For some reason I can't get my primary injectors (720cc rc) to seal worth ****.. The leak is coming from the base of the injector. I do have the rail spacer, top o-ring, and bottom grommet. My first set of bottom grommets were from rc. One grommet was split right in half, so that was an obvious fix. This second set was from mazda, they seem cheaper. And still leaking.

So I pulled everything AGAIN, and pulled out the diffusers this time. Surprisngly they came out like butter, they're normally notorious for breaking? The only thing I can see wrong with this picture, is the top diffuser's o-ring's are really hard, are they supposed to be soft? Need some help here guy's.

I'm also running a microtech, and without the wiring not being stock. How do you keep the pump running to check for leaks?

 

There's a fuel check connector with two terminals. Jumper the two terminals and w/key to on the fuel pump turns on.

Post #21 https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-fix-my-afm-924093/

 

Microtech harness, don't have that.

 

Well! Then go to the Circuit Opening relay and jumper the Brown wire to the solid Black wire in the same relay and w/key to on it will turn the pump on and don't tell me you don't have the relay mentioned.

 

Circuit opening relay... Where is this? hah

 

Yellow relay located underneath the dash just to the right of the steering wheel. Has 5 wires in it. Solid Black and the Brown wire should be on the bottom row of the plug.

Pic in post #166 https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/86-tii-swap-wont-start-but-really-wants-887302/page7/

 

If it's a microtech it may have bypassed the OEM circuit opening relay (aka fuel pump relay) altogether. What style of injector you have? Is it an American/Bosch style or the OEM/Denso style? Did the injector look like this on the bottom:



or was it factory style? If it's OEM style do you have the correct pintle cap for it?

 

I have denso style injectors from rc engineering. Secondaries have a grommet on the top, o-ring on the top, and bottom grommet. Primaries have o ring top, grommet bottom. No pintle cap on either injectors. I thought you didn't need the pintle cap on aftermarkets?

 

So wait, its just not sealing well with the rail or with the iron? If its not sealing well with the iron, get some 3/8th inch fuel line and make bigger grommets from it.

 

Not sealing with the iron. Could it be not having a top grommet? When I was installing it seemed the top grommet wouldn't work on the primary.

I had a boost leak tester, pressurizing the turbo and air was hissing and escaping really quick under the manifold. Reaked like gas as well. Sprayed water around the bottom grommet and bubbled.

 

try installing S5 pintle caps, they are $2 each from Mazdatrix:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-MZTX-0003

I say this because my Bosch injectors wouldn't fully seal at the bottom without them.

 

I had the same problem about two weeks ago. 3/8 inch fuel hose, cut to size for new grommet, no more air leak..... I do however have both the pintle caps installed.

 

Thanks arghx, i'll give it a shot.

Tex.. Sounds a little ghetto to me.. I'll try the pintle caps, then maybe go to your idea hah.

 

These are rc injectors but s4 engine. Go for s4 pintle's?

 

Vulcanized rubber is Vulcanized rubber, yo.

 

I don't have a definite answer to that question, but I can tell you that s5 pintle caps are bigger and may seal better. Both are cheap. Buy both and see which works better.

 

does someone have a pic of the fuel check harness i cannot view the pic on the thread... thanks.

 

it's a yellow 2 pin connector right at the RF strut tower in the engine bay, it's covered by a black rubber boot generally so sometimes a little difficult to spot.

this doesn't apply to the OP's question though. he will have to find his fuel pump relay that was installed with the microtech and jumper the wire to the pump to a 12V source. ask your microtech EMS installer where this relay is(it could literally be anywhere on the car).