bigger front rotor upgrade
bigger front rotor upgrade
Hey guys, I wanted to upgrade my front rotor size, I was considering trying to make a bracket for our factory caliper to fit onto some bigger rotors. Anyone know a rotor that would fit our hubs and not too thick so normal off the shelf pads would fit? Anyone played around with this?
I just saw this FC Mandeville Brakes
I'm trying to gimp out on making my caliper wider for wider rotors. I'm loosing hope that someone would make a rotor bigger diameter without the added thickness
I'm trying to gimp out on making my caliper wider for wider rotors. I'm loosing hope that someone would make a rotor bigger diameter without the added thickness
You'd have to have a custom 2 piece rotor made to get it to fit without widening the caliper.
I'm sure there is a rear rotor off something that may work, but it will take some digging. I have the Mandeville kit on my car and it works really well. I'm using it with one piece rotors, which keeps the cost down. The kit has you open up the hub bore in the rotors, which requires machining, but if you go with the kit I would just have the front hubs turned down to accept the 350z rotors, and the you can run the rotors off the shelf.
I'm sure there is a rear rotor off something that may work, but it will take some digging. I have the Mandeville kit on my car and it works really well. I'm using it with one piece rotors, which keeps the cost down. The kit has you open up the hub bore in the rotors, which requires machining, but if you go with the kit I would just have the front hubs turned down to accept the 350z rotors, and the you can run the rotors off the shelf.
You'd have to have a custom 2 piece rotor made to get it to fit without widening the caliper.
I'm sure there is a rear rotor off something that may work, but it will take some digging. I have the Mandeville kit on my car and it works really well. I'm using it with one piece rotors, which keeps the cost down. The kit has you open up the hub bore in the rotors, which requires machining, but if you go with the kit I would just have the front hubs turned down to accept the 350z rotors, and the you can run the rotors off the shelf.
I'm sure there is a rear rotor off something that may work, but it will take some digging. I have the Mandeville kit on my car and it works really well. I'm using it with one piece rotors, which keeps the cost down. The kit has you open up the hub bore in the rotors, which requires machining, but if you go with the kit I would just have the front hubs turned down to accept the 350z rotors, and the you can run the rotors off the shelf.
I just saw this FC Mandeville Brakes
I'm trying to gimp out on making my caliper wider for wider rotors. I'm loosing hope that someone would make a rotor bigger diameter without the added thickness
I'm trying to gimp out on making my caliper wider for wider rotors. I'm loosing hope that someone would make a rotor bigger diameter without the added thickness
You can maybe put FD brakes on the front, but I think its 1" difference from the FC fronts?
Im also running the ronin kit up front. By the time you buy rotors, the kit, pads, etc its not a simple inexpensive swap but its a great kit. Just be sure to remember extended studs when you do it. As detailed as the instructions are ( I think 30+ pages ) it makes no suggestion of extended length studs
I run the attain kit in the rear which is just a relocation bracket so you can use off the shelf FD rotors, you can option it for RZ rotors they are literally available from 2 sources only and only give 1" over the standard FD rotors
Stock rears now, I run a Wilwood prop valve to even out the brake bias. I am running Hawk DTC60 pads in front and DTC30 pads in the rear.
I am probably going to go to Mustang Cobra rear rotors. They are just slightly larger than stock FD rotors.
I think if there was an easy 20mm rotor solution someone would have already tried it.
You can maybe put FD brakes on the front, but I think its 1" difference from the FC fronts?
Im also running the ronin kit up front. By the time you buy rotors, the kit, pads, etc its not a simple inexpensive swap but its a great kit. Just be sure to remember extended studs when you do it. As detailed as the instructions are ( I think 30+ pages ) it makes no suggestion of extended length studs
I run the attain kit in the rear which is just a relocation bracket so you can use off the shelf FD rotors, you can option it for RZ rotors they are literally available from 2 sources only and only give 1" over the standard FD rotors
You can maybe put FD brakes on the front, but I think its 1" difference from the FC fronts?
Im also running the ronin kit up front. By the time you buy rotors, the kit, pads, etc its not a simple inexpensive swap but its a great kit. Just be sure to remember extended studs when you do it. As detailed as the instructions are ( I think 30+ pages ) it makes no suggestion of extended length studs
I run the attain kit in the rear which is just a relocation bracket so you can use off the shelf FD rotors, you can option it for RZ rotors they are literally available from 2 sources only and only give 1" over the standard FD rotors
I actually have a used set of good 350z aftermarket brembo rotors, just the friction part. They are 13" diameter, and a nice thickness. The only problem is brembo charges so much for their parts, I didn't even try to even ask how much the center aluminum hat would cost. I already know the hardware is $90 per corner!
