hey all

tommorow im getting my project FC and its been sitting for 2 years it has NO radiator fluids and all the other fluids may as well be low/gone, no battery and soe other stuff. but for a car like this thats has been sitting for 2 years what precautions should i take in getting it to run and making it driveable?

i got a list of what i have so far please add if you like

list:
flush radiator
bleed brakes
bleed clutch
replace tires
get new battery
replace belts
flush gas tank
new fuel pump


thats all i got so far are there any thing special for a rotary that would help?

 

hope the motor is not carbon locked... do you know if its even a good motor? could be siezed blown or whatever so plan on maybe having to do a rebuild

 

oh and you forgot a huge thing if the motor runs... oil change and new filter plus do these...

fuel filter
spark plugs
plug wires
new air filter
try to clean out the motor... there are threads varying from water cleaning to using carb cleaner in a vaccum just search and find the best one to use

 

check all the hoses for cracks usually when they sit for so long they hoses can dry rot or get hard and brittle.. u also might want to do the ATF trick help lossen up those apex seals

 

oh yeah forgot that biggie

also the motor isnt blown its got 128K on it but it was parked running
and i saw some of those water cleaning threads but what does it do really?

 

well I think what he is saying is that rotarys hate sitting!!! If you park a rotary and it sits for a couple of years than there is a good chance that the engine is locked.

 

thats exactly what im saying... like wickedrazor said you might have to use some ATF to loosen up the seals... personally i have never done this and i hope i never have too because i have heard that ATF eats the seals... there are many threads and wars about it if you feel like searching though i do know that some people have had fabulous results from using it.

 

i started my project car in january, im still no closer to being finished then when i i had it %100 disassembled, but its fun, and good learning, good luck

 

The ATF trick works, it started my car up 2 days ago.. but im guessing that burning anything other then gas is a bad thing :P.. you may want to avoid it, but if all else fails, give it a go.. it may just do the trick

 

This thread should be a sticky, pretty soon i hope to have my own project FC and am glad i saw this so i wouldn't have to start another thread on this exact subject.

anyway... [/highjack]

~Sup

 

had your car been sitting for a while?

 

i worked on my car that was sitting for 8 months

 

ok i guess i can see if it works, you know alot of this project will become DIYs for the forums we know this right?

 

adjust the tps

 

what does that do and how is it done?

 

Pull the pump out of the tank and see if it is complete sludge.

My 90 TII was sitting since some time in the mid-late 90's and the fuel had developed in to a 1/2 inch layer of sludge/varnish. Had I tried to run it like that...

Well it wouldn't have anyways. These fuel pumps lock up fairly easily. Pull the whole thing out and clean it off. If the fuel pump is locked up never fear. Use carb cleaner and spray it in both ends and shake it to try to free it up (may even work!). Clean all the scum off the pump and the float and the sending unit assembly.

If the fuel tank is really bad, drop it and clean it out. I used MEK over a period of maybe 4 weeks to loosen up that varnish. Then I powerwashed it. It worked pretty well.. just took time (I shook the tank every couple days).

Other cars will just run like crap if that stuff gets in the filters or the engine. On a turbo Rotary.. this is a very bad thing if you run lean under boost. Make sure your system is in tip top shape.. FUEL is very important.

 

what type of battery do i need to get for my car?

like how many cold cranking amps do i need so on and so forth, and im also gonna get an optima battery so it doesnt **** out on me.

 

yeah my fuel pump was sludged, and replace your oil cooler lines. they cracked on me. they dryrott in like 8 months i think. if it has no oil going through it. i got a $40 battery from wal-mart. and it works good. i cant recall the c-cranking amps. sorry. good luck

 

i work in an electrical repair shop and i was told that the gel optima batterys are THE BEST the have low reserses and are great, so if i knew the CCA that would be awesome if someone would be so kind as to look at thier battery and look all over it for some info id appreciate it

 

OH also what are the best fluids to use that im going to be needing?

oil 20w50 royal purple
tranny fluid ???
gear oil ???
antifreeze premix prestone
DOT 3 brake fluid (works for clutch slave cyl right?)


correct me on these if thier off

 

for tranny fluid and gear fluid Synthetic all the way if im correct its called Redline Synthetic oil tho its pretty expensive about $10 a quart but well worth it...
TwEaK

 

well arent there different kinda of gear oil like 40w90??? what kind would i need?

 

I used Redline MT90 in my tranny, bought it at Summit. Got rid of my second gear grind. (for the most part)

 

what about GM syncromesh, i know its done wonders for grinding honda trannies but im not sure about mazda trannies

 

drain the gas tank and put fresh gas in.