does anyone have a good write up for battery relocations and tying it in to the factory fuse panel? if so please put me in the right direction

 

For mine, I just bought a smaller motorcycle battery. I made a box for it mainly to save weight and create more rom for my fmic piping.

Relocating it good to free up space and distributing weight. But after using a thick cable routing to the rear, your spending a good amount of money and adding a little more weight with the thick cable you should be using if you make it that long.

If I were to redo it, my friend has this tiny little battery, I forgot what kind, and it weighs about 1lb, which is almost nothing.

 

oh my friend is supplying the wiring i just need pics or ideas to follow so this wont be so tedious or stumping with the factory fuse panel

 

Here's how I did it.
(Posts #112-121)

 

thanks clokker, now my question is with all the connections that run from that harness thay holds the battery cable stock, what did you do with those, and also did you run a wire for the starter off the reloction? and how did the battery still utilize these stock in bay fuses?

 

Here's how I did it.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...2/#post9653446

 

I used the stock "power harness" (starter/alt/battery) complete, didn't alter anything but where the power comes from.

 

and im assuming it can all be separated once that loom is separated?

 

Yup, intact.

 

I didnt go through Clokker's thread, but mine is the same as Solo's

 

ahhhh well this makes things a bit easier

 

those yard/motorcycle/marine batteries are bad news, unless you like push starting your car on a dark and stormy night.

i won't even use anything smaller than a miata battery in the engine bay, let alone relocated.

 

i have a optima red top, so lord protecting will be sufficient

 

That's what I have and it's fine.
Let the Lord worry about bigger issues.

 

For the record I dont have one of those tiny batteries, I use a full size excide orbital that weighs 32lbs

 

I ran my GTUs for two years with a tiny 11lb Braille (Deka) battery in the storage bin. Even though the car often sat for months at a time I never had any issues with it cranking slowly or not starting.

 

when a problem begins to present itself you will be happy to have the auxiliary cranking amps, even if it is merely from the battery showing its age.

 

i got the optima cause brand new i got it for 70 bucks less than retail and the extra ummmmph may come in handy one day

 

For a street car this is true.

 

Ill argue that what he said is true full stop. Cold cranking amps are something that you want as many of as you can get. Reserve capacity/reserve 'minutes' are another thing you'll also want more of than less.

 

yep, that's basically the same way i have mine laid out on my 86.
excellent build thread by the way

 

If you never drive it on the street, except maybe to get to/from this week's autocross, then you'd be willing to sacrifice those things in favor of weight. SoloII autocrossed his car quite competitively, so I'm guessing he was well aware of the lighter battery's limitations and was able to plan accordingly - always charged, maybe an auxiliary power pack, jumper cables, etc.

I'm all for regular sized batteries though in more general use applications. Sometimes, there is nothing worse than a dead battery.

 

no point beating the dead horse, there's plenty of info out there for CCA and batteries and what should suffice. if you have a lot of electrical loads like an e-fan and stock alternator then it simply isn't a good idea no matter where your tires hit the road.

 

That's when you install a flux capacitor. Makes everything better!

 

Only if Christopher Lloyd will install it for me.