big bolt
#1
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big bolt
alright so i was tearing down one of the two 13b's i have and ended up discovering a big *** bolt that holds the fly wheel on... i didnt have anything to fit it. anyone know what size it is so i dont have to guess?
and when i go to remove it... how should i do it? i discovered if you turn the flywheel counter clockwise for a couple of turns the motor seems to lock up and give enough tension to possibly loosen it. is this the proper way to do that? or am i gonna break somethin?
and when i go to remove it... how should i do it? i discovered if you turn the flywheel counter clockwise for a couple of turns the motor seems to lock up and give enough tension to possibly loosen it. is this the proper way to do that? or am i gonna break somethin?
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so if i just turn the nut counter clockwise really hard i am going to break something inside? and should use something to hold the fly wheel still whilst i crank on it?
Last edited by JapandaAE86; 01-16-04 at 02:56 PM.
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#8
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I recently had to tear down my engine and a "donor" engine, and couldn't believe how easy both were. I used the Mazdatrix bar flywheel holder, and the Racing Beat flywheel bolt removal tool. Just took a few seconds of pushing and it loosened right off. Then another minute of the puller and the flywheel came off.
You will need something to hold the flywheel while you break that bolt loose. If something is seizing up the engine, the application of 300+ pound-feet of torque is gonna mess it up if you don't lock the flywheel.
You will need something to hold the flywheel while you break that bolt loose. If something is seizing up the engine, the application of 300+ pound-feet of torque is gonna mess it up if you don't lock the flywheel.
#9
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Technically it is a "nut" not a bolt!
If you look in the FSM, the correct way to stop the flywheel from turning whilst trying to remove said nut is with a service tool known as a flywheel brake.
Actually quite easy to make, I did and does it ever save a lot of greif!
If you look in the FSM, the correct way to stop the flywheel from turning whilst trying to remove said nut is with a service tool known as a flywheel brake.
Actually quite easy to make, I did and does it ever save a lot of greif!
#12
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STOP, don't use what ever is keeping the engine from tuning over as a brake, something in side is wrong, the brake tool is nice but not needed, like some one already said get a impact wrench,and 2.125" shocket and a larg soft hammer, hit the outter part ot the fly real hard and the fly wheel will come rite off no damege, a puller of this size is hard to come by these tools are a must if you are going to be working on your own engines
#13
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well bollocks.... something inside is wrong aye? i can probably get by with out a puller. i have an idea for how to do it... it involves a large plumbers wrench and a big *** steel cheater bar.
#14
yes, something inside is broken if it won't move at a certain point.
To hold the flywheel still I just tied a couple pieces of simple wire to a bolt on the engine housing and a couple bolts for the pressurs plate on the flywheel. wraped it around the bolt, then tightened the bolt down so the wire was streched straight. worked like a charm.
To hold the flywheel still I just tied a couple pieces of simple wire to a bolt on the engine housing and a couple bolts for the pressurs plate on the flywheel. wraped it around the bolt, then tightened the bolt down so the wire was streched straight. worked like a charm.
#15
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Wow.. took long enough for somebody to say that!! There is absolutely something wrong inside your engine...
Um, do you have a manual?? If you do, have you even read it??
By what you were saying about turning the flywheel to "tighten it up"It doesn't sound like you have a very comprehensive grasp of how the engine works.. why would it lock up after rotating a few turns?? I don't mean any offense by any of this, but you'll save youself a HUGE headache, a lot of time, a potentially a lot of money if you take the time to read the manual, maybe a rebuild video, etc.
The rotary engine is not a complicated engine, but a very finicky one, there is a proper way to do a number of internal processes, and incorrect methods will result in a very short lived or leaky engine. Not fun to start up and engine for the first time after spending 20 hours to rebuild and install an engine, to find that it's smoking oil or blowing through coolant.
Um, do you have a manual?? If you do, have you even read it??
By what you were saying about turning the flywheel to "tighten it up"It doesn't sound like you have a very comprehensive grasp of how the engine works.. why would it lock up after rotating a few turns?? I don't mean any offense by any of this, but you'll save youself a HUGE headache, a lot of time, a potentially a lot of money if you take the time to read the manual, maybe a rebuild video, etc.
The rotary engine is not a complicated engine, but a very finicky one, there is a proper way to do a number of internal processes, and incorrect methods will result in a very short lived or leaky engine. Not fun to start up and engine for the first time after spending 20 hours to rebuild and install an engine, to find that it's smoking oil or blowing through coolant.
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well thats all cool bam bam, but i dont give a **** about this motor... i just want the rotor out of it so i can use it as a display. however i have another 13b out of a 91 that turns totally freely, which i do care about. so thanks for your input. i realize these motors arent very complex. i dont have a manual, but will be getting one soon. despite what you may think im not a complete moron. ive worked on lots of engines... just never a rotary.
#18
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Naw, I dont' think you are a moron.. well maybe a bit .. I'm just trying to help you out.. I'd hate to see someone tackle an engine rebuild blindfolded.. there a quite a few things that even the greatest amount of common sense woulnd't get you through successfully.
Talk about a headache! You don't want to deal with it- trust me!
Talk about a headache! You don't want to deal with it- trust me!
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