anything.
I did this once when I first got my TII and it ran fine but detonated horribly (sounded like walking on gravel) once I got into boost.
Lucky for me it was one time on stock boost/power levels and it didn't break anything.
#48
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Pull everything out and inspect it first. Then make a decision about what you are going to replace. There are acceptable tolerances for the different springs and seals. You could also have housings that shouldn't be reused.
You need to check out www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com . also look through the engine section of the service manual for specs. If you aren't on a tight budget you shouldn't reuse something that is near the wear limit. Otherwise you will have lower compression, less power potential, and a longer break-in period.
You need to check out www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com . also look through the engine section of the service manual for specs. If you aren't on a tight budget you shouldn't reuse something that is near the wear limit. Otherwise you will have lower compression, less power potential, and a longer break-in period.