K thanks so much.

 

Looks good man, its all in the details. I'm sure you will hit 200HP with a AFC piggy back and making your car as light as possible. you will be amazed.

 

yeah once I get it running I will be stripping that fat bitch to a sex stripper.

Tomorrow I'm going to polish the intake ports with my drimel. I'm going to love this. I told a bunch of guys that have an n/a i will race and see how badly i can beat them. Not only that but stock t2 maybe with exhaust.

Just to update people my street ported housings and the solid corner seals are going to be shipped out this monday. Also would like to thanks

(Jorge aka joeylyrech)

This is the best seller ever. Lately he has had some heart problems, and he still ends up keeping his reputation.

 

This is a really similar setup to mine. The biggest difference would be the porting. I used the Pineapple racing template. It took the primaries down as well as up and I went larger on the secondaries and aux. All I can say is that it is a night and day difference. the whole powerband is stronger. Even with the S4 NA manifold, it still wants to keep pulling after redline. I have plans for a Megasquirt setup and a upper intake manifold similar to Aaroncake's piece. Keep up the good work!

 

Oh that will be good have you had a dyno yet.

 

its not really N/A if your using some spray.

 

Its surely not forced induction.

 

Yeah that is for sure well just put it like this but I know people have alot faster n/a's but I want one of the fastest n/a's. Someone just mentioned nitrous to me. I don't want to hurt my engine. Nitrous is like giving a human a energy drink, speed, or liquor. Once you swallow it you go crazy.

 

Nah, nitrous is fine on a rotary. Just monitor EGT's and keep the shots reasonable and it'll last a long time.

 

on the n/a subject, n/a 20b's are naughty, gotta love that lumpy *** exhaust note

 

yes that is one bad *** engine. 20Bs are amazing.

Umm if I did do a Nitrous kit I would probably use a switch and a rpm switch.
Hook up the nitrous to the rpm switch and hood a electric switch to the rpm switch. So it would act like this just regular daily driving wouldn't turn on the nitrous but when i want to race I would flip the switch and at every single gear around 3500 rpm the nitrous would kick on.

 

Oh yeah what is a EGT?

 

Exhaust Gas Temp. = EGT

 

why did you keep the s4 rotors? cost?

I managed 172rwhp on my old n/a, i just wish I had an s5 manifold and rotors. It could have done 185-190 then. But it wasn't worth ripping the car apart with the motor so healthy and I ended up getting a T2.

 

why I got the s4 rotors because it was a great deal for polished rotors that have 0.005 shaved sides. These rotors are perfect you can see your face on them. They where 100 shipped I believe.

The S5 VDI only gives you like 15hp and the s5 rotors are only lighter than the s4. I believe that s5 dont give you any hp gains from a s4 rotor.

 

The S5 gained 16hp TOTAL from numerous changes, the intake alone won't gain you that much. Maybe 5hp, maybe.

You also want to hook the nitrous to a throttle switch so that it only activates at WOT so that when you're decelerating it's not filling the intake with nitrous which can be disasterous.

 

If you want to make power, go with a full bridge. Once you go half bridge you've basically made the plunge, so there's no reason not to go 100%.

Yeah, nothing like huge amounts of effort into an NA engine to beat stock TIIs.

Yeah, it sucks when this happens:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX1-LgDA1Go

 

Good Video

I'm really not saying that a bridgeport isn't good enough. Seriously if you can find someone that can do a bridgeport for about 200 then I would of done it but I already had someone do my streetport that which is amazing for 100.

Aaron I'm really not saying that I don't want a bridgeport but I thought it was not street legal. I also was going to have to change a bunch of things. I was to far into the project to change it but I will do it next time.

 

Yea going 6 port turbo is not exactly minimal effort either.

 

Oh yeah. Which way would be better a 6 port turbo or a 6 port bridge port.

 

I havent had my car on the dyno yet. I ended up having airlock on the first startup and overheating it. It killed a coolant seal and now im back to square one. Even with the coolant seal bad, it pulls like hell. I plan on using S5 rotating assembly and stat gears when I rebuild it over Christmas break. The thing is just to hungry up top to shift at 7k, so I want to play it safe and use the lighter S5 stuff. The stock manifold and engine management are definately a restriction after you leave the stock ports behind.

So someone is street porting your motor for $100? From my perspective, it was more than $100 worth of labor doing the job right. I hope this is just a friend doing you a favor and they know what they're doing. For my first time, I used a reputable template and duct taped the hell out of the oil control side of the port to make sure it wouldnt burn oil. It didnt look perfect, but progressive sandpaper goes a long way in cleaning it up. Good luck with everything and keep rockin the NA.

 

Apparently the RX-8 gears would be a better choice, better bearings and they're hardened. You have to grind the oil supply hole slightly in the rear one to align it with the gallery though apparently.

 

I am the one that ported this guy's side housings. He purchased rotor housings that were ported by someone else. I used the Pineapple Racing large streetport template. Since this is his first 7, with no driving experience in a 7, I felt he should start out with a streetport, get tuning where it needs to be, let him get some driving experience first before going radical with bridgeport and Megasquirt.

As for the price of the port job, he and I discussed up front a price that worked within his budget. I normally charge around $200 for side housings, and around $300 for side and rotor housings combined. I took into consideration his high level of ambition, his excellent attitude and willingness to learn, his age,and his limited budget when quoting him on this.

 

scrip7 does give me a good deal since I'm going to school and I don't have alot of money to spend. This is my first rx7 but I have been around them since I was 8 when my brother got his first rx7. Later when I get a second rx7 I'll probably buy my own porting. It doesn't cost alot and Plus I would like to learn on how to do it. I already no that you do you don't want to go to far down and get into the oil ring area. You need to follow the painted area from the template. That is basically it though so yeah.

 

It's a lot less effort to swap in the TII engine then it is to build a "high" HP NA engine. Of course, which one is a better choice depends on the goals of the original poster.

See above. What exactly do you want to do? Your topic is all over the place with talks of FD intakes and a bunch of crazy stuff.

If you just want a daily driver with some kick, build the engine as you've ported it and do the basic NA upgrades. If you want to go with a standalone, then go ahead but keep in mind that you need to know how to tune it.

If you want to make more then 200HP while staying NA, then your only hope is more radical porting. Bridge or peripheral. Both require a standalone and custom intake setup (though you could cheat and use the TII intake for a bridgeported engine). Bridgeporting requires no modifications to the housings and you can make some decent power when it's tuned right (300HP is probably the upper sane limit for something on the street).

Peripheral porting will make more HP then bridgeporting (350HP....more or less) but you need to modify the rotor housings, build your own intake manifold, etc. Oh, and it will be LOUD at those power levels. Most people would say it's unstreetable.

Both bridge and peripheral porting will result in very low fuel mileage at low RPMs.

Going to a 6 port turbo requires fabrication. If you use the TII intakes then it's minimal, but if you are doing that you might as well just use the whole TII engine.

Most importantly you need to sit down and make a plan, then stick with it. Be realistic about what you want. If you absolutely must have that 250HP NA, then be aware that it's going to be difficult to tune, loud and get crappy fuel mileage.

If you want under 200HP, then just a simple streetport will do the job.