BDoty311

Where did you go to get this done? Im planning on adding an E-fan and S-AFC in the future, and I think I need a more powerful alt.

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

not for an E-Fan and an S-AFC. I doubt the S-AFC pulls any more amps than a cell-phone charger. And the e-fan doesn't pull enough to warrant an alternator uprade.

However, most alternator shops can re-wind your alternator to have a higher output. If you don't know of where one is, call the local car stereo shop, and ask them who they would reccomend.

BDoty311

Ok good then. I thought that an E-fan draws quite a bit, but I have no personal experience from it.

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

A small car-stereo amplifier draws more current than an E-fan ever will.

Scott 89t2

e-fan will draw 10-20 amps.. that is alot for the stock alt

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

still not worth the money for the upgrade ($120 or so)

Icemark

Most electric fans I have seen draw between 15 and 20 amps.

That would the the same as a 50x2 or 200x1 car stereo amp on full power & full volumn every minute the amp is on or a 200x2 or 500x1 on at 3/4 volumn all the time.

Most people only have their car stereo at 1/4 to half volumn the majority of the time.

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

No, that would be the same as a 50x2/200x1 car stereo on full power/full gain all the time... that the car is on and driving less than 15mph w/ coolant over 200º. That means the fan would be on all of 10% of the time...max.

So, you're sitting at a stoplight, and your car is pulling more amperage than your alternator can put out... the component drawing the inadiquate amperage will start pulling power from the battery. Unless you have a s*it battery, you can sit for quite a while before anything really bad happens. Light turns green, you start driving, RPM rises, Alternator output rises, fan goes off, battery recharges, repeat.

If your charging system is up to par, then you won't need anything special when adding an e-fan and S-AFC.

On a sidenote... I had a Memphis HC-50 that was 2x50 w/ a 60A draw muuuch more than 15-20.

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

bigger alternators.

all of you!

88IntegraLS

Hmmm . . . quite an informed discussion has come out of this thread after all. I would like to thank those of you who gave me suggestions to 1) put a fuse on the positive lead . . 2) do a better job splicing and 3) just put a positive cable going from the starter pos. to the fuse block instead of splicing a Y.

All great ideas coming from experienced members whose reputations come not from post count but a history of successful projects.

I decided against redoing my splices because the harness is completely taped and I have had very good luck in the past with the vice grip method. However, if / when the car has starting trouble in the future I will get out the multimeter and test the cable before any other item. I will, however, buy and splice in a fuse on the positive cable to prevent the chance of a fire in the unlikely event of the cable touching a ground somehow.

Today I completed the final mounting of the harness with silicone sealant on the sheet metal screws and inside the plastic loop mounts. This is to secure the screws and harness from vibrating. The pic shows my ground tab and terminal. The Y splice is hiding under the carpet in that shot. You can see how it looks under the carpet (nearly invisible) in my latest update in "pics of an FC paint job".

Psychoblue23

Hey integraLS I was serious.... you should do a NA trany rebuild How too. Then I could learn soem **** and rebuild mine... and be able to Pay rent and still drive my car at the same time.
Anyways, Everyone has congradulated you on your awsome work... but Id liek to thank you for all the usefull info. Its nice to be able to learn so much for free thx to guys liek you.

- James

88IntegraLS

Thanks James. I hate to admit it but I have no tranny rebuild skills at all. Of all the stuff I have tried in life, opening a gearbox was never one of them. I think there are many special tools needed, like inside / outside circlip pliers, endfloat shims, and many procedures to ensure proper alignment of the gears. At least that is what all the Haynes manuals that I have had over the years have said about tranny overhaul. When / if my NA box goes I will buy another one off Ebay or locally for a hundred bucks. But yeah, actually rebuilding one would be cool and I should try it some time. Maybe later in life when I have that LS-1 / T56 sitting on the bench, awaiting the FD fuselage . . . I mean chassis.

