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It starts fine, then stalls, if i keep starting it and let it warm up a little, it will have an eratic idle for some time, then it will either stabilise or stall. Everytime i hit the gas, it does this.
I changed the TPS yesterday since mine was throwing a code, set it to 1K ohm, before that it would not idle at all, and now it does what you see in the videos.
Vacuum leak maybe? apray starter fluid around, see if the idle changes.
I checked yesterday, nothing apparent. I did it with a propane torch. I'm gonna bring the car in the garage and recheck. I'm gonna remove all emission related stuff at the same time.
I checked yesterday, nothing apparent. I did it with a propane torch. I'm gonna bring the car in the garage and recheck. I'm gonna remove all emission related stuff at the same time.
That's honestly a terrible idea. I can't tell you how many threads we see where people have starting/running problems after removing emissions, and you're already starting with an issue. I would highly suggest nipping this in the bud before proceeding to strip the engine bay.
That's honestly a terrible idea. I can't tell you how many threads we see where people have starting/running problems after removing emissions, and you're already starting with an issue. I would highly suggest nipping this in the bud before proceeding to strip the engine bay.
Thanks for the tips. On my 84, once i removed all emissions related vacuum it fixed my running problems, that's why i was thinking of doing the same. I'm making room in the garage right now so i can put the car inside and inspect all the vacuum hoses, to try and find a broken/cracked one
I'm a fan of deleting all that crap, don't get me wrong, but I just think you're going to compound your issue. Inspecting it further is a good plan Good luck.
Thanks! Upon checking, all thoses vacuum lines are now more like hard lines than vacuum lines, starting fluid don't make the engine fluctuate but still all the lines are not looking good, i'm probably gonna start there
After re-reading and re-reading, i gave it another try today.
I confirmed that my TPS was okay one more time, 1002 ohm is pretty near perfect to me
Still wasn't working. Then according to the FSM, i tried adjusting the idle mixture screw, on the passenger side. I put the jumper in place, did the procedure, then once everything was done and i removed the jumper, my idle was now stable!
Now i'm idling at 800-850 RPM, and no more stalling and bouncing! I tried to adjust to 750 by unscrewing the idle screw on top of the manifold, but at 750RPM there is a little hesitation and once every 4-5 times the car will stall going from WOT to idle. I guess 850 is still pretty damn good compared to what it was yesterday! I went for a test drive, no more stalling every corner!
If you look at this picture, the idle screw is maxed, is that normal?
The factory setting is PLUS or MINUS 10 percent of the stated idle.
So if your idle is 800 and you are really at 880 then you are still good..
*see that screw right beside the Pressure sensor?(variable resistor).
May sound wierd but I farted with that thing once on my car and it seemed to straighten up a crappy idle situation.
It is supposed to be covered with a little "goo" from the factory..but hey.,.we are GUYS!..we gotta see what that crap is hiding...lol!
The factory setting is PLUS or MINUS 10 percent of the stated idle.
So if your idle is 800 and you are really at 880 then you are still good..
*see that screw right beside the Pressure sensor?(variable resistor).
May sound wierd but I farted with that thing once on my car and it seemed to straighten up a crappy idle situation.
It is supposed to be covered with a little "goo" from the factory..but hey.,.we are GUYS!..we gotta see what that crap is hiding...lol!
Mine had nothing over it, so i guess last owner played with it, but hey that's part of why i got such a good deal on this baby!
Glad to hear you got it sorted. A perfect example of when reading prevails! lol
I was halfway there tho :p
The original TPS was glitching like crazy ( 2.2k at minimum and was going from there to OL to 22k to OL to 7k when fully pressed)
The new one corrected this, i was just not aware of the idle mixture screw at this point :p
FSM and ProDemand plus this forum was of a great help!
I've also fixed my headlight switch (no light in dash) and i'm in the process of removing the CPU to fix my horn problem.
But all in all it was a great deal! I paid 1800$ CDN for this 86 FC, 4 seater leather, sunroof, 145 000KM on the clock, but was not running because of this and clutch needed bleeding