Bad Coolant Seal on Fresh Rebuild???
08-11-07, 01:32 PM
#1
Bad Coolant Seal on Fresh Rebuild???
So here's the scoop. Ive spent pretty much all summer rebuilding my car. The car is a S4 NA. I used the Atkin's S4NA Master kit and followed their video for the entire process.
I rebuilt my motor because of a bad coolant seal that even damaged my front iron. I made sure to replace my front iron with a used but good front iron. I used hylomar on the new coolant seals and torqued everything down to spec.
Also, all new hoses and a new OEM thermostat.
It wasnt until yesterday that I got the car started. I filled the coolant as best as I could while trying to get as much air out of it as possible. It started up on the first nice hill I could find and idled nicely around 1500. I let it idle for an hour or so and then took it for a drive.
I drove around for a good hour before I noticed the temp guage was climbing. I managed to get to about 2/3 up the S4 guage. I pulled over immediately.
Cut to now. My car starts on a dime with no smoke or coolant smell. It does however like to push water to the overflow without pulling it back. I did the rad cap test and got a couple bubbles, but with 45 miles on a new rebuild, would there still be air in the system??
Also, Would the air in my heatercore and residual air in the motor have caused my car to overheat in the first place?
This is very aggrivating since I have thrown so much time and money into this car.
I rebuilt my motor because of a bad coolant seal that even damaged my front iron. I made sure to replace my front iron with a used but good front iron. I used hylomar on the new coolant seals and torqued everything down to spec.
Also, all new hoses and a new OEM thermostat.
It wasnt until yesterday that I got the car started. I filled the coolant as best as I could while trying to get as much air out of it as possible. It started up on the first nice hill I could find and idled nicely around 1500. I let it idle for an hour or so and then took it for a drive.
I drove around for a good hour before I noticed the temp guage was climbing. I managed to get to about 2/3 up the S4 guage. I pulled over immediately.
Cut to now. My car starts on a dime with no smoke or coolant smell. It does however like to push water to the overflow without pulling it back. I did the rad cap test and got a couple bubbles, but with 45 miles on a new rebuild, would there still be air in the system??
Also, Would the air in my heatercore and residual air in the motor have caused my car to overheat in the first place?
This is very aggrivating since I have thrown so much time and money into this car.
08-11-07, 01:45 PM
#2
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Did you replace the thermostat with a new OEM one? I noticed after I had my engine sitting for a long time, without coolant that after I got it back up and running with coolant, it would overheat real bad and this was due to the thermostat
Its always possible for a coolan seal to be installed incorrectly or for it to move out of place when you are fitting the irons back together but I think there would be more to see then just a high temp.
Its always possible for a coolan seal to be installed incorrectly or for it to move out of place when you are fitting the irons back together but I think there would be more to see then just a high temp.
08-11-07, 02:00 PM
#3
1) it's hard to fully bleed a rotary cooling system when you're starting from scratch. You need to open your heatercore by turning the heat on and drive around for a few minutes that way to flush most of the air out. The temp probably started climbing because there was air, and not enough coolant, in the system.
2) go with a new thermostat
3) be sure all plastic ducting is present on the nose of the car...underbelly pan and 2 panels by the hood latch.
4) be sure the clutch fan is moving a lot of air when you rev the engine up to 1500-2000.
2) go with a new thermostat
3) be sure all plastic ducting is present on the nose of the car...underbelly pan and 2 panels by the hood latch.
4) be sure the clutch fan is moving a lot of air when you rev the engine up to 1500-2000.
08-11-07, 02:27 PM
#4
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I didn't know that the heater core had a valve in it. I thought when you put the heat on, it just redirected the blown air through the heated core and when you turned the heat off it would redirect the air away from the heater core..
Hmm, learn something everyday.
Hmm, learn something everyday.
08-11-07, 04:47 PM
#5
I bought a new thermostat in March after my coolant seal went before the rebuild. It maybe had a weeks worth of driving before I took it out. Also, the plastic ducting is NOT infront of the radiator, so that may be why it now runs a hair above 1/4. Ive put nearly 50 miles on the rebuild. Would there still be air in the system? Ive bled and refilled it maybe 5 times.
Also, I know I installed the seals correctly. Used plenty of Hylomar, none of them twisted or white visible.
Ill trying running the heater core some more and see if I can get it all out.
Also, I know I installed the seals correctly. Used plenty of Hylomar, none of them twisted or white visible.
Ill trying running the heater core some more and see if I can get it all out.
08-11-07, 11:31 PM
#6
If you run it for a couple of days and can't get it full, I'd begin to worry. It's quite possible you have a leak somewhere as well...sometimes hoses and joints don't leak until the heat and pressure has built up in the system, and then they slowly dribble in a spot that's not very visible.
About 20% of the FCs that get brought to me for rebuild/install, have a leaky weep hole on the waterpump upon restart. It drips out from behind the WP pulley, onto the front cover, and sometimes it doesnt even hit the ground before it burns off, so it's hard to spot sometimes.