Psychoblue23

Oh I totally did not think of that. bummer.... Being that i cant afford to buy one anyways, I am finding it hard to break down and buy a used one. If I get riped off or screwed and it doesnt work, Thats it... Im gonna drop in some redline and hope that keeps it working til I somehow run into some luck and get a good deal.

- James

dr0x

Yah thats what sucks about buying used trannies. Some people NEVER change the tranny oil (hell half them dont know it uses any) in like 150 000 miles...

Icemark

So how many people do you know that wire up a E-fan so that it is only on at a stop light???

Most people wire them up so that they are on whenever the car is running. A few might actually use a themo switch, but from what I have seen that is a minority.

and if your 2x50 amp had a 60A draw, there was something radically wrong with it, as that would make it about only15% efficent, a lower efficency than even true class A amps.

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

The HC stood for High-Current (Cheater Amp)
50x2@4Ohm / 400x1@1Ohm, that should explain the 60A Draw.

As per the E-Fan question... anyone who wants to do it RIGHT should have it only on at stoplights (Fan Thermoswitch). Minority? Probably, but that's not because it's not the right way, it's because most people just want to have a cheap $20 replacment instead of something that performs like stock. When it comes to people using a thermo-switch, I know locally that 2/4 w/ e-fan on their 7 use a thermoswitch (Myself, and our club's president), but he the clutch-fan back in when his thermoswitch shorted out.

Putting in an E-fan isn't needed, it doesn't add a lot of power, it *usually* performs equally to stock, all it does it clean up the engine bay. If you're happy w/ the big black shroud, don't waste the cash.

Cheers!

can't u spot weld the wires together?

88IntegraLS

A couple of pics to show how it looks finished. I need to cover that red that is showing between the carpet seam!



There is only one bin because my car was the lowest of base models without bins or a sunroof. I bought that single bin frame at the junkyard just for this project.

*a*jones*

it looks cool and all that, but it really worth all that work? why not just buy a dynabat to put back in the stock location?

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

A jones... Shhhh. 88 Your doing a great job man!... i love seeing people do all this work on their cars.. i bet it puts a huge smile on your face huh? Man, the front end looks good too. and the paint. Great Fu*king job man.. keep it up

-Markus

"How many people drive a yellow FC.... With a custom front end?"

88IntegraLS

I only take the easy way out as a last resort. "foolish is a man who dwells on the attractive side of things" says the Dharma.

But anyways, nice avatar Ajones.

*a*jones*

that is a sweet *** battery setup. i was just wondering of the pros of it because i see alot of cars that have done it.

melissa joan hart is god my friend

PJ-4.2L

Well, 88IntegraLS, most problems have already been pointed out. I relocated my battery to that same location two years ago. I put a 250 amp wafer fuse in-line with a cut-off switch. The switch has a removable key so it also works as a theft deterrent. Unfortunately, the cut-off is only for the battery and is located near the driver-- will not qualify for an NHRA approved cut-off.

If you go to the track at all in this car, I recommend you DO NOT PERFORM THIS MOD-- Not unless you're willing to purchase a good battery box and cut-off switch-- and are willing to run a ton of cable

One more thing, 88ILS, at taht point where you are using the ruber tubing to shield the shielding, over time, the metal WILL wear through all of that. Vibrations have a big effect on friction. Although you've already triple shielded it, keep an eye on it.

PJ

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

It probably wouldn't pass SCCA Solo 2 tech either. The storage bin by itself isn't really sealed (with a little work it could be done though), and his set-up isn't vented (that I can see, correct me if it is vented). SCCA requires a sealed and vented (to the outside) box.

Just another word of caution to anyone planning to do that who regularly autocrosses. If you don't go to the track at all, then it's a good set-up.

88IntegraLS

Thanks for the tips guys. I do plan on autocrossing this thing and drilling vent holes, sealing the openings in the box tub as well as making a sealing lid are all in the plan. You should see some of the junky relocated battery setups that pass tech in these parts.