2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

bad motor?

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Old May 31, 2007 | 01:24 PM
  #1  
{fc}DriftingCanadian13b's Avatar
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From: Ottawa
Angry bad motor?

Okay so, here is the deal, Coolent light and buzzer went of, bleed the system, came back on after a day. Replaced my T stat, and T stat housing as well as the crappy plastic access port with an alum one, and new senser. The T stat housing was crack and letting air into the system, I have tried bleeding the system again, but the it boils over real quick, so this leads me to beleve there is eather a big air bubble stuck some where, or the motor is shot, It does not have have the tail tail signs tho, no smoke, (other then start up) no burning coolent smell, no water in the oil, Compression is fine. Is there anything else I should do to test the motor, if the motor is fine how the hell do I get this air bubble out?

Last edited by {fc}DriftingCanadian13b; May 31, 2007 at 01:25 PM. Reason: Spelling is the suck
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Old May 31, 2007 | 02:21 PM
  #2  
classicauto's Avatar
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From: Hagersville Ontario
#1 would be turning on the heater in the car while trying to bleed it. I usually start the car (rad cap off with the engine cold) crank the heater to full, go out and massage the lower rad hose (watching for bubbles from the rad cap) and keep topping up until no bubbling occurs when you squeeze the hose.

Then when its fully warm make sure the heater is blowing hot air.

Another good check for the coolant seals is starting the engine stone cold and viewing the overflow hose in the overflow tank. If upon cold startup it PUKES coolant out - you've got bad coolant seals. If there's nothing or only a couple of drips - your fine.
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Old May 31, 2007 | 02:39 PM
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HIDrift's Avatar
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From: 93311
i would also all the small hoses that goes to the engine and heater core. had this problem before. check for any corrotion and small cracks that could cause future leaks
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