Backfires problems - FC Turbo
09-29-13, 01:28 PM
#26
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Are you talking about the fuel relay under the dash? A poor ground could also cause it to make a noise. You can jumper a wire from the Black ground wire to the Brown ground wire. The Brown wire provides the ground to the relay w/the car running. The Black wire is a constant ground and you can borrow off of this ground to see if that's your problem.
09-29-13, 02:13 PM
#27
No, its the Fuel Pump Relay & Resistor. The voltage that makes its way to the pump comes from the relay under the dash and passes through the Resistor Relay under the air filter before arriving at the pump itself. There is a coil within the Resistor Relay which helps determine how much voltage the pump receives. During full throttle driving the relay receives a signal from the ECU to bump up the voltage to the relay otherwise the relay passes less voltage to the fuel pump. Your clicking issue could be caused by the relay itself or the signals being sent to the relay. You can simply bypass this relay by unplugging it and jumpering one of the Blue/Red wires to one of the Blue wires.
If you want to investigate the condition of the relay you need to make sure the B/W wire at this relay is receiving constant voltage w/key to on. The B/W wire comes from the Main Relay (relay is located near the trailing coil and has two plugs to it). The Green/Red wire at the Resitor Relay comes from the ECU and this is the signal wire to cause this relay to boost voltage to the fuel pump. It should not have a ground signal on it w/the car just idling but has the ground when the engine is under heavy load (stomping on the gas pedal). And then you have the two Blue/Red wires coming from the fuel relay under the dash which supplies the voltage to the Resistor Relay that ends up being sent to the fuel pump.
If you want to investigate the condition of the relay you need to make sure the B/W wire at this relay is receiving constant voltage w/key to on. The B/W wire comes from the Main Relay (relay is located near the trailing coil and has two plugs to it). The Green/Red wire at the Resitor Relay comes from the ECU and this is the signal wire to cause this relay to boost voltage to the fuel pump. It should not have a ground signal on it w/the car just idling but has the ground when the engine is under heavy load (stomping on the gas pedal). And then you have the two Blue/Red wires coming from the fuel relay under the dash which supplies the voltage to the Resistor Relay that ends up being sent to the fuel pump.
11-04-13, 01:46 PM
#28
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Hi everybody,
My solenoids and fuel pump relay + resistor were "claping", so I looked on the wiring diagrams and saw that they receive +12V from the main relay. I controlled the voltage at this place and it was good and constant. So I took another look to the wiring diagrams and saw that the only possible issue was the ECU or the harness... and..
I finally found the problem! There was a poor/bad electrical contact (don't know if that's the right word) on the ECU harness. I juste have to touch the wires near the ECU plugs and the engine runs well again. I just need to fix it now :P
Thanks a lot for your help!!
My solenoids and fuel pump relay + resistor were "claping", so I looked on the wiring diagrams and saw that they receive +12V from the main relay. I controlled the voltage at this place and it was good and constant. So I took another look to the wiring diagrams and saw that the only possible issue was the ECU or the harness... and..
I finally found the problem! There was a poor/bad electrical contact (don't know if that's the right word) on the ECU harness. I juste have to touch the wires near the ECU plugs and the engine runs well again. I just need to fix it now :P
Thanks a lot for your help!!
11-04-13, 04:20 PM
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I didn't figured it out yet, but I don't think it's this wire because it affects more than just the fuel pump relay & resistor. Maybe it's one of the ECU ground. What do you think?
I will have ton spend more time on it ;-)
I will have ton spend more time on it ;-)
11-04-13, 04:24 PM
#31
start by removing the connectors and inspecting for corrosion. if they are corroded some contact cleaner and clipping them/unclipping them a dozen times or so should do the trick, but you'd have to figure out where the water is coming from and fix the leak.
11-04-13, 04:32 PM
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I checked already. Connectors are like new, but maybe one of the female plug is too open? Or is it possible that one wire is cracked because of the turbo heat? I will check wire by wire
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