So - I had some #4 & #6 primary wire laying around, and:
The hurricane blew by - Sunday is free - Time to move the battery (in between rain showers)

Primary (+) behind the brake booster:


Drip loop at the firewall:


Past the heater:


To the battery:


The last of the #4 along the sill:


Remove the rug & cut the bin frame for storage room & strap clearance:


Terminations for jumper cables:


Marine style wing nut on the ground for easy disconnect:


All done:

 

Looks nice! I have nothing to do today..and a battery relocation kit laying around.... I'll post pics later as well Mind going into more detail about ehat exactly you did for the terminations at the fender? Also, do you not have any fuses/circuit breakers in line at the battery?

 

very nice

 

The origonal ground (black/yellow) strapped to the terminal block of a cheap ground kit I had previously installed.
The jumper ground was just a bolt in the terminal block.

The (+) jumper used the origonal primary wires (black - from the starter & fuse block) into a #4 barrier strip terminal.
The jumper bolt is covered by a piece of fuel hose.

 

I don't see any method of holding down the battery. In a collision, it becomes an amazingly effect decapitator.

Also, there doesn't seem to be a fuse/breaker.

 

If you look closely, you can see a metal strap running parallel across the center of the battery. Im assuming that is what he is using as a tie-down. I asked the same question about a fuse inmy above post.. maybe we just cant see where he located it.

 

This is the only picture I have of mine. I made an angled bracket to place under the battery so it would have a flat surface (I don't trust the curved floor to support the flat battery). Used a generic battery hold-down kit from PepBoys. Works pretty well, no problems, and leaves more room up front. And I do have the cover for the storage bin I just took the pic before I installed it.

 

nice work there. Looks good. I do not know if the benefit is worth it, but nonetheless it looks good. With our weight distribution like it already is, there is not much of a need for this IMO though. But it is always nice to see FC owners getting creative wiht their 7's....

 

Great thx for the pics im going to need this thread soon!

 

My engine compartment doesn't have the room for a battery anymore

 

ok any disadvantages of putting the battery in the back part of the trunk?

and how much battery cable do you need? and which size 2 gauge or 4 gauge?

 

yeah..i want to know what guage wire to use since i have some amp wires laying around...also i plan to run wires to the alt and the starter.....

 

Nice and clean . Saved pics as a reference.

 

The only disadvantage to it I can think of is in some racing classes (not sure if drag/autox/road racing) a battery in the cockpit means you need an external master switch ( Outside of the car so a course worker could disable your electrics in case you are on fire.)

Which could be a little weird for a street car.

James

 

2 AWG wire at least. The thicker the wire, the less voltage drop.

 

dont batteries also build hydrogen around them in use? any small fire (lighter) or heat will make it explode. not sure if i wanna have a bomb behind my seats. or is there some countermeasure already taken that i dont know of?

 

Hydrogen is such a small molecule that it leaks out of any confined space very easily. So it's not that much of a concern unless you just finished SERIOUSLY overcharging the battery, immediately open up the case, and decide to light your cigar 2" from the top of the battery.

However, it goes without saying that flooded batteries should NEVER, EVER be used within a passenger compartment. The only type that should be used are sealed batteries, preferably AGM or gell cells. To use a flooded battery in the passenger compartment, where it could rupture in an accident and throw acid/lead into your eyes is just, well, stupid.

Edit...And even if you are running a sealed battery, the battery box should be vented to the outside of the car. Many racing classes require this safety feature.

 

What doesn’t show very well in the pictures is the marine battery box bottom.
It doesn’t seal as well as it should because of the cut-outs for the tie down strap.
The cover is on top of the tie down just to make it easier to get to the ground disconnect.

Since I didn’t have enough #4ga wire for the whole run I had to finish it with #6ga.
The voltage drop while cranking was a bit much for the radio & clock, so I ran a parallel #8ga from the battery directly to the primary fuse block.
Sometimes you gotta use what you have.
A longer piece of #4 or #2 would have done it.

The primary fuse link is on the battery to body ground strap.

 

Here is mine

 

anyone got a batt relocated to the back under the carpet? is the proximity to the fuel tank a hazard?

 

theres a pic of that floating around here somewhere... dunno where tho

 

I don't see nor heard of use of a main switch and breaker. elsewise looks very nice and clean

 

why though... ?

 

I dont think this will be an issue... whens the last time you heard of somebodies relocated battery blowing up because they lit a ciggerette inside there car?

And as for heat... i bet it gets hotter under the hood then it does in that bin.

I plan on relocated mine soon. but i think i will be buying one of the slim optima batteries and locateding it where the stock jack sits. Prolly will have to build a custom box for it though.

 

A fuseable link on the ground is all you need for electrical safety unless you're going to the track.

Performance & handling secret - polar moment of inertia.