Black Magic Electrical Fan #150 Install. Can any body help me?
#1
Black Magic Electrical Fan #150 Install. Can any body help me?
Just received my Flex -A- Lite #150 electrical fan!
I replaced all cooling sensors and don't want to flubber this up!
Does anybody know where to wire in the (+) terminal leading from the fan? It ask for an ignition switch source. Also, how do I go about in wiring the A/C connection, with the piggy back connector leading to the "C" terminal. I need to know the A'C's power wire? Can anyone help?
I replaced all cooling sensors and don't want to flubber this up!
Does anybody know where to wire in the (+) terminal leading from the fan? It ask for an ignition switch source. Also, how do I go about in wiring the A/C connection, with the piggy back connector leading to the "C" terminal. I need to know the A'C's power wire? Can anyone help?
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
You will want to use a 12Volt automotive 30/40 amp DPST or 30 amp SPST relay.
There are pins (terminals/connectors) on the relay and next to the pins will be numbers or there will be a legend on the side of the relay.
Wire as follows:
+ (positive) Lead to the fan: 30
+ Battery: 87
+ 2nd ignition (Black/red at the ignition switch): 86
- (ground or battery negitive):85
If useing a DPST you will not use 87A on the relay.
Wiring it this way will switch the fan on only when the key is in the on position, but not while cranking the starter.
The other options are if you are using a Thermo sensor to turn the fan on. Depending on its input/output polarity you can place it inline with either the 85 or 86 leads. For example, if the sensor is a two wire sensor and it makes continuity when hot, the ignition 2 wire would go to one side and the relay's 86 to the other.
Or if you wanted a switch, same wiring:
switch input: Black/red ignition two fron the ignition switch.
switch output: to 86 of the relay.
There are pins (terminals/connectors) on the relay and next to the pins will be numbers or there will be a legend on the side of the relay.
Wire as follows:
+ (positive) Lead to the fan: 30
+ Battery: 87
+ 2nd ignition (Black/red at the ignition switch): 86
- (ground or battery negitive):85
If useing a DPST you will not use 87A on the relay.
Wiring it this way will switch the fan on only when the key is in the on position, but not while cranking the starter.
The other options are if you are using a Thermo sensor to turn the fan on. Depending on its input/output polarity you can place it inline with either the 85 or 86 leads. For example, if the sensor is a two wire sensor and it makes continuity when hot, the ignition 2 wire would go to one side and the relay's 86 to the other.
Or if you wanted a switch, same wiring:
switch input: Black/red ignition two fron the ignition switch.
switch output: to 86 of the relay.
#6
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Actually I didn't know about the internal temp switch, but Jason's drawing is basically accurate (I swap the 87 and 30 leads so that 87A doesn't have voltage sitting on it), just jump the temp switch, if there is one built into the fan.
The ignition switch is very easy to get to and the FC is one of the easiest cars to run a wire out under hood from the dash.
as far as the air condition switch, does it require negative or positive for a trigger?
The ignition switch is very easy to get to and the FC is one of the easiest cars to run a wire out under hood from the dash.
as far as the air condition switch, does it require negative or positive for a trigger?
Last edited by Icemark; 04-30-02 at 11:28 PM.
#7
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally posted by silverrotor
But yes, but what would you tap into as far as an ignition switched source?
But yes, but what would you tap into as far as an ignition switched source?
But yes, but what would you tap into as far as an ignition switched source?
Last edited by NZConvertible; 05-01-02 at 01:39 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally posted by Icemark
I swap the 87 and 30 leads so that 87A doesn't have voltage sitting on it
I swap the 87 and 30 leads so that 87A doesn't have voltage sitting on it
#9
Am not sure about all these relays you guys are talking about. The Flex -A-Lite Black Magic Electrical Fan model #150 comes with a built in thermo sensor. Upon preset temp. the fan kicks In. My question Is what can I use as an Ignition source. And the A/C positive connection. What wire. Although I believe It's green. I haven't checked though....
#11
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
The relay we’re talking about is a common 30A automotive relay, available from any auto parts or electronics store for a few dollars. If you look at the bottom of one, the terminals will look just like the relay in my diagram above. Wire your fan up just like this (but without the temp sensor since yours is built in). I’m pretty sure that with that built-in temp switch, you won’t be able to wire it to operate with the A/C, but someone who knows this fan might know otherwise. Why do you need this? Don’t you have the stock electric fan?
#12
No I don't have the stock electrical fan. I have the Flex-A-Lite Balck Magic Fan model #150. This fan has a built in thermometer. At preset level the fan will kick in. The A/C con. is their for 2 reasons: When using A/C cooling system is being taxed. Also used as a assistance measure If you desire to have the fan kick in when desired, Just flick the A/C on and, you guessed It the fan turns ON.....
#13
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Um, I know all this... I was trying to find out if you had the stock A/C electric fan. I thought all cars with A/C had this fan but I guess not.
Your "assistance" theory is wrong. The A/C rejects heat from the condensor, which is right in front of the radiator. Because of this, running the A/C adds an extra heat load to the cooling system and should never be run if you're having cooling problems.
Your "assistance" theory is wrong. The A/C rejects heat from the condensor, which is right in front of the radiator. Because of this, running the A/C adds an extra heat load to the cooling system and should never be run if you're having cooling problems.
#14
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Ok, I just downloaded the instructions for your fan; it’s really easy and can be switched by the A/C. Here’s where to run the wires from each terminal:
+ - ignition signal, plug straight into the green diagnostic plug
G - ground, anywhere on the chassis will be fine
B - battery, take direct from the battery via a 20A fuse, don’t forget the fuse!
C - A/C, tap into the black wire going to the A/C compressor clutch, it’s the only one
Hope that clears everything up!
+ - ignition signal, plug straight into the green diagnostic plug
G - ground, anywhere on the chassis will be fine
B - battery, take direct from the battery via a 20A fuse, don’t forget the fuse!
C - A/C, tap into the black wire going to the A/C compressor clutch, it’s the only one
Hope that clears everything up!
#16
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally posted by silverrotor
Why yes that does. Thanks bro! Where exactly could I find the black wire leading to the A/C compressor clutch?
Why yes that does. Thanks bro! Where exactly could I find the black wire leading to the A/C compressor clutch?
#17
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
The only problem with that ignition wire in the green plug is that it is hot while cranking which is a bad thing if the battery is run down a little or the alt was not charging it correctly.
The ignition wire I suggest drops while cranking so you can have the full available voltage for starting.
The ignition wire I suggest drops while cranking so you can have the full available voltage for starting.
#18
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally posted by Icemark
The only problem with that ignition wire in the green plug is that it is hot while cranking which is a bad thing if the battery is run down a little or the alt was not charging it correctly.
The only problem with that ignition wire in the green plug is that it is hot while cranking which is a bad thing if the battery is run down a little or the alt was not charging it correctly.
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Riverside CA
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just got my black magic #150 from Kragen here in Riverside ca, i was suprised to find it there for $10 less than summit racing. I got it and hooked it up tonight, the fan comes with a breaker that goes inline between the batt and the B on the Fan's plug input. I did however connect the + on the input to the batt and not the ignition. The reason i did this is when i shut the car off to go into a store or what ever, the fan will continue to cool while i am away, then shut off when the temp goes down.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Skeese
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
65
03-28-17 03:30 PM