Backfiring/Timing Issue
#27
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Trying to get a reading off the black/green wire, no voltage. Am I doing something wrong? Also, could a slightly erratic idle be caused by lack of back pressure in the exhaust(running a straight pipe setup atm)?
#29
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Green/Red wire currently at .56v. Now if I'm understanding correctly, set to the car to on, disconnect the plugs, turn screw until voltage reads 1v?
Last edited by Phyxs; 07-03-12 at 08:18 PM.
#30
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Red meter lead backprobing the G/R wire and Black meter lead to a ground such as the alternator housing or the negative battery terminal. W/key to ON and the engine as warmed up as possible. Not just started. Not close to being fully warmed, but as warm as the engine is going to get. And yes, the TPS needs to be plugged in or it won't put out any voltage because it won't be powered.
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Alright I finally got some time to get it done. Took a bit of work to back probe that damn connector but I got it. Initially was at .82v, 1 turn of the screw and the volts are now at exactly 1.000! Idle is sitting around 950-1000 at this point, but smooth as I've ever heard it! No backfiring while driving or at idle, no hesitation, no nothing! So amazing!
Now that it is set properly, just a quick question. I know by specs it should be at 750 instead of 950, could that be from the lack of back pressure or from the port on the engine?
And once again, Thank you so much Satch! You are truly an amazing guy!
Now that it is set properly, just a quick question. I know by specs it should be at 750 instead of 950, could that be from the lack of back pressure or from the port on the engine?
And once again, Thank you so much Satch! You are truly an amazing guy!
#33
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Alright I finally got some time to get it done. Took a bit of work to back probe that damn connector but I got it. Initially was at .82v, 1 turn of the screw and the volts are now at exactly 1.000! Idle is sitting around 950-1000 at this point, but smooth as I've ever heard it! No backfiring while driving or at idle, no hesitation, no nothing! So amazing!
Now that it is set properly, just a quick question. I know by specs it should be at 750 instead of 950, could that be from the lack of back pressure or from the port on the engine?
And once again, Thank you so much Satch! You are truly an amazing guy!
Now that it is set properly, just a quick question. I know by specs it should be at 750 instead of 950, could that be from the lack of back pressure or from the port on the engine?
And once again, Thank you so much Satch! You are truly an amazing guy!
If the engine is streetported it would need a little higher of an idle to compensate, and will tend to be a little jumpy
#34
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If you want to try to drop the idle some you would jumper the Initial Set Coupler and then play w/the Idle Adjust Screw on top of the Dynamic Chamber. After playing w/this screw you'll have to recheck the TPS once again, but make sure the engine is completely warmed when doing both of these things. Also, if you can't lower the idle then press upwards on the throttle linkage at the front of the throttle body and see if this lowers the idle. If it does then the Fast Idle Cam needs to be adjusted or the throttle cable or the cruise control cable is in need of adjustment. And I guess it depends on the size of the porting maybe as far as it causing a higher idle, but not really sure about that.
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