im seriously thinking about building my N/A up now. since i dont wanna dump money into a turbo swap at the moment. but i was wondering, can i get a car the hits 13's - 14's while still maintaing a respectable fuel efficiency. my plans are basically to do as follows

- complete Racing beat exhaust (header to tailpipe)
- TB mod
- cold air intake
- S5 intake manifold
- lightweight flywheel
- e-fan
- pulley's
- a good clutch (not sure which just yet)
- upgraded fuel pump with 550c jets
- a big weight reduction
- pineapple racing sleave inserts

Hmm well thats all i could think of for now... i got alot of this from the archives but still i thought i would list it.. ive only added power aiding mods. stuff like suspension will also be done. The weight reduction i have done is pretty extensive. but even though i did all this weight reduction .... i am goin to put 2 10" subs a deck and 2 6" round alpines. I know alot of you are laughing but these would be in the car no matter what. I want to be able to go fast ... but i need music in my car for the times im not goin fast ...

O yea before i forget ... even with all these mods, i should still run 87 oct right? i heard anything more on a N/A is dangerous, thanx for the help.

 

Ironic a topic with that exact description is in the archive...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-make-beefy-n-need-your-recommendations-31410/

-=Russ=-

 

If you want to increase the overall performance of your car then weight reduction is a great way to do it. Having said that don't screw it up by installing a stereo with subs. Learn to live without the bass. If you feel you must have the sub get something that is removable like a bazooka(sp?).

Skip the upgraded fuel pump and larger injectors. Have your injectors clean and balanced and check the stock fuel pump. More fuel does not make more power. Control the fuel that is there with an aftermarket EMS(haltech, microtech, wolf, etc....). Pay someone that knows how to tune rotaries(steve kahn is a good example).

The electric fan is questionable as well as the pulleys. They may look cool but don't do much for a daily driver. These pieces on a track only car running at constant high rpm are good to have.

Most every thing else you have listed is a good start on a stock port engine.

 

um...he stated he got most of his info from the archive...so no, not so ironic

looks more like you'll be hitting 15-16 from this thread
https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/took-gxl-strip-435311/

 

Great suggestions. If you want to hit 13s or 14s, the best mod you can do is learn to drive.

Also, if a standalone is beyond your budget you can always run a piggyback fuel controller such as an S-AFC or e-manage, then have it tuned by a professional. It won't make as much power as a full standalone, but you'll still see good results for much less money. I definitely recommend getting a standalone if you can afford it, but some people have a tight budget.

 

Yeah ditch the speaker idea.

13's are acheiveable, but don't be upset if you don't touch them.

You need something to tune the car, whether it be a piggy back (SAFC/HKS FCON etc..), or a full standalone (haltech/microtech/wolf etc...)

The NA Rx-7 actually can benefit being leaned out a bit to make more power and still be safe. With that said, don't worry about upgrading your fuel pump or injectors.

Tuning is the key to make power with stock port NA's.
You could get away with a megasquirt since they finally figured out full timing control with the 13B.

These units typically sell for around $300 new and already assembled.


Good luck.

-Justin

 

True duals awould be the only way to go (single pipe for each rotor- all the way back from the engine, never joining).
, waste of time and No HP gains on a non turbo. Now port and polish the TB, that would get you some minor gains.
Depending on the system probably OK... but avoid the systems that add another 2 feet onto the front end of the intake.
... you have a S4 motor??? Then the S5 VDI and UIM yes, port matched to the S4 LIM. But just using a entire S5 intake will actually LOWER HP.
, yes
No HP gains at all, and a waste of money and time. If you decided to go with this remember you will be needing to also upgrade the alt to a heavy FD one. The only advantage to an Efan is the extra room. Don't even consider it for extra HP.
Proably a good idea if you are building a drag car that is not driven on the street much, but you will have other issues if this is a daily driver and it would not be recommended for anything but a race car.
yes
You'll loose HP unless you use at very least a SAFC or stand alone.
Yes
questionable mod... I personally have never seen gains from them and there have been problems with installing and them coming loose with the motor being damaged.

 

i agree with icemark on the pinapple sleves...i havent heared anything good about them.
weight reduction is always a good mod.

