FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

First and foremost, I have searched.
Secondly, car is an 89 turbo.

Yesterday:
Car died as I pulled out of a parking spot. When I tried to start it up it turned and compressed but did not start. When I blipped the gas starting it it started but immediately died. I blipped the gas continuously after starting it and it would idle at the rpm that I was romping the gas to. I managed to romp it in first and second gear to a friend's house 2 blocks away. Tons of black smoke. A push start also worked but required to romp the gas to keep it idling.

Now:
Car turns but will not start without pushing the accelerator a little. It will than idle a ROCK SOLID 900 WITH NO BOUNCE. If you ease on the throttle it will slowly gain revs. If you hit the gas too violently the car sputters and dies. I managed to get the car up to 40 mph by easing on the gas the whole way up to it. A line up of cars behind me but oh well. As soon as I tried to go into boost or when I went up this huge hill near my house, the car started to buck and I had to downshift and romp the gas to get up the hill.

I have a check engine light that I never used to have.
Brand new AFM.
Engine is not flooded, I removed plugs and cranked the car for half a minute, compression is good and nice and even pops. An odd scraping noise though. Are those the seals?
No vacuum leaks. I have replaced TID, all intercooler piping, and recently (2 days) removed the rat's nest. Could a mis removed vacuum line be a problem? I drove it for 2 days though no problem?

Before it died in the parking spot I had done quite a bit of on and off driving and 2-3 full throttle runs down the highway.

Earlier that day I had adjusted my TPS, Cold Start, and BAC.

What the heck is going on? I am desperately consulting my Haynes and online FSM manuals as we speak checking voltages on all of my sensors. It's raining out and I don't care, I have a drag race to be at by Wednesday.

Edit:

The trouble codes are as follows 5,8,10,11,12,15,18,25 and than all the 30+ codes relating to the removed solenoids. 5-18 list all inputs in the engine such as AFM, O2, etc.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Nobody eh?

well uhhh

you probably dont wanna hear this but it sounds just like a vac leak. i had the same issue with having to blip the gas and whatnot but my problem just got worse. check gaskets, and vac lines. something like this is a very cheap and useful tool to have. hope it helps (the universal one)
http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

It's not timing, we unloosened the nut on the CAS and swung it both ways while I struggled to keep the car running. Would a blown coolant seal make it run like this? I blow a little white smoke on warmup.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Could it be the Pressure sensor? It seems to only cut out when the vacuum starts to go closer to boost.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

sounds like an mop. limits you to about a third throttle, can you get to WOT if you ease onto it, instread of romping? can u get past 3500 rpm?( if doesnt count in the first 5 second of being cranked) also vac leaks, and being a turbo is even more likely you blew a hose off or apart. check your tubing to and from the turbo also(and intercooler)

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

I'll recheck everything, but I've rechecked twice now, plus I did my rats nest less than a week ago.

MOP? Metering Oil Pump? Why would that limit rpms?

I cannot get WOT, car dies at about 3k. as soon as vac decreases and starts to near boost. I'd say the car dies at around -9?

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

MOP DING DING DING!
you've had a Metering Oil Pump failer, and now your in limp mode. it limits throttle input and rev limits at 3500 rpm.

tell tell sign... get going down the road, very quickly turn off the ignition and then back on( before the engine revs drop) then floor it, if it takes off and you can red line for a gear or two then it;s definatly limp mode...

i had a vert in limp mode, i always turned the car on and off when i had MOP messed up. but yeah, good luck! check it out for leaks\ cracks\ loose connector...

86gxl_fc

i've got sort of the same issue, i have an 87 though.
at or around 3500 rpms it stops reving and the revs drop.
even when i'm holding the pedal down if feels as tho i'm bliping the throttle and revs up like it also (when i'm not)
only difference is that mine doesnt smoke anything but fuel i'm runnin a lil rich.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

So wait, am I getting no oil? Are my seals drying up? Ackk!! I need to stop turning it over!!

Limp mode can be caused by more than one thing right?

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

well it depends you mop, or omp could still be issueing oil, and the electronics are bad, i drove for another 6k miles with my f'd up mop. but it was still injecting oil but always the same amount( the idle amount, not alot) i eveually pulled it apart and it was cracked and the shaft(motor) was bent, i set it to 50 percent and kept driving, 3k miles later the motor locked up. but i was at 155k miles, think an apex seal rolled out.i would get a replacement, or i could give you mine...
instead of adjusting the amount of oil by the throttle imput it just always lets about 50 to 70 percent of the oil it could, it's rusted and taped togather, but it stopped limp mode :P. just find a new one, or find out what happen to yours via FSM.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

I have an N/A parts car, and I guess they are the same MOP wise. Can limp mode occur for other reasons? What are more symptoms of limp mode? I drove maybe 20 miles after the car started acting like this and it hasn't moved since.

Will a car in limp mode start normally, idle for 2 secs, and die?
Will it stay running if you blip the gas?
Will it die as soon as it reaches a certain rpm?

I'm going to do a quick search on limp mode, so far I have searched

black smoke
starts and dies
coolant seal
idle
mop failure

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

limp mode is only present on OMP failer.
my car when warm would start and idle fine and drive fine as long as i didnt try to apply more then around 30 percent throttle, and didnt try to rev past 3500. i could cruz in any gear at 3500 rpm and it just kinda feals like hitting a rev limiter on a drag car.

if you pass the throttle point it will immediatly cut fuel and revs will drop. then if you release it may pick back up and idle, or die.

it sounds as if you are also suffering from a vac leak or too.
as far as i know the MOPs are the same, but theres a good way to find out

i am the one that screw up my mop, i put a turbo water pump and the outlet neck hit the MOP motor and cracked it and bent the shaft... but unlike listening to everyone and PHYICALLY PULLING IT OFF AND LOOKING AT IT FOR MYSELF. i ignored it and kept going...

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

My car wont stay idling longer than 3 seconds. It must be something unrelated. And for liek 357y6w45th time I'm 99.9% positive it's not a vac leak.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

O2 sensor at the computer became severed from the harness. I resoldered it and it started right up. Blew it's normal white smoke and went through the cold start. Deflooded itself and runs good. It is pulling significantly less vacuum at idle than it used to. Compression test in a couple hours when the rain lets up.

Street_Knight

Limp mode can happen for ALOT of reason's. But you weren't experiencing it. Man I screwed up that spelling....
02 sensors can make your life hell.
When you get her running, let her idle for a bit bro. No o2 sensor....Running nice and overly rich.
Let her idle and burn that crap out yeah.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

i had many codes but only MOP failer caused limp mode.
what are your sources that say limp is caused by "ALOT" of other reasons?
According to the FSM( the only thing for sure these days)
fail safe for MOP failer: ignition timing fixed injection amount fixed (limp mode)
no other has those listed. so yeah keep your mouth shut