battery relocation questions.
08-15-06, 11:04 AM
#1
battery relocation questions.
Well the first question I have is what do you do with all the accessories you have plugged into the battery? I've probably got 5 or 6 differant things all going to the battery positive (microtech, efan, etc...) what do I do with these? Surely I don't have to rewire them to the new battery right? Also if there is some sort of distrabution block where would be the best place to get this along with the breaker I will need. Thanks guys.
08-15-06, 11:16 AM
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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You aren't supposed to connect accessories to the battery. They should go to a fuse panel located away from the battery which then directly connects to the battery.
In the case of a battery relocation, you would install this fuse panel in a location convenient for your accessories.
In the case of a battery relocation, you would install this fuse panel in a location convenient for your accessories.
08-15-06, 11:35 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
You aren't supposed to connect accessories to the battery. They should go to a fuse panel located away from the battery which then directly connects to the battery.
In the case of a battery relocation, you would install this fuse panel in a location convenient for your accessories.
In the case of a battery relocation, you would install this fuse panel in a location convenient for your accessories.
08-15-06, 11:38 AM
#6
Engine, Not Motor
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Auto parts stores generally carry crap, but you might be able to find something. You're looking for an "ATC" style fuse box. They are made by a bunch of companies but I generally use Bussman. WayTek Wire has them if you can't find them locally. Here's a picture:
And of course, you'll need a circuit breaker as well. I generally use the 150A breakers, also by Bussman.
And of course, you'll need a circuit breaker as well. I generally use the 150A breakers, also by Bussman.
08-15-06, 11:41 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
unless you install inline fuses.
Connecting a million things directly to the battery not only creates a wiring mess, but makes things like a battery relocation much more difficult. Additionally 9 times out of 10 when I see connections like this battery terminals are not of the proper type. You are also exposing the connections to the weather and it's well known that crimp terminals do not deal very well with corrosion unless you are using sealed terminals and dielectric grease.
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08-15-06, 11:43 AM
#8
damn that is alot of wiring! There isn't just something I could mount on the wheel well that i could put the possitive and negative lines in and then have an output where I just run one long positive wire back to the battery?
08-15-06, 11:44 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If that's how you wire your car, then that's your problem.
Connecting a million things directly to the battery not only creates a wiring mess, but makes things like a battery relocation much more difficult. Additionally 9 times out of 10 when I see connections like this battery terminals are not of the proper type. You are also exposing the connections to the weather and it's well known that crimp terminals do not deal very well with corrosion unless you are using sealed terminals and dielectric grease.
Connecting a million things directly to the battery not only creates a wiring mess, but makes things like a battery relocation much more difficult. Additionally 9 times out of 10 when I see connections like this battery terminals are not of the proper type. You are also exposing the connections to the weather and it's well known that crimp terminals do not deal very well with corrosion unless you are using sealed terminals and dielectric grease.
but otherwise yes, run through a fuse box.
08-15-06, 11:47 AM
#10
here is what I have. now each one of the wire covers has about 2 to 3 differant connections in there with the corresponding fuses. Not the neatest job but not the worst either. I used gold oring connections for the accesories just for corrosion purposes.
Last edited by hondahater; 08-15-06 at 11:50 AM.
08-15-06, 05:13 PM
#13
you can also just run a positive cable up to the original positive cable, i haven't had any issues with it but i dislike the idea of a 18ft positive cable however it works and works fine. for negative you can either run the ground to the transmission or engine directly or to a chassis ground at the back of the car and spide web ground the engine to chassis.
this way you don't have to modify any of the electrical components for the battery relocation.
this way you don't have to modify any of the electrical components for the battery relocation.
08-16-06, 02:01 AM
#15
What's the point??
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At the local track they require you to use an external battery kill switch. I don't have the kit yet, but I went ahead and installed this switch.
I took out the stock antenna, and used the gasket and plastic piece. I ground out the plastic piece so the switch would fit, and then glued the switch in the hole, and glued the gasket and plastic piece around that. I then took the key, and cut off the handle of it. Next I cut a slot in the remaining piece so a flathead driver could be used to remove it. I found a large vacuum fitting laying around that fit over the top perfectly. When all is done it looks like a stubby aftermarket antenna.
As for the rest of the process, I plan on mounting the box int that corner of the trunk and utilizing the stock antenna drain for the battery vent. I will use the switch to switch the ground on/off. It will also have a 150 amp breaker in the trunk. Mounted on two taillight studs will be a 4 fuse panel for trunk accessories (carputer, lighting, etc.). The main power will run to the front where at the firewall I may decide to mount a rubber isolated stud to the enine bay. From the bay side of the stud I will run the wire to the front bolt of the fuse box. Also on the cabin side of the stud I can run a power wier to another 4 fuse block for front accesories. Anything wrong with this plan?
I took out the stock antenna, and used the gasket and plastic piece. I ground out the plastic piece so the switch would fit, and then glued the switch in the hole, and glued the gasket and plastic piece around that. I then took the key, and cut off the handle of it. Next I cut a slot in the remaining piece so a flathead driver could be used to remove it. I found a large vacuum fitting laying around that fit over the top perfectly. When all is done it looks like a stubby aftermarket antenna.
As for the rest of the process, I plan on mounting the box int that corner of the trunk and utilizing the stock antenna drain for the battery vent. I will use the switch to switch the ground on/off. It will also have a 150 amp breaker in the trunk. Mounted on two taillight studs will be a 4 fuse panel for trunk accessories (carputer, lighting, etc.). The main power will run to the front where at the firewall I may decide to mount a rubber isolated stud to the enine bay. From the bay side of the stud I will run the wire to the front bolt of the fuse box. Also on the cabin side of the stud I can run a power wier to another 4 fuse block for front accesories. Anything wrong with this plan?
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