bad oil metering pump?
uhhh....guys how bad do u guys think it would affect my engine if i drove my 91 n/a with about 140k miles for about 3 months with a bad oil metering pump....should i even bother replacing it? the mazda dealer told me it's a 3 hour labor job which is about 230 bucks...and in 2 days i'm off to school with my car...i drove my car to work and back which is about 23 miles per day 5 days a week for 2 months and for a month made small 5 mile trips here and there for a total of 3 months...will the engine go bad very soon because of constant use of the car for 2 months with a bad metering pump? i mean soon as in by the next 2 years? any rough estimates is fine....thanks in advance
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Ok how do you know that it has a bad MOP? Second start pre-mixing at once if you suspect yours is bad. Go to your local auto parts store and puck up some bottles of 2 stroke oil and pour 1 OZ per gallon into each tank of gas when you pump. Your not helping it by driving and your could make the engine toast. Your best bet is to find a used working OMP for your car and swap it.
Santiago PS- The 2 stroke oil make sure its TCW-3 certified. :) |
If the metering oil pump is bad, then the apex seals are not being lubricated. At least run premix while you decide what to do about the pump...
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what about the engine's internals? how will they get lubricated? (i know nothing about the oiling system) does the oil flowing through the e-shaft and gears get fed another way?
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The MOP is an internal lubrication sytem. Which uses injectors(driblers) to put some engine oil into the rotors housing ans lube the apex seal. Running pre-mix is the only other way to do that with a bad MOP.
EDIT: Here is a thread with some good info about pre-mix and some debating about pros-cons. :) https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...mix+1987rx7guy |
can i use MMO instead of that 2 stroke oil thing?
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Sure but I don't know if the ratio is the same because 2 stroke isn't mixed with other stuff like MMO. I think MMO has petrolium distilates (SP?)
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy The MOP is an internal lubrication sytem. Which uses injectors(driblers) to put some engine oil into the rotors housing ans lube the apex seal. Running pre-mix is the only other way to do that with a bad MOP. anyways, i know about oiling the seals and housing area, but i'm talking the internals. doesn't oil run through the eccentric shaft and into the gears? |
The MOP and the oil pump are not the same thing. ;)
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well then, tell me more! don't just wink at me.
"you know, if i wasn't so sure you were a lesbian, i'd say you were coming on to me." |
The MOP is for internal lubrication as in inside the cumbustion chambers. The Oil pump is for the outer parts of the engine like the rotors and that stuff.
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For the original poster - they told you it's a three hour labor job, but di they tell you how much a new electronic metering oil pump costs? Last I checked Mazdatrix, they were over $1000.
Start running some sort of premix, some have used MMO with success. And Mazda calls it a MOP, it's official name in the FSM is metering oil pump, not oil metering pump. Eh, it's all the same. |
For the original poster - they told you it's a three hour labor job, but did they tell you how much a new electronic metering oil pump costs? Last I checked Mazdatrix, they were over $1000.
Start running some sort of premix, some have used MMO with success. And Mazda calls it a MOP, it's official name in the FSM is metering oil pump, not oil metering pump. Eh, it's all the same. |
hey, this is a great subject in the morning when my car is enginge is not at operating temp and i drive it and rev over 4k and let off the gas to change gears my car starts to smoke. i know this is not normal is it.
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Let your engine get to operating temp before you do anything over 3k
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cars run dirtier when they're cold. the cat doesn't function until it is warm, either. (though a cat doesn't apply to about 90% of people on this forum). don't rev over 4k when your car is cold. thats a whole other subject. i believe cars run richer when cold, but you'd have to check on that.
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Some people such as myself have completely rid themselves of the electric MOP, and run straight pre-mix. (TCW-3) without any problems. Maybe replace the fuel filter a little more often but that's really arguable, and very negligible. Bottom line is that you NEED that lubrication. If i may, i would recommend that you switch to a mechanical OMP, and simply ground the wire to the computer. I have a working electrical one somewhere.
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yea i know about the cost of the oil metering pump...luckily i bought a used one for 100 bucks...don't know how good it is tho...i'm guessing it's from a junker..but in any case is 2 stroke oil the same as 2 cycle oil used in lawn mowers and motor bikes? what ratio do i use?
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1OZ per gallon of gasoline.
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and also...even if i do premix the fuel....won't the MOP still tell the ecu that it's bad and still bog down the engine?...rite now my engine loses a lot of power when i step on the accelerator more than 1/4 way...dunno what's the cause...i mean a lot as in a hybrid crushed me while not even trying
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that loss of powah is limp mode. atleast with pre-mix you won't hurt anything.
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10oz pre gallon? Really? My,my.
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1 OZ per gallon
lol just didn't put a space in ther. ;) |
metering oil pump
good news for anyone with bad mop,or code 27 present
or possible good news, when i recently found code 27 i found a leaking mop line,removed the pump,cleaned it very thoroughly,repaired the line,and re-installed pump, code and limp mode have not returned, not everyone may be this lucky, but it is certainly worth a shot before you spend the big bucks for a new mop |
tk49....could you please describe ur symptoms for limp mode? i want to make sure that it's the symptoms similar to mine so i can make a decision....i just bought a used mop and got it replaced by a mazda dealer....and my condition of not being able to accelerate using the gas pedal being stepped on more than 1/4 way hasn't gone away...it is very possible that the mop that i got installed doesn't work...
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