rx7mcd

I've been doin a lot of research from here and rotorwik and I'm trying the find the best way to change my spark plus. I've seen that people have said that removing the throttle body made it a hell of a lot easier to do, but is there another way without doin that?

InGroundEffect

Why would you remove the TB to replace spark plugs. There is no magic to it on a Rotary. They are super easy to get to. Really it is less than 2 minutes a plug and you don't have to remove anything other than the plug wires to get to them.

The only way to make it easier is to have a Non Power steering car.

Wizz

I hope your kidding, right?

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Well I would take out the 5 bolts holding the engine to the tranny, take off the 2 motor mount bolts and unhook the wiring harness from the ECU. Then pull the engine from the engine bay. Take off the lim and corresponding UIM, then take the flywheel off. Take off the front cover and then ... ...

wait.. cant you just ..take the spark plugs out ...without doing anything except taking the spark plugs out?


Do you even know where they are located?

Slowly walk away from the 7 please. Slowly.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

VortecBowtie

yes, yes.... You really don't know jack, or even jill for that matter. But, it's cool man. Plugs are on the driver side. Just make sure you get the leading and trailing plugs correct. And don't cross thread them some how.... and yes it is really that easy to replace them.

Idrinkalot

I need new plugs too....... 13/16 socket right?

micah

Damn.. I guess I'm gonna have to update rotorwiki.

Tiers

I was sure this was going to be a joke...but hey we all start somewhere I suppose.

get yourself a FSM (download) and start learning about your car man, as well learn about the happy search button and FAQ's

wow...

rx7mcd

stupid question then, just wanted a little reassurance in the fact that i really dont feel like messin this car up cause i've taken better care of it than all my others. if you're wondering this is where i found the info from


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ng+spark+plugs

i did just plan on just pullin the wires out from the bottom, but like i said i jsut wanted to make sure before i go and pull **** apart.
i see it was for the fds and done from the top.....

sorry for the waste of time.

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

well just so you know the guy in that post has a 93, perhaps thats different never seen under the hood of a FD myself, but your 91 should be a quick and easy swap, just do one plug at a time, make sure you put the Lead plugs in the holes with an L by them and the trailing plugs in the holes with the T by them, if you are not sure which is which ask the parts store, and write and L and a T on the box they give you the plugs in, I have also never seen under the hood of a vert but I can assume its the same as a regular FC, if you mix up the wires it could be bad, make sure you do one at a time, download the FSM and mark your coils if you have to

johnmasters

An easy way to remember (L)eading and (T)railing position...

(L)=Lower
(T)=Top

03/08/87

Changed mine out today, what an odd looking plug. Actually the first one I removed fell to the ground and I thought it broke the core off the top like on the 'normal' plugs.

My dad always says one at a time, but didn't seem to apply today because the wires are in the way. So, label them and write it down so you cannot screw it up.

Actually, the hardest part was removing the holder for the plug wires.

Also, I like to work some oil on the plug threads and the threads on the block to help clean and make for a smoother turn.


Oh, and don't overtighten either. Or does that not apply since its not aluminum?

veedubbed

It is aluminum - the plugs are being threaded into the rotor housings. Stripping out one of those holes will leave you with a good bit of work on your hands and an expensive spark plug change.

daten

I think it's not unheard of to use antiseize on your plug threads.. but maybe that's just crazy talk.

They're plenty easy to change when you've got a manual steering rack and no AC. =)

farberio

iTrader: (7)

NO!!!

Leading is on top, Trailing is on bottom.


Credit: Wikipedia
(And I got it from bigbluecan 's post)

RB_eater

iTrader: (1)

.

kynde

Are you stupid? Top Trailing, Lower Leading. It is even marked on the housings. Blue to blue (trailing), Black to leading. 1 is the front rotor and 2 is the rear.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Aparantly I am, I screwed that one up pretty good.

niburu

iTrader: (1)

having had an FD I can say yes that is how Mazda recommend to get at the plugs in their service manual, and they want you to remove the oil filler tube as well
the "easier" way is to go from underneath through the lower A arm

thebigbluecan

My Post Was wrong.............. Trailing is top Leading is bottom!

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Are you thinking about fuel injectors?

phoenix7

oy, I w3as gonna be a smart-*** but there's plenty of that in here already so


L1 = Leading (lower) of the front rotor
T1= Trailing (top) of the front rotor

then theres is L2 and T2 but I think you can figure it out.

Get a deep spark plug socket and an extention if you need it.

The PS and AC crap gets in the way a tad but it is not hard to remove. Once you do it a couple of times you won't have a hard time doing them all at once. I think the whole 1 at a time applies to cars with rotor and caps that are hard to figure out unless you have the manual. The Rotary is much simpler and it's marked so you really can't **** it up. Best thing to do is to ask a MOD to remove the incorrect info in this thread so no one can make the mistake Johnmasters made.

phoenix7

dbl post ftl

evileagle

iTrader: (1)

The reason that is different is because in an FC the coils are large and mounted far from the motor over on the (US)driver's side of the car. In an FD the coils are all very small and stuck right on the motor so you actually need to remove a bunch of stuff.