Ok so my car has a hesitation under light throttle that I am trying to fix. I have went over everything.

I got a DMM set the ohms to the 2k range cause the 200 range wont read. I then unscrewed the tps adjustment screw till my meter showed 1019(wouldnt go lower). I turned on the car tried to hold the rpms at 2k but it would keep surging from 2k to 2500rpm to 2k repeatedly.

I then adjusted the screw again, at about 1500 OHMs it wont surge like the adjustment of 1019 ohms. Just has a slight hesitation and the TPS plunger is almost fully extended where its at now.

If I pull the tps plunger all the way in(how it should be at idle) the car starts running like crap like it wants to stall.

Do I have to replace the tps sensor?

 

I believe it is normal for the car to run as if it wants to stall when the plunger is fully depressed. When at normal idle speed the plunger isn't fully depressed and rests on the throttle mechanism with the plunger sticking out a bit from its housing. How about setting the TPS using the voltage method and going from there.

 

Tried that but the motor will surge from 2k to 2500rpm to 2k repeatedly, so in order for me to get it to stop surging I have to have the idle set about 1500ohms.

Car runs flawless from mid to wot. Just at light throttle with the idle set at 1500ohms it has a slight hesitation, the DMM stops reading after 1800ohms

 

I have no vac leaks, afm is fine, dashpot is operating fine, all emissions have been removed. I have no idea what else could be causing this hesitation.

I dont want to buy a new tps sensor and find out thats not what it is.

 

Have you checked to see if it is within spec? Using a multimeter with a needle will give you a more accurate reading than a digital one. If you have a needle type meter check to see if you have a smooth sweep. And how about your BAC is it working properly?

Edit: I have read on other posts that removing all emissions causes higher idle and maybe this is the gist of your problem.

 

Bac has been removed. I only have a DMM, stops reading the tps after 1800-2k ohms

 

Does your problem mainly occur when the engine is cold or under all operating conditions?

 

All operating conditions.

 

My downpipe does have a leak, could that contribute to this?

 

Seems that I have no o2 sensor in my exhaust system, anyone have the engine harness wiring diagram?

Would this cause the hesistation at light throttle?

 

There is a green with yellow stripe wire on the back of the engine which you need to look for that feeds to the oxygen sensor.

With respect to your idle most folks don't condone removing the bac so reconnect it and see what it does for you. Shouldn't be a difficult task.

 

thank you, i dont have a bac to hook up to the manifold though

 

Ok this sucks I cant seem to find the o2 plug, wish the rotary shop nearby would say bring it in cause i know they can put a diff tps on and check it or bac.

mid to wot runs awesome but low throttle its like the car is pig rich, backfiring bucking and hesitating.

 

I believe the wire you are looking for runs through the harness and goes to pin "2D" on the ECU. If need be you can run another wire which could comes directly from the plug itself "or" soldered to the wire coming out of the plug and then run through the firewall where the evaporator drain tube is which happens to be within a foot or so of where the o2 sensor is located on a stock setup.

 

when your adjusting this i hope your making sure your ECU is in limp or idiot mode if u will. this is done by jumping the green connector under or beside your coil closest to the headlight..... wow been a while i think its trailing

 

The fsm says nothing about putting the ecu in limp mode, why would I want to be in limp mode when adjusting the tps?

 

Correct it is 2d, Im going to have to weld a o2 bung into the DP and do like you said trace or run a wire to the o2 sensor.

Would the o2 sensor have a affect on idle to light throttle? If it has no relation to my problem I really dont want to re install the o2 sensor unless it has something to do with my problem or is in relation to it.

 

Supposedly the sensor affects gas mileage. Outside of that I don't know. As far as the screw you mentioned relating to the AFM was it located on the device itself or near the AFM such as the "variable resistor?" I believe the AFM is not to be tampered with but that's your call obviously. If you messed with the variable resistor it should be adjusted in tandem with the idle adjust screw on top of the throttle chamber and in this case the jumper wire is used on the initial coupler.

 

I am not messing with the afm screw anymore since its not my problem.