battery relocation question
#1
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battery relocation question
sup guys
relocating my battery. bought my taylor aluminum battery box just a couple things that im wondering. What do i do with the old wires (+ and - ones that went to the battery terminals)? Where do i run the new one too? the starter? any help on this would be great... or just tell me wat u did with urs...
by the way 1990 rx7 tII
relocating my battery. bought my taylor aluminum battery box just a couple things that im wondering. What do i do with the old wires (+ and - ones that went to the battery terminals)? Where do i run the new one too? the starter? any help on this would be great... or just tell me wat u did with urs...
by the way 1990 rx7 tII
#4
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I did the same. Ran pos line from battery through passenger compartment and firewall to the cable it was connected to originally. Grounded the negative cable to the body next to the battery.
#5
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same here but it is much safer to run the new positive cable outside the cab. i ran mine along/in the frame on the car up behind the heat shield intot he engine bay.
#6
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You guys that installed the neg on the frame next to the new batt location beefed up the engine-to-firewall ground, right? If not, that tiny black tranny ground is providing all the current for your starters...
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#11
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yes im planning on taking it to mission raceway. I already know wat to do with the negative wires guys... im talking about the positive wires... i want to get rid of the old ones and only use the new ones. I dont want to put the old and new wires together thats just a cheap and easy fix. I want to do it properly im just wondering where i need to run the positive wire to? the starter? or are there other places it goes?
#12
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Make sure to put a curcuit breaker at each end of the cable. I wouldnt run it outside either, with the breakers is plenty safe to run it inside under the carpet. There was a thread on this where RETed had a diagram and everything and said where to get the breakers at. They are 200amp the ones I got.
#13
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You don't need to spend $$$ on 200A circuit breakers. 75-100A breakers work fine, because those ratings are based on time as well. A CB can take it's rated current indefinitely without tripping, and twice it's rated current for ~10 seconds before tripping.Your starter motor should only need to be energised for 2-3 seconds at a time, so there's no need for a CB to be sized to match it's running current.
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I ran new 2awg wires from the batt to the starter, andone from the batt to the fuse block where the original one goes(on the other side of the fuse from the alt.)
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Originally posted by bigtymer
well i really dont want to connect my new wire to the old one... do i have any alternatives if so can u explain it?
well i really dont want to connect my new wire to the old one... do i have any alternatives if so can u explain it?
Dan
#16
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Don't forget about the charging cable going to the alt...
I should have said this before to avoid confusion, but if you're leaving the "old" ground in the car, with the left strut tower grounding clip left intact, and the original starter area connection left alone, you shouldn't have to worry about beefing up the tranny-firewall ground...
I should have said this before to avoid confusion, but if you're leaving the "old" ground in the car, with the left strut tower grounding clip left intact, and the original starter area connection left alone, you shouldn't have to worry about beefing up the tranny-firewall ground...
#17
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Originally posted by bigtymer
yes im planning on taking it to mission raceway.
yes im planning on taking it to mission raceway.
unless you have a real reason for moving it. like need room for IC piping. then don't.
#20
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
You don't need to spend $$$ on 200A circuit breakers. 75-100A breakers work fine, because those ratings are based on time as well. A CB can take it's rated current indefinitely without tripping, and twice it's rated current for ~10 seconds before tripping.Your starter motor should only need to be energised for 2-3 seconds at a time, so there's no need for a CB to be sized to match it's running current.
You don't need to spend $$$ on 200A circuit breakers. 75-100A breakers work fine, because those ratings are based on time as well. A CB can take it's rated current indefinitely without tripping, and twice it's rated current for ~10 seconds before tripping.Your starter motor should only need to be energised for 2-3 seconds at a time, so there's no need for a CB to be sized to match it's running current.
#22
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Originally posted by Net Seven
too bad they're the same price... maybe you should search and find that threat cuz Ted says in there they are the same price and even has a link to the site.
too bad they're the same price... maybe you should search and find that threat cuz Ted says in there they are the same price and even has a link to the site.
plus when your trying to unflood a motor 2-3 seconds is not enough. So you'll enjoy your breaker going off.
You should also never crank your starter for more than 5 seconds at a time or you'll risk overheating and damaging it. It should be left to cool for 30 seconds before trying again.
#24
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I'm real glad you guys don't work on my car...
Starter motors are not designed for continuous running, and have no means to dissipate heat. The longer you crank them, the hotter they get, until something melts. This is common knowledge, and any competent mechanic will know this.
Starter motors are not designed for continuous running, and have no means to dissipate heat. The longer you crank them, the hotter they get, until something melts. This is common knowledge, and any competent mechanic will know this.
#25
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
I'm real glad you guys don't work on my car...
Starter motors are not designed for continuous running, and have no means to dissipate heat. The longer you crank them, the hotter they get, until something melts. This is common knowledge, and any competent mechanic will know this.
I'm real glad you guys don't work on my car...
Starter motors are not designed for continuous running, and have no means to dissipate heat. The longer you crank them, the hotter they get, until something melts. This is common knowledge, and any competent mechanic will know this.
Just a quick question about the starter thing. When doing a compression test, for example, and you are cranking the engine with the fuel injection fuse so it wont turn over, how long are you supposed to crank it then? I've heard anywhere from 3-5 seconds, but since you are doing it multiple times in a short period is this going to kill the starter? Also, I know that one method when the engine is flooded, you pull the same fuse and crank the engine a few times. So doing these things can essentially melt something right? Since you're doing it over and over? Just curious so I don't cause any problems. What do you suggest for that?