RustX7

Is it seriously necessary to drain the coolant if I'm going to remove the BAC? Can you just clamp off the hoses and replace what little coolant you lose after... or will they not clamp right or something?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

At least on my TII the coolant "coupler" and be removed from the BAC with the screws, without removing the coolant lines. The lines are high enough, you probably won't loose much any way.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Yes, it can be done without draining the coolant, however if you're going to run the line under the intake manifold from the outlet on the rear side iron to the waterpump, you're going to lose quite a bit.

RustX7

I'd just be removing because it may be broken and need replacing, so I wouldn't be re-routing anything... I'll definitely see if I can remove just the coolant coupler though, I didn't realize that could be done.

I think it may be broken because my idle bounces from 1300-1600. I disconnect it and the idle doesn't change, so I'm thinking it might be stuck open or something. Also going to try adjusting the TPS and doing the ECU grounding. I can't seem to find an intake leak...

SureShot

And, if you haven't already - beef up the bell housing to firewall ground.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

High bouncing idle has nothing to do with the BAC. The BAC isn't even doing anything at that RPM - don't just rip out stuff, try and understand it.

Anyhow, the only way you're gonna get that high of an idle is with your throttle body not fully closing. Most common is a stuck thermowax. Having the throttle not close fully will also result in not being able to properly adjust the TPS, which probably is the cause for the bouncing idle.

Dale