2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 01-16-04, 02:34 PM
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big bolt

alright so i was tearing down one of the two 13b's i have and ended up discovering a big *** bolt that holds the fly wheel on... i didnt have anything to fit it. anyone know what size it is so i dont have to guess?

and when i go to remove it... how should i do it? i discovered if you turn the flywheel counter clockwise for a couple of turns the motor seems to lock up and give enough tension to possibly loosen it. is this the proper way to do that? or am i gonna break somethin?
Old 01-16-04, 02:36 PM
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2 1/8th or 54MM socket. You will need an impact wrench too. It took me a while to get my core engine's nut off.
Old 01-16-04, 02:39 PM
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2-1/8" socket...use an impact to take it off...otherwise u need to be able to breakloose 300+ftlbs....That is not an easy task--unless you have the right tools(ie: flywheel holder and a big wrench)!
Old 01-16-04, 02:51 PM
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so if i just turn the nut counter clockwise really hard i am going to break something inside? and should use something to hold the fly wheel still whilst i crank on it?

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Old 01-16-04, 04:32 PM
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i don't think you'll break anything, but you will need something to hold the flywheel.

john
Old 01-16-04, 05:34 PM
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start liftin......
Old 01-16-04, 05:36 PM
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get an impact wrench... you know you want one
Old 01-16-04, 06:05 PM
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I recently had to tear down my engine and a "donor" engine, and couldn't believe how easy both were. I used the Mazdatrix bar flywheel holder, and the Racing Beat flywheel bolt removal tool. Just took a few seconds of pushing and it loosened right off. Then another minute of the puller and the flywheel came off.

You will need something to hold the flywheel while you break that bolt loose. If something is seizing up the engine, the application of 300+ pound-feet of torque is gonna mess it up if you don't lock the flywheel.
Old 01-16-04, 06:35 PM
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Technically it is a "nut" not a bolt!

If you look in the FSM, the correct way to stop the flywheel from turning whilst trying to remove said nut is with a service tool known as a flywheel brake.

Actually quite easy to make, I did and does it ever save a lot of greif!
Old 01-16-04, 06:39 PM
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They have special tools for removing flywheel, as posted above. I wouldn't do it without those tools as you can **** your engine up lol!
Old 01-16-04, 11:28 PM
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thanks for the replies
Old 01-16-04, 11:49 PM
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STOP, don't use what ever is keeping the engine from tuning over as a brake, something in side is wrong, the brake tool is nice but not needed, like some one already said get a impact wrench,and 2.125" shocket and a larg soft hammer, hit the outter part ot the fly real hard and the fly wheel will come rite off no damege, a puller of this size is hard to come by these tools are a must if you are going to be working on your own engines
Old 01-17-04, 02:34 PM
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well bollocks.... something inside is wrong aye? i can probably get by with out a puller. i have an idea for how to do it... it involves a large plumbers wrench and a big *** steel cheater bar.
Old 01-17-04, 02:58 PM
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yes, something inside is broken if it won't move at a certain point.

To hold the flywheel still I just tied a couple pieces of simple wire to a bolt on the engine housing and a couple bolts for the pressurs plate on the flywheel. wraped it around the bolt, then tightened the bolt down so the wire was streched straight. worked like a charm.
Old 01-17-04, 03:12 PM
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Wow.. took long enough for somebody to say that!! There is absolutely something wrong inside your engine...
Um, do you have a manual?? If you do, have you even read it??
By what you were saying about turning the flywheel to "tighten it up"It doesn't sound like you have a very comprehensive grasp of how the engine works.. why would it lock up after rotating a few turns?? I don't mean any offense by any of this, but you'll save youself a HUGE headache, a lot of time, a potentially a lot of money if you take the time to read the manual, maybe a rebuild video, etc.
The rotary engine is not a complicated engine, but a very finicky one, there is a proper way to do a number of internal processes, and incorrect methods will result in a very short lived or leaky engine. Not fun to start up and engine for the first time after spending 20 hours to rebuild and install an engine, to find that it's smoking oil or blowing through coolant.
Old 01-17-04, 11:18 PM
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well thats all cool bam bam, but i dont give a **** about this motor... i just want the rotor out of it so i can use it as a display. however i have another 13b out of a 91 that turns totally freely, which i do care about. so thanks for your input. i realize these motors arent very complex. i dont have a manual, but will be getting one soon. despite what you may think im not a complete moron. ive worked on lots of engines... just never a rotary.
Old 01-18-04, 01:28 AM
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i've used a coal chisel and a ball peen hammer and it cam right off
Old 01-18-04, 02:53 AM
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Naw, I dont' think you are a moron.. well maybe a bit .. I'm just trying to help you out.. I'd hate to see someone tackle an engine rebuild blindfolded.. there a quite a few things that even the greatest amount of common sense woulnd't get you through successfully.
Talk about a headache! You don't want to deal with it- trust me!
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