HAILERS

I don't see why the fan would make a difference. The TPS uses a ref voltage of 5vdc put out by the computer and I would have though that that figure would have stayed the same.

I don't quite under stand you voltge reading. You didn't leave it at .631 did you? You adjusted it to approx 1vdc I would have thought.

About the tps and the lights/ground signal coming and going at the check connector: When the tps is adjusted right, the ECU will put a GROUND on the Relief Solenoid and take it off the Switching solenoid.

That is what is being represented by the LED lights coming and going at the tps check connector (the Green, three socket connector).

Look at the wiring schematic for the EGI EMISSIONS and the tie of the Relief and Switching solenoids to the tps check connector.

I'd bet I could set a tps by putting my fingers on the Relief and Switching solenoids and adjust til I feel them click on/off.

matticakes

I did leave it at .631 because the resistance method reads correctly. From my reading of this board the voltage method CAN be thrown off by some faulty electrical related issue. Since i was getting such a huge difference in correct readings from one method to the next i figured id put ADDITIONAL strain on the electrical system by tripping the electrical fan (by removing its connector on the thermo switch). This proved that adding additional electrical strain further threw off my voltage reading at idle.

What is wrong with my electrical system? How can i verify the solenoids that the tps controls at idle are beng managed correctly?

HAILERS

Well, I took my advice in my last post.

I fully heated the engine up.

Turned the tps screw virtually all the way in.

Slowly turned it counterclockwise til I heard a CLICK. Kept turning it counter clockwise til I heard another CLICK.

Then turned it clockwise til I heard it CLICK again. Done.

I put a meter on the green/red wire. Result: 1.06 vdc. Started the engine: 1.02 vdc

The CLICK above is the sound of the Relief and Switching Solenoid coming and going.

I even checked it with the LEDS and came to the same result. Approx 1vdc which 1.02 volts qualifys (qualifies?).

Don't get carried away with the tps. Set it to approx 1vdc with a meter with the engine HoT and the engine idling.

Have I told you about the tps setting method using the two vacuum input lines to the ACV? I thought not. It's redundant to the LED light/clicking of the solenoid methods.

matticakes

I guess its also within the realm of possibilities that my multimeter is WAY OFF.

Im not really getting carried away with the tps, id like to "confirm" its set properly and move on. It seems like theres 3 ways to do it, 1 of which im good, one of which im way off, and one which i havent tried (lights).

johnnyg

Just make a light thingy and call it a day! It's simple and perfectly accurate because it reports what the ECU is 'thinking', which is more important than the voltages coming out of the TPS.

matticakes

i did the light tps check. Adjusted it until 1 light lit. Pumped the throttle, etc. When i went back and checked via resistance it was 1.274. Multimeter?

Again, the problem at hand is a low, sometimes rough, idle...

johnnyg

Without reading back through the whole thread (which I should probably do), have you checked the operation of the fast idle cam? Is the ACV still on your car? If so, you should replace the check valve. That made a big difference with the quality of my car's idle and it was cheap and easy to do. Other than that, a vaccum leak is still a big possibility.

HAILERS

The engine MUST be HOT/VERY WARM when you set the tps due to the fast idle cam/thermowax etc.

matticakes

yes, the engine is fully warmed up...