 

who needs sleeves? they are add3ed weight imho.

 

Nobody mentioned PORTING yet?

 

Nobody mentioned the fact that doing a turbo swap and getting the car into the 13s that way could be significantly cheaper than doing it in an N/A and also emissions legal?

 

^^ probably because it's been said more times than anything involving NA performance all over this forum

 

Or maybe because he stated in his post that he doesn't want to do a turbo swap at this moment?

 

Then do a 20B swap, I mean seriously, who are you people trying to kid? A 13B non-turbo just isn't going to be 'beefy and fast' and 'streetable' at the same time. Yes, these are 'opinion' terms, but with how much money you're going to dump into this, you could always do a turbo swap and be better off for less.

 

Porting is the king of NA mods. Then comes exhaust.

14's are totally easy with a good *mild* street port and header, and the car will still get 25+ mpg with a cat and stock y pipe and duals.

 

wow great info, Icemark u are a rotary GOD.

Hmmm i want my car to be very responsive. Im not a drag racer, so i dont want massive hp, i was using 1/4 times as a example. i really want a fun track car that can hold its own on the street. Or am i asking too much of a N/A. I shoudnt have listed e-fan ... i know its not a power mod, but for some reason it made it on there. I dont think i need a FD alt .... alota options have been taken out. untill i get serious about it i'll install my system. What i mean when i said RB exhaust was their Road Race series. i think its basicaly the closest think you can get to duels (or i can get everything from road race series and have 2 custom presilencers (which sounds like a better idea)

the main reason for me wanting to beef up my N/A is cause i can slowly mod it while working. The fact that i dont have a huge amount of money right now doesnt help either. So i plan to do things slowly, the weight reduction has started. carpet, bins, AC, PS, and other things have been removed. i bought a Mazdaspeed racing seat for the driver side (seems like its about the same weight?) e-fan next followed closely by a exhaust ... after i decide what route.

thanx guys ... keep the info goin

EDIT: i forgot to mention on this post and my original that i plan to go haltech, that way i can use it if i decide to go turbo later.

 

Don't forget about lighter wheels and good tires

 

well on my non turbo S4 vert, I am getting around 165-175 RWHP (dependent on what dyno I am on) with semi-intact CA emissions (no EGR or pre-cats, but everything else is there).

What I did was:

Mild street Ported hand rebuilt engine w/ assorted minor tweaks.
Custom downpipe
Highflow main Cat
Single non turbo tuned Catback
Extrude honed S4/S5 Hybrid port matched intake w/ working aux ports, and VDI with operation timing tweaked for best torque and power.
Port and Polished throttle body.
Tweaked timing
Custom ECU chips
Tweaked AFM (although you could probably use a turbo AFM to get the same effect-just leans the mixture out at higher draws/RPM)
CDI ignition with Iridium leading plugs
4.1 rear end with Redline Superlight shock proof in it.
Stock vert M50 tranny w/ Redline Superlight shock proof in it.
Stock BBS wheels when racing, ADR 17 lb 17x7 wheels on the street.

Next step will be either a SAFC II or go stand alone. The trick for me is to still meet California emissions every two years at a test only smog station. And with the intake, extrude honing is not cheap, with parts and everything it easily ran as much as a rebuild kit for the motor.

 

Kiyoshi:
- yea i know ... its hard to find lightweight wheels that i like for a good price where i live. I prefer wheels like speed star, rays, work, hmm mostly jap made. im very picky about mods though. for rubber i'll prolly go with yokohama, its what im using rite now. If someone recomends changing to something else then i will consider it... i will be using tires mostly on the street.

Icemark
- 175-200 was basicaly my goal hp i would be more then happy with 175 though. No serious weight reductions were done right? cause i pretty much gutted my car now and im even thinking about goin for a 1 piece front end (not serious just thoughts) mainly cause i have some bumper damage and a heavy steel hood. for wheels im just going for 16x8's for street and maybe a couple autoX, stock GXL's for fun tires (they have yokohama on them right now) im just not sure which wheels i wanna go with just yet. i chose 16x8 cause it seemed like a good all around size to me. :/

what are your driving impressions of the vert right now? any good or bad info that might be useful?

 

where did you get your extrude honing done? if you don't mind telling.