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You'd have to have a custom 2 piece rotor made to get it to fit without widening the caliper.
I'm sure there is a rear rotor off something that may work, but it will take some digging. I have the Mandeville kit on my car and it works really well. I'm using it with one piece rotors, which keeps the cost down. The kit has you open up the hub bore in the rotors, which requires machining, but if you go with the kit I would just have the front hubs turned down to accept the 350z rotors, and the you can run the rotors off the shelf.
I'm sure there is a rear rotor off something that may work, but it will take some digging. I have the Mandeville kit on my car and it works really well. I'm using it with one piece rotors, which keeps the cost down. The kit has you open up the hub bore in the rotors, which requires machining, but if you go with the kit I would just have the front hubs turned down to accept the 350z rotors, and the you can run the rotors off the shelf.
There is plenty of meat on the hubs to turn them down to fit the Z rotors, and it will be cheaper in the long run to spend the money to machine the hubs once instead of the rotors multiple times.
I used Centric High Carbon 1 piece 350z rotors when I installed the kit, so I had my rotors machined this first time. The rotors are holding up really well. I don't even have cooling ducts installed on the car yet.
That said, if you do 2 piece rotors, you are really only machining the rotor hat once anyway.
I chose to go with the 1 piece rotors and modify them this time because I was not sure if I would stay with the Mandeville kit, or need to upgrade to a better caliper. The kit as a whole is really holding up well to track use, and the caliper flex issues I was having with the stock rotors are nearly nonexistent now.
I used Centric High Carbon 1 piece 350z rotors when I installed the kit, so I had my rotors machined this first time. The rotors are holding up really well. I don't even have cooling ducts installed on the car yet.
That said, if you do 2 piece rotors, you are really only machining the rotor hat once anyway.
I chose to go with the 1 piece rotors and modify them this time because I was not sure if I would stay with the Mandeville kit, or need to upgrade to a better caliper. The kit as a whole is really holding up well to track use, and the caliper flex issues I was having with the stock rotors are nearly nonexistent now.
With the proportioning valve adjusted and the stock rear brake setup does the car feel more stable In front under heavy braking? Doesn't dance around etc? Asking as was looking at the Ronin kit but wasn't sure if I could just do front then at later stage do rear. Are you still running brake booster? I'm also looking at getting rid of brake booster as personal preference don't like them all that much.
I have a 929 booster and 929 1 inch MC in the car. The car is very stable under braking and does not move around much at all. I need to make some more adjustments to the prop valve because I get rear brake lockup before front in cool or damp track conditions. It is near perfect in hot and dry conditions. Obviously when the rear locks up under braking the rear gets a little squirrely.
I am using the Flyin' Miata brake proportioning valve kit in place of the factory prop valve. There is enough adjustment in the valve to fix the brake bias after going to the larger front rotor. I do run staggered pad compounds as well.
With the same pad compound all around I was getting a ton of rear brake lockup and nervousness under braking.
I am using the Flyin' Miata brake proportioning valve kit in place of the factory prop valve. There is enough adjustment in the valve to fix the brake bias after going to the larger front rotor. I do run staggered pad compounds as well.
With the same pad compound all around I was getting a ton of rear brake lockup and nervousness under braking.
Mustang 95R Cobra wheels. 17x9+24. Those are my street set in the picture with 235/40/17 tires. For the track I run the same wheel with 255/40/17 tires. I will probably be going to a 9.5 wheel next time I need track tires.
Which fenders are you using and how much camber do you run to clear? street and track
Depending on your wheel to coilover to wheel and tires clearance, you may be able to get a 17X9 wheel with a +30 or so offset, which may help.
Stance and BC coilovers both have enough room to run 255s up front with this setup.
Here it is on the track with the 255 NT01, which are huge for a 255.
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
ah..there ya go..
I try not to retain too much useless info..but it still leaves some residue...lol!
The rotors needed to be shaved or something along them lines to fit..blah,blah.
But anyways if it isn't good info then I won't try to keep this reply going.
As I said though,some stuff just sticks in your head when you read it and I had to ask!
I try not to retain too much useless info..but it still leaves some residue...lol!
The rotors needed to be shaved or something along them lines to fit..blah,blah.
But anyways if it isn't good info then I won't try to keep this reply going.
As I said though,some stuff just sticks in your head when you read it and I had to ask!
Last edited by misterstyx69; Dec 12, 2014 at 11:27 PM.
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