About 20% of the FCs that get brought to me for rebuild/install, have a leaky weep hole on the waterpump upon restart. It drips out from behind the WP pulley, onto the front cover, and sometimes it doesnt even hit the ground before it burns off, so it's hard to spot sometimes.
08-12-07, 01:58 AM
#7
Yeah, the waterpump thing actually happened to me last week. Thats why I didnt get it started until yesterday. I put a brand new water pump on it before starting. Im going to wait untill tomorrow morning to try coolant seal test(s) on Rotary Resurrection's site. I already tried the bubble test but Im not sure the system was bled completely (heater core and all)
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08-12-07, 11:26 AM
#8
So, this morning I turned the car over without the EGI fuse and pulled the plugs. There was no antifreeze on the plugs from what I could tell. Also I let the car idle with the rad cap off (and heater running) and I could see 1 tiny bubble every couple seconds. Thats also only the second time Ive ran the heater. Im kinda stumped now. It still seems to be pushing more coolant to the overflow than normal and not retrieving it back after cool down.
Does anyone have any good links to the "pixie dust" fix? If I do have just a small leak, and with my seals being new, I feel I would be a good candidate for this. I would be willing to rerebuild it if I had the time, but I start school in a week and a half.
Does anyone have any good links to the "pixie dust" fix? If I do have just a small leak, and with my seals being new, I feel I would be a good candidate for this. I would be willing to rerebuild it if I had the time, but I start school in a week and a half.
08-12-07, 06:53 PM
#10
mmm doritos
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yeah put new caps on it and if that dosent work put a new water pump on and see if that works https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/coolent-flowing-into-overflow-tank-677132/
08-13-07, 11:39 AM
#11
My cap is maybe 5 months old. That was the second thing I replaced when my coolant seal failed before the rebuild. It is a Mazda rad cap I bought from Mazdatrix along with my OEM thermostat. Also, I installed a brand new water pump a few days ago. I found a link the the the stop leak fix on rotary res's site, but the link was dead. Im really hoping its not my coolant seal again, but I dont know what else to look at.
08-13-07, 06:29 PM
#14
Yeah, has anyone had problems with the OE rad? Mine is only a maybe 6 months old, but it sat unused for 3 while I rebuilt my motor. The same goes for my thermostat. As for getting an aftermarket temp guage, My factory guage is reading about where it always has, maybe a bit higher. This is also with a very large street port (Pineapple template)
08-14-07, 07:18 PM
#18
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www.rotaryresurrection.com Has a Stop leak Fix(look under Tech)..BUT I don't think that is your Problem..I think you still have Air in the system..
08-14-07, 10:06 PM
#19
Just went for a short drive. Started getting hot and the overflow was full. I dont know whats up. Im going to take it to a mechanic with a pressure tester since I dont have the cash. I found the tech article for the coolant seal fix in the 3RD GEN tech for future reference 
08-17-07, 02:17 PM
#20
My coolant seals are for sure leaking. My engine has been hard to start and smokes at first. I was wondering, since I reused all my housings and irons (except for the one that cracked), could they be warped from overheating it a few months before the rebuild?
08-17-07, 04:29 PM
#23
Its possible that a coolant seal got pinched during the assembly, it happens.
Thats why people ghetto rig testers to bolt to the water pump inlet to test the system before installation........and also why Pineapple racing now sells them
Sorry about your luck - believe me - I know allllll too well about R&I'ing fresh rebuilds.........
Thats why people ghetto rig testers to bolt to the water pump inlet to test the system before installation........and also why Pineapple racing now sells them
Sorry about your luck - believe me - I know allllll too well about R&I'ing fresh rebuilds.........
08-17-07, 10:19 PM
#24
My pressure cap is practically brand new and OEM. I would try a new one, but Ive started getting white, sweet smoke on start up and it idles irratically for a few minutes.
Hopefully, It is just a pinched seal. I rebuilt the motor myself, and it was my first build. The housings "looked" okay, but I have little experience inspecting parts. I block sanded the ends of the housings and irons with 200 grit to clean off the crap but i doubt I did any damage that way.
I should have had the irons lapped when I had them out, but, being 19 and in college, my funds are limited. Can the edges of the housings be resurfaced? Being aluminum, Id figure theyd be more prone to warpage than the irons.
The used iron I bought to replace my cracked front iron was of unknown mileage, but looked useable. That is one source of question. Im leaving for school in 5 days, so, unfortunately, it wont be until Christmas break before I can rip this thing down again.
Hopefully, It is just a pinched seal. I rebuilt the motor myself, and it was my first build. The housings "looked" okay, but I have little experience inspecting parts. I block sanded the ends of the housings and irons with 200 grit to clean off the crap but i doubt I did any damage that way.
I should have had the irons lapped when I had them out, but, being 19 and in college, my funds are limited. Can the edges of the housings be resurfaced? Being aluminum, Id figure theyd be more prone to warpage than the irons.
The used iron I bought to replace my cracked front iron was of unknown mileage, but looked useable. That is one source of question. Im leaving for school in 5 days, so, unfortunately, it wont be until Christmas break before I can rip this thing down again.
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