uhhh....guys how bad do u guys think it would affect my engine if i drove my 91 n/a with about 140k miles for about 3 months with a bad oil metering pump....should i even bother replacing it? the mazda dealer told me it's a 3 hour labor job which is about 230 bucks...and in 2 days i'm off to school with my car...i drove my car to work and back which is about 23 miles per day 5 days a week for 2 months and for a month made small 5 mile trips here and there for a total of 3 months...will the engine go bad very soon because of constant use of the car for 2 months with a bad metering pump? i mean soon as in by the next 2 years? any rough estimates is fine....thanks in advance

 

Ok how do you know that it has a bad MOP? Second start pre-mixing at once if you suspect yours is bad. Go to your local auto parts store and puck up some bottles of 2 stroke oil and pour 1 OZ per gallon into each tank of gas when you pump. Your not helping it by driving and your could make the engine toast. Your best bet is to find a used working OMP for your car and swap it.


Santiago

PS- The 2 stroke oil make sure its TCW-3 certified.

 

If the metering oil pump is bad, then the apex seals are not being lubricated. At least run premix while you decide what to do about the pump...

 

what about the engine's internals? how will they get lubricated? (i know nothing about the oiling system) does the oil flowing through the e-shaft and gears get fed another way?

 

The MOP is an internal lubrication sytem. Which uses injectors(driblers) to put some engine oil into the rotors housing ans lube the apex seal. Running pre-mix is the only other way to do that with a bad MOP.


EDIT: Here is a thread with some good info about pre-mix and some debating about pros-cons. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...mix+1987rx7guy

 

can i use MMO instead of that 2 stroke oil thing?

 

Sure but I don't know if the ratio is the same because 2 stroke isn't mixed with other stuff like MMO. I think MMO has petrolium distilates (SP?)

 

haha, don't call it a MOP.
anyways, i know about oiling the seals and housing area, but i'm talking the internals. doesn't oil run through the eccentric shaft and into the gears?

 

The MOP and the oil pump are not the same thing.

 

well then, tell me more! don't just wink at me.
"you know, if i wasn't so sure you were a lesbian, i'd say you were coming on to me."

 

The MOP is for internal lubrication as in inside the cumbustion chambers. The Oil pump is for the outer parts of the engine like the rotors and that stuff.

 

For the original poster - they told you it's a three hour labor job, but did they tell you how much a new electronic metering oil pump costs? Last I checked Mazdatrix, they were over $1000.

Start running some sort of premix, some have used MMO with success.

And Mazda calls it a MOP, it's official name in the FSM is metering oil pump, not oil metering pump. Eh, it's all the same.

 

For the original poster - they told you it's a three hour labor job, but di they tell you how much a new electronic metering oil pump costs? Last I checked Mazdatrix, they were over $1000.

Start running some sort of premix, some have used MMO with success.

And Mazda calls it a MOP, it's official name in the FSM is metering oil pump, not oil metering pump. Eh, it's all the same.

 

hey, this is a great subject in the morning when my car is enginge is not at operating temp and i drive it and rev over 4k and let off the gas to change gears my car starts to smoke. i know this is not normal is it.

 

Let your engine get to operating temp before you do anything over 3k

 

cars run dirtier when they're cold. the cat doesn't function until it is warm, either. (though a cat doesn't apply to about 90% of people on this forum). don't rev over 4k when your car is cold. thats a whole other subject. i believe cars run richer when cold, but you'd have to check on that.

 

Some people such as myself have completely rid themselves of the electric MOP, and run straight pre-mix. (TCW-3) without any problems. Maybe replace the fuel filter a little more often but that's really arguable, and very negligible. Bottom line is that you NEED that lubrication. If i may, i would recommend that you switch to a mechanical OMP, and simply ground the wire to the computer. I have a working electrical one somewhere.

 

yea i know about the cost of the oil metering pump...luckily i bought a used one for 100 bucks...don't know how good it is tho...i'm guessing it's from a junker..but in any case is 2 stroke oil the same as 2 cycle oil used in lawn mowers and motor bikes? what ratio do i use?

 

1OZ per gallon of gasoline.

 

and also...even if i do premix the fuel....won't the MOP still tell the ecu that it's bad and still bog down the engine?...rite now my engine loses a lot of power when i step on the accelerator more than 1/4 way...dunno what's the cause...i mean a lot as in a hybrid crushed me while not even trying

 

that loss of powah is limp mode. atleast with pre-mix you won't hurt anything.

 

10oz pre gallon? Really? My,my.

 

1 OZ per gallon
lol
just didn't put a space in ther.

 

good news for anyone with bad mop,or code 27 present
or possible good news, when i recently found code 27
i found a leaking mop line,removed the pump,cleaned it very thoroughly,repaired the line,and re-installed pump,
code and limp mode have not returned, not everyone may be this lucky, but it is certainly worth a shot before you spend the big bucks for a new mop

 

tk49....could you please describe ur symptoms for limp mode? i want to make sure that it's the symptoms similar to mine so i can make a decision....i just bought a used mop and got it replaced by a mazda dealer....and my condition of not being able to accelerate using the gas pedal being stepped on more than 1/4 way hasn't gone away...it is very possible that the mop that i got installed doesn't work...