Mechanic

Quick question, Now, i read a couple of post about this manner, and i am confused. I read the archive about the 2 1/8 nut NOT needing locktite because it is self locking due to the way the engine spins and the threads.

but a couple of reputable members here also stated that locktite should be used, i've searched and that is why i am lost lol.

If i do use locktite, should I use blue or red?

I plan to red locktite my alumiflywheel to counterweight bolts they dont seem to use lock washers.

a little never seize on my pp to flywheel bolt, (metal bolts to alumi flywheel threads dont want what happens to rotor housing and sparkplugs) and plan to never seize all my bolts that i remove or replacing (silver never sieze or copper??)

also while i am posting anyway a question came up, i know i have to lightly coat input shaft with grease and where the thowout bearing rides, and the pivit point and the fork yada yada yada...

wouldnt the grease get on the clutch over time? or a light coat doesnt hurt?

and the pilot bearing... do i pack that with grease too?

sorry for the probably pretty noob question, i'm doing a 5 spd swap on a car, and want to make it as close to right as possible (excluding the actual mount, i am making modified v8killa adapters for cost effective and lack of welding skill at all reason... lol.)

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

Blue locktite on 54mm nut
Grease the pilot bearing.

RETed

NO.
I use whatever is handy at the moment.
Red or blue doesn't matter that much to me.
The impact gun will take either off in a jiffy.


Doesn't matter - use whatever is convenient.
The only difference is heat rating?


"Light", yes.
Don't slather it on!


Light? Yes.
DON'T "pack" it!



-Ted

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Replace the pilot bearing, grease, and install a new pilot bearing seal. Use loctite, see above. Also supposed to put a dab of sealant around the nut flange. See FSM, in my sig.

Mechanic

thanks reted, you are a savior! and everyone else lol.

anyway

define sealant? i dont have fsm. but ill look it up online one day. (does the loctite thread sealant count? or scilicone.?)

Thanks everybody.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Let me check here...chapter 1, page 62 of the 88 FSM.

"5. Apply a coat of sealant to the contact surface of the lock nut."

I'd use some high temp RTV Silicone.

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

How about now? He even tells you the link is in his sig.

Jesus Christ on a stick!

Mechanic

thanks pfsantos, you've been a great help, i really appreciate it.


thanks f.c.3s, i dont know what i would do without your comment. hehehe



i hope i dont sound stupid for asking this -=x lol i normally dont service clutches and transmission in general... this white grease ta no2 or equivilant organic molybdeum grease... now.. i have a tub of neo synthetic multi purpose grease... is that considered an equivilant? all i ever use at the shop is mp grease. lol... any insights? this grease is available at mazdatrix, "claims" to be good low temp to 500* protection... i dont know what else is good about it.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Removal and installation of the flywheel is well covered in the FAQ, for future reference.

RETed

"Moly" grease is the preferred chemical to use with bearings or anything taking a load.
I typically don't use white lithium on applications like that.
I think WL grease is best used for stuff that sees a lot of moisture or water exposure?
WL grease is supposed to "hold" better to surfaces, but the moly grease is better for load bearing applications.

Yes, any of the "synth" greases (including your Neo - I prefer Redline or Royal Purple stuff myself) are equivalent and actually superior than your plain-jane moly grease.

Hope that helps!


-Ted

Mechanic

thanks a million for all help offered, and enlightenment.