JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I've been having all kinds of problems with my 89 vert with a JDM 13B swapped into it. Horrible gas mileage (bout 9mpg), missing terribly, occasional gas smell, etc. Most recently it has begun to idle so rough and low that it barely stays running and is incredibly low on power. I've tested resistance on the TPS, the CAS, and I didn't test coils but I did swap in known good ones with no change. Oh and I put in some new spark plugs

I've got a reman'd FD alternator on using the dual belt pulley with the rotor on it. The one specific for swapping FD onto an FC. The car has been parked for about 4-5 weeks. While it was still being driven daily it was getting bad readings on the OEM volt meter. I was getting very sporadic readings not just day to day but within a day while running errands. Sometimes the voltage would get down to just above 12 and it has never gotten up to 14. Without me changing the draw on the system my voltage readings would at times vary each time I started up the car. I'd drive it to the store, go in and when I started it back up it would have a different reading on the meter than it did 5 min. before.

I was jumping the car today and letting the battery charge up in prep for starting work on my various problems. I notice my antenna bumping up and down even tho the stereo system was turned off and my amps were getting no power.

Youtube vid



Oh that's the other factor. I've got an aftermarket system with at one time 3 amps, set of seperate component tweets and mids, a second set of mids, and an 8" sub. I fried my amp for my sub, so now I'm down to 2 amps and no power going to the sub. I've upgraded my grounds to 2ga. from the battery to the fender and starter, I used 2ga to ground the car from under the UIM to the firewall. I also added a common ground to the wiring harness coming off the ECU. IIRC I have 4-5 grounds going to either an 8 or 4 ga that grounds either to the floorboards where the ECU is bolted down or behind the passenger kickpanel (can't remember which ATM).

Any input where to start looking at grounds would be much appreciated.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

factory antennas dont like aftermarket unless you do some relay trick on it. your antenna is like "ok im gonna go up for real this time.... sike!! back down i go, no wait im jus kiddin ill go up,.. haha jk again!" lol

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...72#post5131072

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Right just use an automotive relay to connect the antennae lead to ground (such as to the chasis) whenever the radio sends the antenna signal.

A simple relay has 4 leads, though some may have more. 2 go to the relay coil and will show a resistance on the multimeter. Connecting 1 to ground and the other to 12V (order doesn't matter) will flip the switch inside. That'll connect 2 other leads. If there are more than 4 leads, supply power to the coil so that you hear a click (switch flipped). Then use a multimeter to figure out which 2 leads just got connected.

The idea is that the radio signal is too weak to tell the antennae to raise, but it's strong enough to flip a switch, and the switch is strong enough to tell the antennae to raise. Make sure the coil current on your relay is less than what your radio can handle, or you'll be right back where you started. If the relay package only tells you the coil resistance in ohms, or if you used a multimeter to measure the resistance, then use this formula: current = voltage / resistance. Voltage = 12, of course. Current is in Amps.

calpatriot

The antenna command in the stock RX7 is opposite that of most aftermarket systems.

Is the missing problem present both cold and warmed up?

Stock ECU?
Trouble codes/
Is the ECU going into closed loop operation once the car is warmed up?
What is the O2 sensor voltage?

Sounds like your car is running much too rich. This would show up as a high voltage on the O2 sensor (more than .5 v).

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I've got the relay on the antenna. Had it wired up right for years. This just started today and the stereo isn't on while the antenna is doing it's little jig.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I'll get back to you on the info I don't have and will start the appropriate threads for that stuff. I was simply getting the battery charged after the car sat unstarted for about a month. I'm getting ready to start doing work on it and it needs extensive work. I've got several issues from electrical, to poor compression on the rear rotor, etc.

But yes the missing is both cold and warm. The low voltage is sporadic but always low. At night with the lights on it's barely over 12volts. The RPMs bounce like you can hear in the video and hover around stalling. I do have a CEL for the CAS and have tested resistance on it and it's in spec. I have a spare CAS, also within spec, that I swapped in. For about a day that was the great fix. The car was back to running strong. Still running rich, still getting bad MPG but running strong. The next day the car was back to idling the way you can hear in the video.

I started testing compression and found the rear rotor has some issues. I've gotten some advice on whether it's a side seal or apex seal, but need to do more testing also am going to try both seafoam and ATF tricks.